I finally managed to get a set of body mounts ordered from Roger Brown this past summer. Great guy to do business with. He answered all my questions quickly and helped me figure out what exactly I needed as far as mount and bushing sizes. For the sake of consistency, I ordered metric hardware as well. The stuff shipped quick and last weekend I was finally able to do the swap.
First, a few "before" pics:
Here's a sample of the hardware that comes with the 4Crawler (Roger's business) kit. The white piece is the UHMW 1" lift puck. I ordered the "Ultimate" (larger diameter) lift pucks. The washer shown actually goes on the head of the bolt, and the original OEM lower mount washer goes between the lower bushing and the nut. Also, the upper and lower bushings have a zinc coated steel sleeve in the middle, and separate for easy installation. No having to ram anything through the mount holes on the frame.
There are 12 total mount points on a 60/62; six on each side. They're all easy to find/access (you will have to pull carpet up though), save for the #6 mounts (the farthest back). With those, you have to access the bolt heads from underneath the truck via access panels on the body.
Passenger side (with a breaker bar on the bolt head):
Driver side, with the panel still in place:
To do the swap, we removed the nuts (there's a primary nut and a lock nut, both 14mm, on the factory bolts) from all 12 mounts, then used my buddy's (climber8483 on here) Hilift to lift up one side of the body, install the new mounts with lift blocks, set the new bolts in place, then slowly lowered the body back down, all the while making sure all the new hardware stayed in place evenly. Also important, we used a piece of 2x2 lumber with a notch cut along it (for the sheet metal seam) to distribute the pressure of the jack along the edge of the body without distorting the sheet metal. We used a couple of C clamps on the wood to keep it from splitting under the weight of the body. Worked like a champ.
Cruiser lean? Not sure what you're talking about here....
The passenger side set down on the new mounts:
I'll save you the in-depth on the driver's side, since it was exactly the same process as the passenger side. Overall it went smoothly. It definitely helped time-wise to use his air impact to get the nuts off of the factory hardware. I also sprayed them down with Kroil several times in the week leading up to the swap to help the nuts break free easier.
Here's the new passenger side #1 mount (farthest front near the radiator). You can easily see how the hardware is arranged, and where the factory lower washer is reused. As far as torquing the new nuts, I experimented with a couple different torque settings but in the end I just tightened them down enough to make the lower mount bushings bulge just slightly. The new nuts are nylon locking nuts, but just for the extra hold, I reused the factory lock nuts and just snugged them against the new nuts.
After all the mounts were done and buttoned up, I double checked the operation of both my tcase and tranny shifters. The tcase was just fine, but I did have to adjust the tranny shifter just a bit. Once you've gotten the adjustment procedure in the FSM down, it's a piece of cake. Took me 2 minutes and it's good to go.
Here are some "after" shots to show the difference in how the body sits over the frame.
Overall, the 1" of body lift should be just right for allowing 33" tires to tuck nicely into the wheel wells when flexing at full turn. Keep in mind I also have about 1.5-2" of spring lift thanks to full length Add-A-Leafs. I wouldn't recommend a body lift as the primary lift for a vehicle, but as a bit of fine-tuning the height of the body when it comes to tires fitting in wheel wells, I'd say it's a good option.
After driving the truck, the firmer poly body mount bushings make me feel every detail in the road. The truck definitely feels much more "solid", but as a trade-off, it does transmit alot more vibration from the road. If you don't mind that, it's definitely a worthwhile job.
First, a few "before" pics:
Here's a sample of the hardware that comes with the 4Crawler (Roger's business) kit. The white piece is the UHMW 1" lift puck. I ordered the "Ultimate" (larger diameter) lift pucks. The washer shown actually goes on the head of the bolt, and the original OEM lower mount washer goes between the lower bushing and the nut. Also, the upper and lower bushings have a zinc coated steel sleeve in the middle, and separate for easy installation. No having to ram anything through the mount holes on the frame.
There are 12 total mount points on a 60/62; six on each side. They're all easy to find/access (you will have to pull carpet up though), save for the #6 mounts (the farthest back). With those, you have to access the bolt heads from underneath the truck via access panels on the body.
Passenger side (with a breaker bar on the bolt head):
Driver side, with the panel still in place:
To do the swap, we removed the nuts (there's a primary nut and a lock nut, both 14mm, on the factory bolts) from all 12 mounts, then used my buddy's (climber8483 on here) Hilift to lift up one side of the body, install the new mounts with lift blocks, set the new bolts in place, then slowly lowered the body back down, all the while making sure all the new hardware stayed in place evenly. Also important, we used a piece of 2x2 lumber with a notch cut along it (for the sheet metal seam) to distribute the pressure of the jack along the edge of the body without distorting the sheet metal. We used a couple of C clamps on the wood to keep it from splitting under the weight of the body. Worked like a champ.
Cruiser lean? Not sure what you're talking about here....
The passenger side set down on the new mounts:
I'll save you the in-depth on the driver's side, since it was exactly the same process as the passenger side. Overall it went smoothly. It definitely helped time-wise to use his air impact to get the nuts off of the factory hardware. I also sprayed them down with Kroil several times in the week leading up to the swap to help the nuts break free easier.
Here's the new passenger side #1 mount (farthest front near the radiator). You can easily see how the hardware is arranged, and where the factory lower washer is reused. As far as torquing the new nuts, I experimented with a couple different torque settings but in the end I just tightened them down enough to make the lower mount bushings bulge just slightly. The new nuts are nylon locking nuts, but just for the extra hold, I reused the factory lock nuts and just snugged them against the new nuts.
After all the mounts were done and buttoned up, I double checked the operation of both my tcase and tranny shifters. The tcase was just fine, but I did have to adjust the tranny shifter just a bit. Once you've gotten the adjustment procedure in the FSM down, it's a piece of cake. Took me 2 minutes and it's good to go.
Here are some "after" shots to show the difference in how the body sits over the frame.
Overall, the 1" of body lift should be just right for allowing 33" tires to tuck nicely into the wheel wells when flexing at full turn. Keep in mind I also have about 1.5-2" of spring lift thanks to full length Add-A-Leafs. I wouldn't recommend a body lift as the primary lift for a vehicle, but as a bit of fine-tuning the height of the body when it comes to tires fitting in wheel wells, I'd say it's a good option.
After driving the truck, the firmer poly body mount bushings make me feel every detail in the road. The truck definitely feels much more "solid", but as a trade-off, it does transmit alot more vibration from the road. If you don't mind that, it's definitely a worthwhile job.
........ 
