Gutting a smog pump w/ pictures (1 Viewer)

[FJ502]

Gutting a smog pump w/ pictures - Real time help needed

Hey guys,

I'm doing a full desmog w/ headers on my 60 and have a question about gutting my smog pump.

Can you tell me what to gut?
1. Cylinder inside of pump attached to shaft
2. Bearings + washer held on by 6 allen heads (grease?)
3. Carbon smog sticks?
4. Carbon smog flaps
5. Do I plug this?
6. Do I plug this?
7. Friction point - if I don't take out the cylinder (#1) to I grease here?

Once I have this cleared up I will update this post so people gutting their pumps can use it as a resource.

 

[Matt60]

this looks like a giant mess. i bought a pulley from FJ40JIM 6 years ago for $100 and its works great.

with that being said good luck....

 

[FJ40Jim]

Good picture!

If the rotor (#1) is rubbing on the housing, then the pump is already bent, which could be a problem. W
When the pump eats a vane or a seal, it gets jammed between the rotor and housing at the "friction point", which bends one of them.

How to gut:
discard:
#3 carbon shoes,
#4 vanes,
#5inlet pipe,
#6 disch pipe.

Cut the center shaft off the rear plate. It's only there to hang the vanes.

Make sure that all carbons & leaf springs are removed from all slots of the rotor.

Clean things off, regrease bearing #2.
Bolt #2 bearing & shim to rotor.
Reassemble pump.

Done.

 

[FJ502]

Thank you for the info!

Do I need to plug the holes where #5 and #6 were? I was thinking I could weld disks over them so gunk doesn't get in there.

I think the friction @ #1 might be from dirt/ grime. If it doesn't clean up and move nice, then I'll order up one of your pulleys or run dual alternators.

Ohh, and if anyone wants my vanes or shoes I can mail them to you. They seem to be in great shape.

-FJ502

 

[FJ40Jim]

It is not necessary to plug the holes. If it would make you feel better to plug them, try using a couple of metric cup plugs.

Regardless of whether the holes are plugged, it is also a good idea to drill a hole in the bottom of the housing so any contaminant inside has an escape route.

 

[worldspan]

Good picture!

If the rotor (#1) is rubbing on the housing, then the pump is already bent, which could be a problem. W
When the pump eats a vane or a seal, it gets jammed between the rotor and housing at the "friction point", which bends one of them.

How to gut:
discard:
#3 carbon shoes,
#4 vanes,
#5inlet pipe,
#6 disch pipe.

Cut the center shaft off the rear plate. It's only there to hang the vanes.

Make sure that all carbons & leaf springs are removed from all slots of the rotor.

Clean things off, regrease bearing #2.
Bolt #2 bearing & shim to rotor.
Reassemble pump.

Done.

Thanks for your knowledge once again Jim. I needed to do this to my desmog cruiser for a while.

Thank you for the info!

Do I need to plug the holes where #5 and #6 were? I was thinking I could weld disks over them so gunk doesn't get in there.

I think the friction @ #1 might be from dirt/ grime. If it doesn't clean up and move nice, then I'll order up one of your pulleys or run dual alternators.

-FJ502

Fantastic post FJ502. This is a simple thread with a great labeled pic.

Regardless of whether the holes are plugged, it is also a good idea to drill a hole in the bottom of the housing so any contaminant inside has an escape route.

Jim - Is this weep hole big enough? What kind of contaminant are you thinking might be able to get trapped?
I just realized i put the weep on topJB welded it and it now has the same diameter hole in the bottom


I used the plasma cutter for the first time and made oblong circles and then drilled a hole at the top....now i have 2 peep holes on the pump in case i just want to peek inside w/o removing the back cover.

I highly suggest gutting the pump to see what's in there EVEN if it doesn't whine or make any noise. The inside of my quiet pump was trashed and i mean trashed but spinned well and never seized. The vanes were demolished and the vane 'holders' had bent and sheared off metal.....FUN!
Gut it, clean, reinstall or buy Jim's idler pulley. Luckily i have access to a garage with all sorts of tools (parts washer, plasma cutter, drills, workbench w/ a vice-grip, etc.) BUT YOU DON'T NEED A WORKSHOP......just makes life a lil easier.

Another shade-tree-mechanic job under my belt.

 

[Spike Strip]

Very nice pix and info - another one for the de-smog FAQ !

 

[worldspan]

Very nice pix and info - another one for the de-smog FAQ !

^^^^^x2

 

[Western Omelette]

Just replaced my seized pump with a used one on my rig, but am considering "the gut" too for between smog inspections. Thanks for thread and all great responses.

 

[FJHokie]

Sounds like the two options are either Gut the pump... or get a fly wheel.

No one has tried a smaller belt? or is this not an option, am I ignorant to something obvious?

 

[FJ40Jim]

A smaller belt is not an option.

The smog pump, or an adjustable idler pulley, is a requirement to tension the belt.

 

[swtft72]

Can you run a 2F with a devaned SP without desmogging? Newbie obviously.

 

[Seth S]

Can you run a 2F with a devaned SP without desmogging? Newbie obviously.

devaned would mean your main smog component would t work. So you would still pass the visible test but likely fail the sniffer.

 

[swtft72]

devaned would mean your main smog component would t work. So you would still pass the visible test but likely fail the sniffer.

What if I don’t need the smog but desmogging just seems like a huge headache for me to do, let alone my skills might not cut it either. Getting motor rebuilt next Spring and will be desmogged then, just trying to make it until then.

 

[Stumpalama]

What if I don’t need the smog but desmogging just seems like a huge headache for me to do, let alone my skills might not cut it either. Getting motor rebuilt next Spring and will be desmogged then, just trying to make it until then.

You need to remove or inactivate all the smog related equipment if you are going to gut the pump

 

[swtft72]

You need to remove or inactivate all the smog related equipment if you are going to gut the pump

Could I still use the original carb and distributor if I desmog motor?

 

[Stumpalama]

Could I still use the original carb and distributor if I desmog motor?

Yes. What year is your truck?

 

[swtft72]

Yes. What year is your truck?

1984

 

[Stumpalama]

When desmogging, later models benefit from a dizzy recurve and rejet/retune of the carb, apparently. Older trucks seem to not need it.

 

[swtft72]

When desmogging, later models benefit from a dizzy recurve and rejet/retune of the carb, apparently. Older trucks seem to not need it.

Older trucks meaning not fj60’s?