3FE Won't Run After Clunk - Realtime (1 Viewer)

[TrustyToyota]

Today, on the way to work about a block or two from my house I came around a corner and started to accelerate and felt a little shaking and then a pretty large clunk. The truck shut itself off and I coasted to the side of the road. I took a look under the hood, and everything looked normal at a glance, so I hopped in and turned it over to try to start it up again. It turned over fine, but wouldn't start. I pushed it closer to the curb, and thats where it is now.

The truck is a '92 with about 205,000 miles on the clock, stock with a new set of rear shocks, new power steering pump, newly rebuilt front axle, and a leaky heater hose replaced. My first thought was timing chain, but it turns out the 3FE doesn't have one of those. I'm pretty stumped for ideas, and searching has turned up little help.

Anyone have any advice or ideas of what I should check or tear into?

 

[jharris979]

Drive line vibration?
Motor vibration?
Did you go over a speed bump? (something loose?)
Were you low on gas? (sediment in the tank clogging the fuel filter?)

 

[Lka1988]

Broken motor mount? Believe it or not, a broken motor mount can kill an engine.

 

[TrustyToyota]

Drive line vibration?
Motor vibration?
Did you go over a speed bump? (something loose?)
Were you low on gas? (sediment in the tank clogging the fuel filter?)

I can't rule anything completely out at this point, but I believe it was a motor vibration. I was going about 5-10 mph, so I don't think the driveline would have killed the engine. There was nothing rough or loose on the road either. There is about a quarter tank, so I have my doubts on that.

 

[TrustyToyota]

Broken motor mount? Believe it or not, a broken motor mount can kill an engine.

I'll have to try and take a look, but wouldn't the truck still start up again if there was a busted motor mount?

 

[nikos]

1. Do you have check engine light
2. If so try to pull out the codes (Te1+E1 in diagnosis connector)
3. Check fuses

also in diagnosis connector connect +B to FP and check does your fuel pump starts, you should hear fuel flow in lines

It might be that a relay or fuel pump is busted..... or a connector that might go loose

 

[bhmmapping]

distributor cap?

 

[nikos]

distributor cap?

Might be also the crank position sensors in the distributor

first.

1.Fuel
2.Spark
Then Codes (if there will be any)

 

[jonheld]

You most likely lost a fusible link. Making the turn broke the contact and the "clunk" was the motor stumbling.

With the key in the ON position your "CHECK ENGINE" light should normally be illuminated. If it is not, then proceed with the EFI diagnostics on my website.

 

[TrustyToyota]

You most likely lost a fusible link. Making the turn broke the contact and the "clunk" was the motor stumbling.

With the key in the ON position your "CHECK ENGINE" light should normally be illuminated. If it is not, then proceed with the EFI diagnostics on my website.

I took a look, and with the key in the "on" position and the truck not running (because it won't ) the CEL lights up. Does that rule out the fusible link?

Broken motor mount? Believe it or not, a broken motor mount can kill an engine.

Looks like the motor mounts are still good.

distributor cap?

Is there an easy way of checking this? I talked to my dad who had one stick on his 40 a while ago, but all of the wires are still attached and it doesn't appear to have spun.

As far as codes go, all I got was 12, which was given because it didn't start after being cranked for over two seconds (if I'm reading the FSM explanation correctly). The CEL wasn't on before the incident either.

I'm running out of ideas for this turd, and the worst of it is that my '94 80 isn't on the road either because of some massive driveline vibrations... I guess I'm paying for only owning 14+ year old vehicles now. And I'm out of transportation until one of them is fixed .

 

[jonheld]

I took a look, and with the key in the "on" position and the truck not running (because it won't ) the CEL lights up. Does that rule out the fusible link?

Yes and no. There are 3 fusible links. Again, there is a flowchart type diagnostic on my website.

If CEL is on then EFI circutry checks good. You need to physically check for spark at this point. Pull a plug wire and plug and look with your eyeballs while someone cranks the motor. If no spark, then work backwards to the coil/igniter. There are tests for the ignition coil and distributor field coils in the FSM and on my website. There are no tests for the igniter other than replacement.

 

[voorland80]

My '91 FJ80 also "clunked" when it died. In my case, that was just the sound of the driveline slack kicking in when it died due to the EFI relay going bad.
I want to say EFI relay, but Jon knows his stuff. Do as Jon has instructed.

 

[TrustyToyota]

Yes and no. There are 3 fusible links. Again, there is a flowchart type diagnostic on my website.

If CEL is on then EFI circutry checks good. You need to physically check for spark at this point. Pull a plug wire and plug and look with your eyeballs while someone cranks the motor. If no spark, then work backwards to the coil/igniter. There are tests for the ignition coil and distributor field coils in the FSM and on my website. There are no tests for the igniter other than replacement.

Well, I have a project for the evenings now. Thanks Jon, I'm going to follow the chart and try to rule some things out. If anyone else has anything else, I'll take it. I'll take just about anything I can get at this point.

 

[TrustyToyota]

Ok, I checked the fusable links via the FAQ reference and I think they are all good:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...es-faq-item-recommend-keeping-copy-truck.html

So next step was spark. I pulled the second plug from the front of the engine and plugged it back into the wire, shorted it to the valve cover, had a friend turn it over, and no spark. The plug looked really bad, and the electrode was nearly gone, so I know I need new plugs too. I could smell fuel when I did that, so I've got the air and gas, just looking for the spark to complete the magic equation.

I think my next plan of action is to replace the cap and rotor on the distributor to see if thats the problem (I can only hope). I don't think they have been replaced in a long time given the condition of the plugs.

I was talking to a co-worker who said a good way of testing the coil was to put a spark plug on the end of the wire that comes from the coil to the distributor and turn it over while shorting the plug on the engine. If it sparks, that means the coil is working and is providing power to the distributor. What do you guys think, good idea, bad idea? Either way I think I'll order up a new cap and rotor and give that a try.

 

[jonheld]

I was talking to a co-worker who said a good way of testing the coil was to put a spark plug on the end of the wire that comes from the coil to the distributor and turn it over while shorting the plug on the engine.

A good way of testing the coil would be to follow the test procedure in the FSM.

 

[TrustyToyota]

A good way of testing the coil would be to follow the test procedure in the FSM.

Man, that would just make too much sense. Ok, so to the FSM for the test. I should know by now that that is the place to go first. I think working on the truck in the Minnesota cold is getting to me.

 

[TrustyToyota]

Alright, now for the bad news...

I replaced the rotor and cap on the distributor because I knew they were old and weren't helping the starting situation. It still wouldn't start, so I went ahead and replaced the coil since the FSM test failed (where you short the wire directly from the coil). Still no start. Then I was thinking ignitor. I didn't have an ignitor, and it was late and dark and I was about to call it a night, so I grabbed a flashlight and took a quick peak under the front of the truck. Here is where the really bad news starts. I found a big ol' fresh puddle of coolant. I just replaced a leaky heater hose and thought my coolant leaks were done for. Thats not even the really bad part. I was getting concerned that I had missed the most simple test of all, and turns out, I did. I cranked the engine and managed to peak around the open hood to see the motor not turning........

So, I have now concluded I am an idiot and that I have been chasing an obvious problem.... No spark because the frickin engine isn't turning.

My question is, now what? Is the motor shot? The starter turns and sounds just like the truck is turning over, but the motor doesn't turn.

 

[jonheld]

Please tell me how it is possible that you can mistake the sound of the engine turning over as compared to just the starter turning.

Please give a complete description of what's going on here.

Does the crank pulley turn when you engage the starter? The crank pulley is the lowest large 3 section pulley coming out of the bottom front of the motor.

 

[TrustyToyota]

Please tell me how it is possible that you can mistake the sound of the engine turning over as compared to just the starter turning.

Please give a complete description of what's going on here.

Does the crank pulley turn when you engage the starter? The crank pulley is the lowest large 3 section pulley coming out of the bottom front of the motor.

When I turn the key, the starter turns and it sounds/feels like the motor is turning. I guess I have never heard a starter turn with no motor, but this sounds exactly like it is turning the motor. I was by myself on this one, so when I turned the key, all I could really see was the fan and the top belt. I found a marking on one of the belts and remembered where it was before I turned the key. Then after turning the key, went back and the belt position appeared to be unchanged. I'm going to need a hand to actually see what is turning in there and what isn't so I'll have to get back to you on the crank pulley. The sound/feel is definately one of a turning motor and that is why it didn't even cross my mind to look at that.

 

[TrustyToyota]

Ok, just got back from looking at the truck.

When the starter is turned over, nothing visible on the front of the engine turns. No belts, pulleys, etc.

Even though nothing visible is turning, it still sounds as if the starter is turning the motor when the key is turned.

We pulled plugs and tried to turn the crank pulley by hand, but it wasn't going anywhere.

The coolant leak appears to be coming from the front of the engine bay (i.e. radiator) so I think the two issues are unrelated. If I get the thing running, I will take a closer look at the coolant leak.

I don't know what to look at next, but I think I need to get some local help. I'm going to try to possibly pull the truck to get some help from a local crusierhead before the snow comes and the city tows it to the impound lot.