real time help for glass removal. (1 Viewer)

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Taos, New Mexico
Hey everyone,
I am trying to remove the glass out of my upper rear hatch on my 60. I want to save the rubber gasket and dont want to break the glass either. Is there a procedure to do this with out destroying any of it? Please help me out here gang.:bang:
 
Here it is from the manual
door glass removal.JPG
 
Sweet! exactly what I was looking for. thanks. i ned to get that FSM.
 
Having recently done this, I have some observations. The first is that if the rubber is original, I would recommend replacing it. If it is 20+ years old, it will be very dry and stiff, and hence it won't seal very well if you try to re-use it. The second observation is don't break the glass whatever you do. The rubber seal is around $60, the window several hundred, so it is an easy choice as to which one to sacrifice if need be. Third observation is lose the chrome strip. I tried to save it and no way. It is so thin, it bent no matter how careful I was. Replace the lock strip with rubber when you put it back together. The rubber looks better anyway and only costs $10.

So here are the steps to remove the window.

  1. Removing or replacing the rubber seals around the fixed windows needs to be done with the rubber as hot as you can stand to work with so it is as pliable as possible. So doing this in the direct sun on a warm day works best.
  2. Remove the chrome strip including the black plastic piece the chrome sits on.
  3. From the inside, push out on a lower corner of the rubber seal with a non-scratching blunt tool such as a nut driver or socket extension. Keep the tool pointed at an angle so if it slips, it won't hit the glass. The idea is to get the inside corner of the rubber to the outside. If you try to pry it out from the outside with a screwdriver, you will scratch the paint up pretty bad.
  4. Work your way up the side, pushing the rubber out as you go. Once you get to the top, work your way across alternating pushing out the bottom and the top. You will want a helper on the outside so the glass doesn't fall out. When you get close to the other side, you can just pull the glass out.
  5. If the rubber is too stiff to push out, then it is very old and should be replaced. You can cut it out with a razor knife, being careful to not nick the glass. Of course this will destroy the seal, but will prevent breaking the glass.

When you put it back together, the FSM shows a neat trick. You slide a cord all the way around the rubber seal into the groove where the metal edge sits when the window is installed. The ends of the cord should meet midway at the bottom of the window and have at least a foot of cord for you to grab with each hand. Have a helper on the outside center the window and hold it in place while you go inside and pull the ends of the cords. As you pull on the cords, the rubber seal pops onto the inside. Your fingers will be sore, but it works like magic.

Installing the rubber lock strip was another adventure. You will want to do this with the rubber as hot as you can stand, like I mentioned earlier. The best way I could figure to do it was to take an open end wrench that is just narrower than the width of the rubber lock strip. I then slid a socket extension through the box end of the wrench. It looks like a tee. You grasp your home made SST by the extension, squirt some silicon spray in the rubber groove and push the open end wrench over the lock strip and into the groove so that the rubber sides of the groove are bulging out around the wrench. Tilt the wrench at an angle and work it with a twisting motion as you move along in the groove and pressing the rubber lock strip into the groove with the fingers on your other hand. This will stretch the lock strip as you go, so every inch or two, pull the wrench out and push in more of the strip where it is entering the groove and without letting it pop out. This also bulges the seal a little more which means it will seal just a little better. Squirt some more silicon on it, insert your wrench and go for another couple of inches. I was able to install the rear window, the side cargo windows and the windshield in one afternoon. (All with new rubber seals from Toyota) But I will tell you this, my fingers and hands were mighty sore by the time I finished.
 
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Wow!!!! slcfj62,
Thanks for the detail instructions. Like you said.... the chrome trim was unsalvageable. What rubber did you use to replace the chrome and plastic trim insert?
today was perfect here in Utah for the rubber to get hot and pliable.
 
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When I got rid of my chrome, I saved the black plastic underneath and used it instead of replacing with rubber. It goes back it fairly easy and the only problem I could see with it is there is none behind the radiused corner trim pieces.
 
Thanks slcfj62,
Big help! thanks for the thread link and part numbers
 

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