Sway bar disconnects

[thetrekkerguy]

I can,t seem to find anything here. But has anyone ever but sway bar disconnects on a 80? i was plating around with mine unbolted and gained a coulpe inches of flex in the back. Does any one know of a kit for it or should i just build some. If it had leave springs i would just remove the sway bar but that is not an option here.

Thanks Jason

 

[corsair23]

I am not aware of a kit but I've seen threads before of people that have made custom disconnects...

Some just remove them entirely...Me, I just live with the slightly less flex

 

[tlc81]

80 series disconnects

removing the swaybars altogether definely provide more flex, quite a lot actually, but also means alot more body roll at hwy speeds, enough body roll that my girlfriend complained.

I made a simple disconnect for my 80 series that cost maybe 20 bucks.
I thought about taking pictures and doing a thread with details but got lazy...

here is what I did, if you need more info let me know, I could take some pics I guess

REAR
1)remove bolt & nut that connects the sway bar to frame post (not sure of correct part name, when I say frame post I mean the vertical tubular post) Insert a baled linch pin (D style) or snapper pin will work also instead of the bolts and nuts.
2) back off the nut that holds the frame post in situ. Place post in vice or drill press, thread nut onto post, drill small hole (3/16") near *middle of threads. Back off nut now to remove any burrs from drilling and ensure proper thread alignment. Insert post back onto truck with 1/8" hairpin cotter pin.
*proper location of hole must be determined so sway bar is not sloppy, measure two or three times before drilling
Now to disconnect rear sway bar jump out of truck, remove two baled linch pins & two hairpins, **fasten sway bar to frame, put two tubular posts in your door panel.

FRONT (easier than rear)
1)remove bolt & nut that connects the sway bar to the axle. Insert a baled linch pin (D style) or snapper pin will work also instead of the bolts and nuts.
2) fasten sway bay up to frame out of way.
Now to disconnect front sway bar jump out of truck, remove two baled linch pins, fasten sway bar to frame & now drink your beer

notes:
1. to undo and reconnect sway bar the truck needs to be sitting level or close to it, otherwise the bushings apply too much pressure for the pins to be removed by hand/ I always try to remove on pavement.
2.I use a velcro straps to fasten the sway bars up to the frame but bunjys or strech cords could also be used.
3.I carry spare linch pins and hair pins just in case.
4. do not leave the linch pins and bushings on the sway bar when you disconnect, remove them and keep in the truck.


*************THIS IS A WARNING. ***************
** even though rear sway bar is sitting in horizontal position it is possible for it to rotate and jamb into ground esentially picking up the rear end of the truck. sway bar must be secured to frame.
I learned the hard way behind Harrison lake, all of a sudden a large noise from the rear end and the back end of the truck lifted 12" in the air. After I stopped to inspect there were two drag marks in the logging road for 30 feet and the sway bar had rotated all the way around behind the axles. there was now so much pressure on the swaybar mounts on the axle i could not undo the bolts. In order to extricate my self I had to drrive 100 more feet to a ditch (while dragging the sway bar) and bury the nose of the truck deep which took enough presure off the sway bar to allow me to unbolt it. believe it or not the sway bar was ok but the mounts on the axle were poached. Luckily a short while later this truck was written off by a kid in a pathfinder (all his fault) & I found another 80 series. So I did the same disconnect and it works really well. (now that I secure the sway bar to the frame

let me know...

 

[d0ubledown]

removing the swaybars altogether definely provide more flex, quite a lot actually, but also means alot more body roll at hwy speeds, enough body roll that my girlfriend complained.

I made a simple disconnect for my 80 series that cost maybe 20 bucks.
I thought about taking pictures and doing a thread with details but got lazy...

here is what I did, if you need more info let me know, I could take some pics I guess

REAR
1)remove bolt & nut that connects the sway bar to frame post (not sure of correct part name, when I say frame post I mean the vertical tubular post) Insert a baled linch pin (D style) or snapper pin will work also instead of the bolts and nuts.
2) back off the nut that holds the frame post in situ. Place post in vice or drill press, thread nut onto post, drill small hole (3/16") near *middle of threads. Back off nut now to remove any burrs from drilling and ensure proper thread alignment. Insert post back onto truck with 1/8" hairpin cotter pin.
*proper location of hole must be determined so sway bar is not sloppy, measure two or three times before drilling
Now to disconnect rear sway bar jump out of truck, remove two baled linch pins & two hairpins, **fasten sway bar to frame, put two tubular posts in your door panel.

FRONT (easier than rear)
1)remove bolt & nut that connects the sway bar to the axle. Insert a baled linch pin (D style) or snapper pin will work also instead of the bolts and nuts.
2) fasten sway bay up to frame out of way.
Now to disconnect front sway bar jump out of truck, remove two baled linch pins, fasten sway bar to frame & now drink your beer

notes:
1. to undo and reconnect sway bar the truck needs to be sitting level or close to it, otherwise the bushings apply too much pressure for the pins to be removed by hand/ I always try to remove on pavement.
2.I use a velcro straps to fasten the sway bars up to the frame but bunjys or strech cords could also be used.
3.I carry spare linch pins and hair pins just in case.
4. do not leave the linch pins and bushings on the sway bar when you disconnect, remove them and keep in the truck.


*************THIS IS A WARNING. ***************
** even though rear sway bar is sitting in horizontal position it is possible for it to rotate and jamb into ground esentially picking up the rear end of the truck. sway bar must be secured to frame.
I learned the hard way behind Harrison lake, all of a sudden a large noise from the rear end and the back end of the truck lifted 12" in the air. After I stopped to inspect there were two drag marks in the logging road for 30 feet and the sway bar had rotated all the way around behind the axles. there was now so much pressure on the swaybar mounts on the axle i could not undo the bolts. In order to extricate my self I had to drrive 100 more feet to a ditch (while dragging the sway bar) and bury the nose of the truck deep which took enough presure off the sway bar to allow me to unbolt it. believe it or not the sway bar was ok but the mounts on the axle were poached. Luckily a short while later this truck was written off by a kid in a pathfinder (all his fault) & I found another 80 series. So I did the same disconnect and it works really well. (now that I secure the sway bar to the frame

let me know...

WAY too much reading post up some pics n itll all make sense...

im actually surprised there isnt a product out there for d/c's. i guess its easy enough to fab one up for pennies. ive read people making their own, but i like to see pics..easier to copy

 

[alia176]

do a search on this topic as it has been covered to death in the past!

 

[Trailbus]

I'm using these on the front. Mine are the "T" handle double ball locking type & say PN MS17985C613 on them but I can't find them on their site.


https://www.avibank.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.hotlist

I also welded a tab with a hole dirlled in it to the frame just above the axle mounts so i can just pull the pins, swing it up and pin it up out of the way. These pins are strong. I've flexed numerous times without pulling the pins and they are still straight as new. Running on the same set over 4 years now.

 

[tlc81]

Trailbus, Those pics look nice. I will have to look for a set of those, on the front it would indeed be nice and quick.

I will also post some pics so less reading is req'd, try to do it this weekend... I don't want anyone getting headaches

I'm using these on the front. Mine are the "T" handle double ball locking type & say PN MS17985C613 on them but I can't find them on their site.


https://www.avibank.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.hotlist

I also welded a tab with a hole dirlled in it to the frame just above the axle mounts so i can just pull the pins, swing it up and pin it up out of the way. These pins are strong. I've flexed numerous times without pulling the pins and they are still straight as new. Running on the same set over 4 years now.

 

[tlc81]

Yo double down, how goes it?
I'll post some pics of what I did, it has worked well now for 3 or 4 years. I agree though there must be a kit out there, similar to all the heep kits?? maybe 80 series just aren't that popular? yeah right....

WAY too much reading post up some pics n itll all make sense...

im actually surprised there isnt a product out there for d/c's. i guess its easy enough to fab one up for pennies. ive read people making their own, but i like to see pics..easier to copy

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Personally, I just removed my swaybars...

 

[VCCruzr]

I'm using these on the front. Mine are the "T" handle double ball locking type & say PN MS17985C613 on them but I can't find them on their site.


https://www.avibank.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.hotlist

I also welded a tab with a hole dirlled in it to the frame just above the axle mounts so i can just pull the pins, swing it up and pin it up out of the way. These pins are strong. I've flexed numerous times without pulling the pins and they are still straight as new. Running on the same set over 4 years now.

I would like to see some pictures of the sway bar connected, and disconnected and pinned out of the way. Can you post 'em if you got 'em?

 

[Trailbus]

I'll try to get some tomorrow. Sucks getting home 30 minutes before sundown.

 

[ForealBoreal]

lets see some pictures. I want to do this on my truck

 

[alia176]

A quick search revealed two pics of the sway bar pinned out of the way (after disconnected) https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/22921-front-sway-bar-disconnect.html

I did the same thing and it works out well. However, in my case, I'm connecting the sway bar directly to the frame holder w/o the intermediate short piece as shown in the pic. Credit goes to LandcruiserPhil.

Here's a pic of my QD up front:

 

[ForealBoreal]

anyone have anymore shots?

 

[tlc81]

I took pics of connected last night, will take pics of disconnected set up this weekend while wheeling & then and post Monday sometime.
happy wheelin.

anyone have anymore shots?

 

[ForealBoreal]

I took pics of connected last night, will take pics of disconnected set up this weekend while wheeling & then and post Monday sometime.
happy wheelin.

Thanks!

 

[Trailbus]

finally got some pics of mine.I'd have to blame my tardines on rain, darkness, & memory (not all at the same time).

 

[Trailbus]

more:

 

[Trailbus]

and one with a cruiser key for size reference:

 

[ForealBoreal]

ok ok now i get it. I have to make a little bracket.

TLC81 i am still waiting on your slick design.

Thanks guys!