Project 79.5

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Feb 26, 2007
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After many requests for a build thread I figured its about time to start one. This is my first build thread so bear with me a little. I'm not tooting my own horn I'm just trying to help others who want to go down a similar road.

I know there are a bunch of these trucks being built right now but I only know of one other one that is going on an 80 frame.

I'm in no rush to get mine done...as usual I have way to many irons in the fire.

Here's what I done so far.

Picked up the body in colorado...drove it back across country.
Stripped an 80 series down
Stretched the frame
Mounted the body on the frame.

I have all the driveline sitting on the shop floor...just waiting a few parts to arrive before I can mock it up.

I'm using a Cummins B3.3t/R151/splitcase.

I'm sure someone out there will argue that the cummins doesn't have enough power and the r151 is a weak tranny...but for the price I paid :flipoff2:. I have other options if this combo doesn't turn out the way I want.

For what its worth..the body sits on the frame pretty nicely. The back cab mounts almost line up with the mounts on the 80 frame. It provides a very good starting point

Here's a few pics of the progress.

Let me know what you think.
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Hey, that will be a nice set up.

But doing all this work I would do it right an look for an 80ty gearbox, having permanent 4x4 and a strong and reliable transmission. With the 4.1 Diffs from the automatic 80 bigger tires will work fine...

How did you stretch the frame? Any pics?
 
The r151 tranny I am using came from a 2007 hzj79. I know there are two version...the one from the mini truck is very different. It has a different output shaft length and the tail housing is different.

Stretching the frame was rather straight forward. There is only one place that you can really do it that makes sense. I used a inner sleeve an then made pieces that match the inner and outer channels of the frame. It really helps if you have access to a machine/welding shop. I did the work there b/c I don't have that kind of machinery in my shop.

I think I took a picture or two of the process...I'll post it up if I can find it.
 
Niiiiccccee 4x coil sprung ute ,
what size is the diesel motor you will be using
that back window is pretty cool to lean back through when grabing beers from the esky in the tray :D
 
Can you post a front on picture to show how far the wheels stick out with the wider 80 series axles? I am doing the same exact build on a 62 frame, but have access to an 80 frame and drive train. I was led to believe that stretching the 80 series frame was more difficult as there isn't a long section that is straight. Also, was discouraged from using the 80 series running gear as the axles would be much wider? Opinions? Please post up as many details as possible. I just may change focus and put my 79 series body on an 80 series frame as the four coils and permanent 4-wheel drive are a nice option. Along with a more modern drive-train.
 
thoughts on both chassis ,
If your investing a bit of money into this brand new rig and intend to keep it for a while a have access to a 80 series and its 4.5 and running gear i wouldnt think twice about changing over from a 2f or 3f leaf sprung 60 series, Using the 60 series bits i think would be going backwards unless your limited to cruiser supplies the 80 series would ride 100 times better in most aspects than the 60,say in another 15 years if you have the rig still 80 series parts will be easier to find than 60 series bit,using a 80 would be a lot more closer to a factory fzj79 than a 60, if you want leafs all around you might as well import a 1985 hj or fj 75 series

The latest 79 series have a fairly wider front diff and obviously wider front fenders to suit ,with a set of factory flare on the latest 79 seris front with 80 series diffs underneith i dont think you will be haveing to much wheel outside guard problems, check track front
2011 79series on std split rims
Wheel Base (mm) 3180
Length (mm) 5220
Width (mm) 1790
Height (mm) 1970
Track Front (mm) 1515
Track Rear (mm) 1420
2006 79 series round headlights
Wheel Base (mm) 3180
Length (mm) 5075
Width (mm) 1690
Height (mm) 1970
Track Front (mm) 1435
Track Rear (mm) 1420
92 fzj 80 on std split rims
Wheel Base (mm) 2850
Length (mm) 4780
Width (mm) 1900
Height (mm) 1915
Track Front (mm) 1575
Track Rear (mm) 1580
 
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Yesss Clint...that is why I used the 80 frame. I've always wanted to build a ute with coils at the 4 corners. I was gonna put a hilux body on this frame until I can across Proffitts bounty. I had the rolling chassis and a driveline laying around the shop...I was just deciding what to put on top of it.

Thats the best justification I've ever heard for a sliding rear window. I can't say I've never done it before...never while driving on public roads of coarse.;)

The engine is 3.3L hence the b3.3. FWIW I have buddy that is an engineer for cummins...he put this engine in a jeep and it goes pretty decent. He tweaked the engine to pull 130 hp on and 320 ft lbs of torque on the dyno and there was more room to go from there. So I feel it should work adequate in my ute.


msgrunt...I'll see if I have some pics showing the tires...I will tell you this...its not as much as everyone thinks. The front tires don't stick out at all. The rear stick out about 1.5 inches...or a better way to look at it..the sidewall and one tread. I had the stock 80 wheels on it and the threw a set of 4runner wheels on it that were layin around. They don't stick out quite as far. They are an inch narrower. I'm not sure about the back spacing I didn't measure. You could run a narrower wheel with a bit less offset and skinny tire and I think it would stick out less than an inch. If you are really worried about it and like flares that would solve the problem.

If you look at the 80 frame there is only one place that is straight that you can stretch it without a ton of work. Right in front of the rear links. You can cut it right where it straightens out and everything will line back up if you do it right. It took a long afternoon in the machine shop and I was done.
 
I'd have to agree with Clint...if you have them available, do some thinking on it. Don't let others think for you. Stick the bed on the chassis and see for yourself if you like it or not. It all boils down to what you want and how much money/time your willing to spend to get it. You get get a decent 85 hj75 imported for around 10-12k and save your self a bunch of work.

As far as full time 4wd...I'm not a fan of it. I don't even like push button 4wd. The old fashon lever is the only sure way for me.
 
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The r151 tranny I am using came from a 2007 hzj79. I know there are two version...the one from the mini truck is very different. It has a different output shaft length and the tail housing is different.

Stretching the frame was rather straight forward. There is only one place that you can really do it that makes sense. I used a inner sleeve an then made pieces that match the inner and outer channels of the frame. It really helps if you have access to a machine/welding shop. I did the work there b/c I don't have that kind of machinery in my shop.

I think I took a picture or two of the process...I'll post it up if I can find it.

looking forward to the pics...
we have been thinking about stretching the frame to fit a longer cabin...but decided against it.

the R151 from HZJ 79 and 78 has been troubeling quite some people here in Germany, not only the split and weak output shaft (Toyota changed that by now) but 5th and 4th gear too. I would try to avoid that gearbox as a long term solution...

If the axlel is getting to wide, you might bring in the wheels using Nissan rims (sorry pics showing J4 but the difference in the width too)
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and here standard setting 8" rim /alcoa
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those 35/10.5 simexs are wicked looking tires.
I wish they made that size more common. Hint tire manufacturers
 
I am now reconsidering my entire 79 build. I was originally discouraged from using the 80 series because of the axle width and lengthening the frame. Now I am not so sure that those are major issues. The width will not be such an issue because I plan on running a narrow tire. (better for the snow and terrain her in Massachusetts) The frame issues doesn't sound all that bad.

On the plus side I have a complete, running 1996 FZJ80 that could be a potential donor vehicle. Going the 62 series route EVERYTHING would have to be rebuilt or bought new. Meaning more money.

Swamprunner, Can you tell me how difficult mating the 79 body to the 80's frame was? I assume you had to fabricate all new body mounts? Just how close were the rear cab mounts? Did you cut off all the original 80 series mounts? Were you able to relocate the 80 series mounts and have them mate up to the 79 series cab and bed? Any pictures?

How many inches did you end up extending the frame?
You using the 80 series gas tank?
Does the 80 series radiator fit in the 79 front bib?

If I go this route I'll be using the stock 4.5, transmission and transfer case just to keep this simpler. Would love a diesel, but that would make an already expensive build even more expensive.

Your build looks great. On a side note, was it tough getting all that Jordanian dust off the body? They sure do look much nicer when not package for shipment...
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Proffitt's Cruiser in Colorado was/is selling them. They imported a small number from the Middle East, Jordan to be specific. My body was $7000.00 plus I paid another $900 to have it shipped from Colorado to the East Coast on an 18 Wheeler.

Not a cheap project, but I have always wanted a Landcruiser pick-up. And this will be very different from anything else in the States. We will be a small number on the road.
 
soenke...that is one of the best looking 45's I've seen in a while...I'm assuming its sitting on an 80 frame? wanna trade :)
I know there has been quite a few problems with the r151...I guess I need to reiterate that for the price I paid I'm willing to take the gamble. 2 of them appear to be almost new. They saw minimal use if any. It was one of the best craigslist scores in a long time. There's another member on here who got a 1hz from the same place for a song. If you lay off the stupid pedal the trans will hold up long enough.

I paid a bit less for my cab b/c it had a few scratches/dents. I also bought the Hino flatbed in the first picture from Jeremiah. I flew in...picked up my rigs, drove to Idaho to my family's place and went fishing/camping for a few weeks before driving back. I've driven/rode across the country many times and this time was definitely the longest. 65mph top speed, no radio, no cruise control, no frills=4 very long days. Did I mention I do most things the hard way...most people would have just paid for shipping.


msgrunt...It might be easier if you email or call me about the nitty gritty 80 details. I don't want to bore everybody with nit picky stuff. Send me a pm and we'll go from there.
That desert dust was a bitch...I was definitely cussing while removing it. Its still not all off.

I will see if I can find/get some pics of the frame.
 
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PM sent
 
Here's the only picture I snapped of extending the frame. The machine shop I have access to is quite a ways away (3 hrs) So I was in the get it done mode. The picture should give you the general idea of where we put the extention. If I remember right it was approx 13.5"

In pic of the body on the frame you can see where the extention is between the cab and the bed...I know its the least desirable location but there is no other choice in IMHO.
It really went pretty smooth...measure several times cut once kind of thing. After everything was tacked in place we pulled as many different measurement as possible and everything was spot on.

The bed and cab mounts aren't too bad. Like I said the rear cab mounts are really close. You have to drill/reem the hole in the cab a bit and it will them bolt on. I was pleasently surprised to see how well it fit on the frame and that it was basically dead on front to back. The bed mounts are faily simple the fall directly over the frame b/c it is so wide in the rear. The forward on is a bit offset and the so the bracket design has to compensate for that. The rear mount basically falls over the rear crossmember.
If you don't know how to fabricate/weld it might be better to let someone else do it. Fabricating everything is the easy part getting it all lined up and everything right is what is time consuming. I only had one or two good pictures to go off but I feel I got the transition from the bed to cab as good as possible.
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For others that may follow I took some pictures of where the 80 series frame is straight and I have to tell you, there isn't a lot of "straight" section of frame to extend, unless you cut back into the lower control arm mount. I guess you could cut further back into the control arm bracket as long as it is reinforced in the end. Swamprunner, where did they cut your frame? It doesn't look like they went into the control arm mount. I'm going to post this on the 80's forum to see if anyone there has extended an 80 frame
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The second picture really shows where the taper starts and it looks like the frame only gets straight an inch or so into the lower control arm mount.
 
I cut it right at the front weld...basically that forward line on your first picture. Everything behind that line is straight and you only need the rear to be straight. The cut is right at the start of the angle so the extension piece lines up fine. I will try to get some pictures this week to better illustrate how it was done.

FWIW... the machine shop where we did the extension is owned by my:princess:'s uncle. He has been in business for over 30 years and done dozens of frame extensions. We both agreed this was the best place to extend it and it turned out good. He just cut apart his brand new gmc 6500 to get the wheelbase he wanted so this one was a piece of cake.
 
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I wished we lived closer. I'll wait for the pictures. They will help a lot.
 

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