What is you all's opinion on the best solution for upgading rear brakes to disc on my 62?? Thanks
DISC BRAKES FOR REAR 60/62's
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Please keep solutions budget friendly...
4 runner from a junk yard......is that budget friendly enough.
gotta pay for that Hummer somehow...huh?
gotta pay for that Hummer somehow...huh?
I never understood what folks do with the emergency brake if they convert to rear discs. I thought about doing rear discs myself but I couldn't find an answer to this, so I just had my trusty old drum set-up rebuilt. It works great!
I'm curious; what is your motivation to do rear discs?
I'm curious; what is your motivation to do rear discs?
Tinker has worked with a mfg of a parking brake solution for a stock t/c.
The MAF kit uses S-10 calipers with 2.5" OD pistons. Far too big to get a decent brake bias w/o using a lot of the adjustment of a proportioning valve. That results in the potential for rear wheel locking in low pedal effort, low traction situations while possibly not being enough rear brakes in high pedal effort situations. Best is when you can use no p-valve or barely need any proportioning at all.
Yeah guys have these and use them, but they are not getting the most out of such a system and it is far from optimum. The calipers used on the rear of Ford Explorers would be a better match, but brackets are more complicated and there is probably a rotor width matching issue.
The MAF kit uses S-10 calipers with 2.5" OD pistons. Far too big to get a decent brake bias w/o using a lot of the adjustment of a proportioning valve. That results in the potential for rear wheel locking in low pedal effort, low traction situations while possibly not being enough rear brakes in high pedal effort situations. Best is when you can use no p-valve or barely need any proportioning at all.
Yeah guys have these and use them, but they are not getting the most out of such a system and it is far from optimum. The calipers used on the rear of Ford Explorers would be a better match, but brackets are more complicated and there is probably a rotor width matching issue.
I'd upgrade the front brakes before changing the rear to disks. Sounds complicated too haha
Besides 70%+ of the braking force is from the front brakes. College Physics is teaching me well!
Besides 70%+ of the braking force is from the front brakes. College Physics is teaching me well!
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Save the $$ on the rear disc's
I have had 4 60 series cruisers and was dumb enough to use the MAF kit on my 62. It cost $$$ and I did not feel the performance results were better than if I kept the rear drum set up and I never hooked up a parking brake.
Unfortunately to properly determine if the disc conversion makes a difference for stopping power one would need to do a real world comparison with stopping distances etc.
I just completely rebuilt the rear brakes on my current 60 all new hardware, new outboard parking brake return springs, new Italian made aftermarket wheel cylinders and they work great - remember that these drum brake / shoe set up is pretty massive and if in good condition work great.
One tip is to use NEW TOYOTA brake shoes, I know that they are twice the price as the relined Autozone ones but they make the job much much easier, the relined or rebuilt shoes are ALWAYS bent in some way and have to be muscled into place.
Also remember to completely change 100% of your brake fluid - I just used the German made Ate Blue brand, high heat blue colored brake racing fluid that I use im my Jetta - I dont know if its compatible with the Toyota so one should check with Ate first but time will tell - it should not make a difference - also because its blue in color you can really see the flush out working.
I have had 4 60 series cruisers and was dumb enough to use the MAF kit on my 62. It cost $$$ and I did not feel the performance results were better than if I kept the rear drum set up and I never hooked up a parking brake.
Unfortunately to properly determine if the disc conversion makes a difference for stopping power one would need to do a real world comparison with stopping distances etc.
I just completely rebuilt the rear brakes on my current 60 all new hardware, new outboard parking brake return springs, new Italian made aftermarket wheel cylinders and they work great - remember that these drum brake / shoe set up is pretty massive and if in good condition work great.
One tip is to use NEW TOYOTA brake shoes, I know that they are twice the price as the relined Autozone ones but they make the job much much easier, the relined or rebuilt shoes are ALWAYS bent in some way and have to be muscled into place.
Also remember to completely change 100% of your brake fluid - I just used the German made Ate Blue brand, high heat blue colored brake racing fluid that I use im my Jetta - I dont know if its compatible with the Toyota so one should check with Ate first but time will tell - it should not make a difference - also because its blue in color you can really see the flush out working.
I have the chevy s10 rear conversion and it's nothing special. I have a fabbed pkg brake cable. In hindsight I would not have upgraded to rear disks. Upgrade the front calipers and master cyl then adjust the rear drums properly and you should be perfect.
Can you weld? There's a way (involves some work, and you lose the ebrake) to use 60 series front rotors and calipers. You have to fab up and weld your own caliper brackets in place too. I've done the front 4Runner caliper and 80 series master cylinder upgrade, and I think with the 60 series calipers on the back that'd be a very effective and well balanced setup for four wheel discs.
That is a pretty common route FJ40 guys take, also Monte Carlo brakes.
Either the rotors or axles need to be machined for this to work, the center holes don't match the Cruiser axles.
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There are GM e-brake rear calipers that bolt on the same as the simple MonteCarlo front calipers.
BUT, the p-brake effectiveness sucks. It's not a question of adjustment or installation, they are just poorly designed mechanisms that barely work.
Better would be to use the big calipers (89 V6 4runner) in the front and solid rotors(81-85 minitruck) & small floating calipers (80's corolla) in the rear. Fab a p-brake on the t-case.
There are two different "Caddy" calipers that have been used. Those of the D'Villes have the 2-15/16" OD pistons (FMSI D52 pad number) and those from the Sevilles have the same 2.5" OD pistons as the S-10 & Monte Carlo calipers (FMSI D154 pad number). Both have the same p-brake mechanism in them. As Jim noted they are not great p-brake choices. The mechanism is immersed in brake fluid and is subject to both rust and junk build-up. Rare that you can make them behave properly for more than a year at a time. When the p-brake mechanism quits adjusting the service brakes slowly degrade in performance.
I do not like floating calipers, but those suggested by Jim would be worth looking into for an SF rear axle. Floating calipers can 'follow' the rotor as it moves in and out the tiny bit that the axle shaft is allowed to. That results in less pad knock-back which translates to less pedal stroke after a long period of no brake use.
Almost same setup .. I'm using 80 series MC and pretty happy with my brake setup ( considere I'm running 40" that really measure 38.5" )
X2 .. and that sucks .. I miss my e-brake every second that I'm in the trail ..
Here I go again shilling for The Streetrod Manufacturing Co. in Castle Rock, CO: they offer a complete rear Eldo (with park brake)/Monte Carlo (without) setup for a semi-floater rear: FJ-40+ Land Cruiser which is what Tapage and I think Spook have.
They also offer a transfer case mechanical disc park brake: FJ 60 Land Cruiser I have the prototype and it works great!
They also made me prototypes of mounts for 60/62 front discs on a FF rear, but I don't think they're offering them yet, maybe because I don't have mine on the ground yet.
And the commercial: they're great to work with! I receive no compensation for this shameless promotion, just really enjoy when people make good things and stand behind them.
They also offer a transfer case mechanical disc park brake: FJ 60 Land Cruiser I have the prototype and it works great!
They also made me prototypes of mounts for 60/62 front discs on a FF rear, but I don't think they're offering them yet, maybe because I don't have mine on the ground yet.
And the commercial: they're great to work with! I receive no compensation for this shameless promotion, just really enjoy when people make good things and stand behind them.
I agree with everything but the solid rotors, what's your reasoning behind using those?
Another thing worth noting is that the mount spacing Toyota uses for the front is also used by various other companies, I believe certain Jaguars come to mind as well as Wilwood offers calipers that fit. IIRC the mount spacing is 3.5". Mind you I'm using twin Wilwood master cylinders for the brake system and AN fittings so I've looked at options outside of OEM. I've heard some mini-truck guys use 80's Supra rear calipers that are floating but I don't know if they're any different from the Corolla pieces.
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Vented rotors are not needed on the rear. They give a slightly less solid pedal feel and add unnecessary rotating unsprung mass.
The advantage to the Supra rear caliper is they incorporate a P-brake. The disadvantage is they incorporate a P-brake (that will eventually be troublesome & ineffective).
Datsun also used the same caliper bolt spacing as the Cruiser calipers.
The advantage to the Supra rear caliper is they incorporate a P-brake. The disadvantage is they incorporate a P-brake (that will eventually be troublesome & ineffective).
Datsun also used the same caliper bolt spacing as the Cruiser calipers.
Ah okay I see what you're getting at, I agree with their use in the rear given the braking load distribution and that we're not dealing with a track car. For some reason I got stuck on thinking solids all around, guess it's just been a long day.
A third option would be an extra mechanical caliper on each rear in addition to whatever other caliper you run, Wilwood makes one that we have on a "street" Chevelle to match the 6 piston/4 piston combo. Obviously a second bracket would need to be made to fit it and considerations for rotor width would need to be taken.
A third option would be an extra mechanical caliper on each rear in addition to whatever other caliper you run, Wilwood makes one that we have on a "street" Chevelle to match the 6 piston/4 piston combo. Obviously a second bracket would need to be made to fit it and considerations for rotor width would need to be taken.