Trail fix for internal leaking MC?

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TLC Norway

woodwelder
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Apr 3, 2009
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18
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North of Norway
Okay, i'm not on the trail... but i'm heading out, and probably need a quick fix for the master, something that will last until i get my rebuild kit... it's on a HJ60, 2H, 81' model. I cant think of anything else than a leaking MC right now.
Pedal slowly depresses all the way, no visible leaks anywhere and no fluid level drop. Vacuum fully operational.
 
Brake system stop leak? Could it be leaking into the booster ( assuming you have one because of you mentioning vacuum )?

For the life of me I cannot think of what fluid goes in there. Is it brake fluid?
 
No it cant leak into the booster, no way of getting there. And no fluid drops.
I do have a booster, yea!
I'm talking about the Master Sylinder, i think it's the one failing.

Johnny, The booster is filled with nothing, vacuum!
 
Are rebuilt parts available in your part of the world? Last rebuilt MC I bought was only $27 US. If it goes to the floor I wouldn't wheel it till you fix it.

Tony
 
i just replaced my master the other day. only $50aus for the new master and 20 mins to fix it. i'd just wait till you got it fixed up
 
Yes it can leak into the booster but if you are not losing fluid than that is not happening,probably the rubber rings on the MC piston is shot.
 
Thanks guys for replies, but now i'm on the edge here, looking for a rig to rip one out of, my donors was pretty bad also...
So this is probably something that should be a in-car-spare for those who have not a rebuilt master.

The thing is, my GF i having birthday tomorrow, and i wanna go suprise her! my lj70 is not available to me now..
 
Has anyone tried some sort of stop leak product in the clutch system? It may help for a while and you're planning on replacing the MC later it won't matter if it doesn't work.
 
Has anyone tried some sort of stop leak product in the clutch system? It may help for a while and you're planning on replacing the MC later it won't matter if it doesn't work.

Not likely. the internal parts are just some rubber cylinders. usually they develop groves or rips, so there is no fix except replacing.
The stop leak stuff is just a filler material that plugs small openings, and usually does more harm than good. it is strictly a trail fix that requires extensive flushing afterwards.
cheers,
J
 
Not likely. the internal parts are just some rubber cylinders. usually they develop groves or rips, so there is no fix except replacing.
The stop leak stuff is just a filler material that plugs small openings, and usually does more harm than good. it is strictly a trail fix that requires extensive flushing afterwards.
cheers,
J

That's what I was thinking. If he can't find a spare then this may help a little in the mean time since he's going to rebuild or replace the MC ASAP anyway. I can't think of any other solution or trail fix.
 
Yes it can leak into the booster but if you are not losing fluid than that is not happening,probably the rubber rings on the MC piston is shot.

Now, that is exactly what happens here.
A pic will come later, no time now.
The rubber rings on the donor were better, so i'm swapping them in.
The real trouble is bleeding brakes when MC is not 100%.
I'm guessing this one now is 90% when donor rebuilt.

The parts are not easily avavible here, no other donors, no smart neighbors, the dealer takes a few weeks to back-order the rebuild kit. is on its way now, so i'll be good some day.

Now i just gotta bleed the system, and only way when not a 100% MC is vacuum or pressure on the system. I chose to make myself a vacuum-thingy. Also because i'm alone here, and no people to help me pump brakes.
Hoses, a bottle and fittings for the bleeders. works like a charm connected to the vacuum pump on the alternator ;)

Now, lets see if that actually works as planned! If so, it's gonna be my new favorite bleeder system. Will do the clutch slave also, if it's a good system.

Anyone disagree it's a good idea to draw vacuum from the vacuum pump on the alternator? i guess not, but it's running without the vac most of the time, dunno if thats bad to it or what... I'm just glad i could make this up out of stuff i had in the rig.
 
TLC, not understanding...draw vac. from the alt. ??

John
 
TLC, not understanding...draw vac. from the alt. ??

John

I think he connected a vacuum pump to the alternator to power it.

His is a diesel, and therefore produces no usable manifold vacuum to power the clutch and brake boosters, or anything else that needs vacuum. HJ60s came with alternators that had vacuum pumps installed on the back of them to serve this purpose.
 
His is a diesel, and therefore produces no usable manifold vacuum to power the clutch and brake boosters, or anything else that needs vacuum. HJ60s came with alternators that had vacuum pumps installed on the back of them to serve this purpose.
Schweet, thanks for the G2:cheers:
 
His is a diesel, and therefore produces no usable manifold vacuum to power the clutch and brake boosters, or anything else that needs vacuum. HJ60s came with alternators that had vacuum pumps installed on the back of them to serve this purpose.

Ah so. Interesting, thanks.

John
 
YEAH!!! Thanks for explaining to the petrolheads, Johnny! (you can have my 2H when i pop the whole thing from the donor. Just come get it! ;))
The vacuum pump made the bleeding process alone pretty good.
Hook up, loosen bleed valve, put thumb over hole in bottle to make vacuum, bleed, close valve, release thumb! next valve! My favorite homemade tool by now.
-i hooked a spare boost controller to slow off the vacuum a bit.
Goes in the car for serving future purpose!

Now i did get some time in on the drawers too, will update that slick mod later.

Off to by girlfriends birthday!

BTW: Thanks for letting me vent. maybe someone else will find this thread useful later on.
I'll post some pics when i get back from the trip.
 
okay, some pix:

the MC: Remember to push the pistons all the way in when removing the stopper bolt on the side there.
Bolt seen at the top of the pix. 10mm head.
28092010059.jpg


Sealing ring on the first piston (rear) is shot. Hard to tell from the crappy pix.
28092010062.jpg


Easyer to see this ring, also shot. No wonder i had no brakes.
28092010061.jpg


And now, the amazing vac-bleeder 2010 rev1:
28092010067-1.jpg

-The Vac plugs into the vac from the reservoir. Hose just slides in. This long hose goes all the way to the bottle, sealed up good with hot glue to the top of the bottle. 4meters of clear line.
-The bleeder hose hooks up to the middle of the bottle, 60 com long. Also has that little rubber hose to hold tight on the bleeder valve.
-Rub a hole on top of the bottle, about 1cm. This regulates the vac on the bleeder hose.
 

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