Knuckle Rebuild:What grease to use? (2 Viewers)

[JLH911]

I did a search, but couldn't get a definitive answer:

Is one supposed to use Moly( dark) grease for the knuckle and red(or whatever color)non-moly grease?

I got some Mobil 1 Synthetic grease that says it's for bearings and other things, but can it be used for the inside of the knuckle or does it HAVE to be Moly grease?

Thanks

 

[Spike Strip]

Calls for Moly... I used Valvoline Dura-blend Moly semi-synthetic for front wheel bearings and knuckles.

 

[D'Animal]

I have used Frontier as well as Sheafers.


I have also used RTG (Red Tractor Grease) in a pinch.

 

[Dynosoar]

The Birfields/ knuckels should use moly grease but the wheel bearings could use the red wheel bearing grease. I use Swepco grease (my old race car stuff).


Dynosoar

 

[D'Animal]

It was a trail repair while replacing a broken birf.

I have also used RTG (Red Tractor Grease) in a pinch.

 

[ntsqd]

All's fair in trail repairs. I know of a Sami that made it well over 100 miles home on Vaseline and no rollers in it's RF wheel bearings.

I use CV joint grease. Birfields are a type of CV joint. Specifically I use Redline CV Joint Grease sourced from Summit. It happens to be red, but it does have moly in it. I also use it in my wheel bearings, which means that I pretty much never have to look at those in my streeters again.

 

[Tofudebeest]

I used Lubramatic Marine Corrosion Control and Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease.


Marine Wheel Bearing Grease, 16 oz. Tub $4.69 (Home Depot)

"LubriMatic® Marine Trailer Bearing Grease contains a special calcium sulfonate complex, water insoluble formula which is ideal for marine applications. It provides excellent corrosion protection under severe conditions caused by salt water and air. Use on wheel bearings (including disc brake wheel bearings), swivel hinges, pins, winches and anchor chain reels. Rated GC-LB by NLGI. NLGI #2, drop point 550°F."

It has no molybdenum disulfide, nor is it lithium-based, so the friction reduction properties (sliding) are not as optimal as lithium-based greases with EP (Moly) additives. My light wheeling should not make my grease choice regrettable though. Thank about a massive boat on a trailer and the pressure it would put on those wheel bearings. If you wheel hard or regularly, go with a Moly grease, for sure.

They also make a "Moly EP" grease, and a specific "CV Joint Grease" (Lithium based grease with 3% Moly for extra protection. For use when repairing and replacing joints and/or protective boots. NLGI#1-1/2, drop point 400°F.)

I spoke with the tech guy at Plews Edelmann, who makes the Lubrimatic products, and while he was clear that the CV joint or Moly EP product were the better choice, I should be OK with the Marine Grease. If it won't handle the pressures and lubrication requirements, I'll hear creaking and graoning from the knuckles, indicating wear.

 

[bigDcruiser]

I used Lubramatic Marine Corrosion Control and Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease.


Marine Wheel Bearing Grease, 16 oz. Tub $4.69 (Home Depot)

LubriMatic® Marine Trailer Bearing Grease contains a special calcium sulfonate complex, water insoluble formula which is ideal for marine applications. It provides excellent corrosion protection under severe conditions caused by salt water and air. Use on wheel bearings (including disc brake wheel bearings), swivel hinges, pins, winches and anchor chain reels. Rated GC-LB by NLGI. NLGI #2, drop point 550°F.

It has no molybdenum disulfide, so the friction reduction properties are not as optimal as lithium-based greases with EP (Moly) additives. My light wheeling should not make my grease choice regrettable though. If you wheel hard or regularly, go with a Moly grease, for sure.

"so much love and yet, so much informations" - gaylor focker

 

[dixie_cragger]

I researched this last year (for my second knuckle rebuild) and ended up using the same Amsoil moly grease for both the bearings and knuckles. Apparently, that's what the SLEE offroad (80s series trucks) guys have been using. Figured if it was good enough for those dudes, should be good enough for me.

 

[JLH911]

The Birfields/ knuckels should use moly grease but the wheel bearings could use the red wheel bearing grease. I use Swepco grease (my old race car stuff).


Dynosoar

I pulled out the FSM and they suggest using moly grease in the knuckles and the bearings.

I guess I can't go wrong by using moly in the knuckles and red bearing grease on the bearings.

 

[NocalFJ60]

I guess I can't go wrong by using moly in the knuckles and red bearing grease on the bearings.

This is what I did years ago on my first rebuild but I would probably just use all moly if I did it again. So what is next after finishing the front axle?

 

[JLH911]

This is what I did years ago on my first rebuild but I would probably just use all moly if I did it again. So what is next after finishing the front axle?

Oh yeah, that's right, you've been following my progress...

Umm, I'm thinking of upgrading the brake. I know I should have done it now that I'm doing the knuckle job, but don't have the funds to do it the way I want.


I think mechanically, I'll see where the "clunking" from 3rd to 4th gear is coming from. I'm think the rear diff.

When I have the funds, I'll definitely do the H55 5-speed.

 

[Toadhopper]

I used an Amsoil moly grease. I liked it because it was purple, seriously... it's supposed to be really good stuff.
Bryan

 

[3pits]

I am in the middle of my first FAR, (front axel rebuild) I accidentally put regular old bearing grease in one birfield, but realized it before I closed it up,, so I dug it all out,

after researching this to death here, I decided to just go with the valvoline full synthetic moly, (it was my first choice but I cheaped out since it is almost 7$ a lb, compared to the other junk that is like 11$ for 4#) ,,,,

I thought MP was short for Multi Purpose.....which could be, but I guess I was getting MP and MB mixed up


so you guys are saying you can put the full moly synthetic on the wheel bearings too? or should I look at the Lucas Red and tacky? I need to get this done this weekend as the loaner car from my GF is getting old, so I cannot wait to mail order the AMSOIL, though I would rather use that.


I was thinking the NLGI #2 was like an A or B rating, so when I saw the NLGI on the tub I thought Oh This is not an A or B rated product, and the guys at the local Advance did not know either,, now I read the #2 is a consistancy grade which means more sticky than the straight NLGI rated grease.

Hope this helps

 

[JLH911]

I am in the middle of my first FAR, (front axel rebuild) I accidentally put regular old bearing grease in one birfield, but realized it before I closed it up,, so I dug it all out,

after researching this to death here, I decided to just go with the valvoline full synthetic moly, (it was my first choice but I cheaped out since it is almost 7$ a lb, compared to the other junk that is like 11$ for 4#) ,,,,

I thought MP was short for Multi Purpose.....which could be, but I guess I was getting MP and MB mixed up


so you guys are saying you can put the full moly synthetic on the wheel bearings too? or should I look at the Lucas Red and tacky? I need to get this done this weekend as the loaner car from my GF is getting old, so I cannot wait to mail order the AMSOIL, though I would rather use that.


I was thinking the NLGI #2 was like an A or B rating, so when I saw the NLGI on the tub I thought Oh This is not an A or B rated product, and the guys at the local Advance did not know either,, now I read the #2 is a consistancy grade which means more sticky than the straight NLGI rated grease.

Hope this helps

I'm going to use Amsoil Synthetic MP(Multi-purpose) grease for the bearings (P/N GLCCR) and Amsoil Synthetic Heavy-Duty Grease(P/N GHDCR)for the Knuckles. It specifically lists knuckles as one of the things it's used for.

 

[ntsqd]

What put me onto using CV joint grease in wheel bearings was talking to a guy who's been working in racing for years, Fabricator, mechanic, he's done it all on everything from Indy cars to Cup cars. He told me about trying to make the outer RF wheel bearing live a full race in the 500 mile big oval Cup car races. They eventually used CV Joint grease because it is superior to every wheel bearing grease that they could find in both pressure and in temperature. He said that eventually they moved to using Krytox grease, but I don't see any of us filling a Birf full of $30 per 2 oz. tube type of grease.

Stumbled onto the below quote in searching for current Krytox pricing. Specifically it is referring to the slines of a shaft drive motorcycle, but it has me thinking about what to lube drive shaft splines with.....

"Honda specifies a spline grease which is 60% molybdenum disulfide ("moly"). Moly is a dry lubricant which bonds to the metal surfaces, offering lubrication properties even when the parts have squeezed everything liquid out. A lot of greases now say "Moly" on the container, but you must be careful about this. Ford and Caterpillar specify moly greases for particular applications, but the requirement is for 3% moly, not even close to the 60% requirement of Honda. It's not enough to buy a moly grease, what you really want is basically dry moly in a grease-like carrier which makes it easier to apply."
Motorcycle Shaft Drive Grease

Based on that quote I'd say that checking what the percentage of moly in the grease is important.

 

[Tofudebeest]

So, anyone think I need to pull my knuckles, clean 'em out, and put moly grease in there before I regret it? I's like some actual first-hand experience here, not conjecture...

 

[D'Animal]

I have never had a birfield break because of the wrong grease.

 

[Tofudebeest]

I have never had a birfield break because of the wrong grease.

What about premature wear?

 

[cruiser88]

What about premature wear?

Never.....Just as long as it has enough and the seals and all are not leaking you are fine.