Finally got off my a** & with the help of Spook50 made a decision on the type of adhesive & trim to use: McMaster-Carr 75875A661 1/8x3/8 butyl-coated sealing tape & 24175K17 edge trim.
Aussie Sliding Windows In & Trimmed!
- Thread starter Tinker
- Start date
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Looks
looks amazing! me so jealous, got the windows but my seals are going
looks amazing! me so jealous, got the windows but my seals are going
Not familiar with the installation of Aussie sliders but have given thoughts to getting a set for my 60.
Does the sealing tape hold the track into the body opening and the trim then clamp the inner panel, body edge, and window frame together?
Does the sealing tape hold the track into the body opening and the trim then clamp the inner panel, body edge, and window frame together?
I've been looking for exactly this kind of help. I have a set of sliders and I have wanted to install them, but did not want to urethane them in and didn't know how I was going to deal with the inside trim issue. However, I am slow-witted. If you have the time and inclination, could you give me a step-by-step. I'm reluctant to ask and in fact embarrassed, but I have posted here before, written to Toyota Australia but come up with no real answers. At this point, YOU are THE source.
Your install looks absolutely great! Looks like you powder coated the frames too! Any guidance here will also be appreciated.
Your install looks absolutely great! Looks like you powder coated the frames too! Any guidance here will also be appreciated.
- Thread starter
- #5
Mo Pix & Direx
Easiest way to get the fixed quarter windows out: go to an auto glass shop. Otherwise, you have to work the gasket lip from a corner on the inside - top rear is best since it's the largest angle. I prefer a "hook tool" & a "bone stick", but my guy Chuck (who really did this job - I just helped) doesn't like hooks (something about stabbing himself in the face once too often) & just uses the bones. Pushing from the inside & working the gasket back & forth the corner will start to move outward. Don't worry about breaking the glass - it's tempered. Only chance of doing that is if it falls out. But you're not going to stay inside pushing until that happens. Once you have about 6" loose each way from the corner, go outside, grab the corner, & start pulling. You may have to go inside to help it along, but once it starts it's easy & gradual from then.
With the fixed window out, trim back the headliner anywhere it overlaps the pinch weld (the vertical surface the gasket was lipped over) too far so you have about 3/8" clean. Wipe the vertical mating surfaces with a strong solvent (we used acetone) & apply 1/8x3/8 butyl sealant. I got mine from McMaster-Carr 'cause the only I could get it from my normal suppliers was to buy a case. I haven't seen this size but a couple times in 17 years in the auto glass biz.
Pay attention to the rubber blocks that may have been stuck to the bottom of the Aussies - you'll need them or something else to space the bottom of the frame away from the body of the truck so the drains will work. Mine got thrown away so we just used 1/8x1x3/4(about) pieces of "setting blocks" held to the frame with butyl tape.
Apply the butyl tape to the vertical pinch weld, starting at the middle of the bottom & continuing in one piece. Line the window up, stick it in the hole, & you're ready for the trim.
I put the "grabbing lip" of the McMaster trim towards the outside of the truck so the inside wouldn't have a gap where it meets the headliner & the plastic liners. Start in the middle of the bottom, below the division bar. The thickness of the pichweld varies (by how many pieces of sheet metal are pinched together & welded) so be careful to get the U over all the pieces before you start pounding on it. I used a rubber mallet & a piece of 2x4. Turn the 2x4 sideways in the corners so you can more closely follow the curve. I used aviation snips to cut it at the end but it seems to sorta splinter, so cut it long first.
Easiest way to get the fixed quarter windows out: go to an auto glass shop. Otherwise, you have to work the gasket lip from a corner on the inside - top rear is best since it's the largest angle. I prefer a "hook tool" & a "bone stick", but my guy Chuck (who really did this job - I just helped) doesn't like hooks (something about stabbing himself in the face once too often) & just uses the bones. Pushing from the inside & working the gasket back & forth the corner will start to move outward. Don't worry about breaking the glass - it's tempered. Only chance of doing that is if it falls out. But you're not going to stay inside pushing until that happens. Once you have about 6" loose each way from the corner, go outside, grab the corner, & start pulling. You may have to go inside to help it along, but once it starts it's easy & gradual from then.
With the fixed window out, trim back the headliner anywhere it overlaps the pinch weld (the vertical surface the gasket was lipped over) too far so you have about 3/8" clean. Wipe the vertical mating surfaces with a strong solvent (we used acetone) & apply 1/8x3/8 butyl sealant. I got mine from McMaster-Carr 'cause the only I could get it from my normal suppliers was to buy a case. I haven't seen this size but a couple times in 17 years in the auto glass biz.
Pay attention to the rubber blocks that may have been stuck to the bottom of the Aussies - you'll need them or something else to space the bottom of the frame away from the body of the truck so the drains will work. Mine got thrown away so we just used 1/8x1x3/4(about) pieces of "setting blocks" held to the frame with butyl tape.
Apply the butyl tape to the vertical pinch weld, starting at the middle of the bottom & continuing in one piece. Line the window up, stick it in the hole, & you're ready for the trim.
I put the "grabbing lip" of the McMaster trim towards the outside of the truck so the inside wouldn't have a gap where it meets the headliner & the plastic liners. Start in the middle of the bottom, below the division bar. The thickness of the pichweld varies (by how many pieces of sheet metal are pinched together & welded) so be careful to get the U over all the pieces before you start pounding on it. I used a rubber mallet & a piece of 2x4. Turn the 2x4 sideways in the corners so you can more closely follow the curve. I used aviation snips to cut it at the end but it seems to sorta splinter, so cut it long first.
Tinker, You have helped me out. I've got to read and reread, view and review what you've provided. I think when I am ready to get off my ---, I'll have you to thank for helping me to do this install correctly. I don't want to turn this into a public spectacle; is it Ok if I PM you if I get stuck ?
Also, I noticed you've added rear speakers. Looks great. What's the difference in sound quality?
One thing I have done is added rear shoulder belts and trim from an FJ 62. Did it because I have grandchildren. I did the stop test many times, and they work just fine. I'm glad I did it. If you are interested, I can tell, not show, at this point, what I did. I am working at my computer skills. At 62, the world looks very different. I'm trying to catch up. Again, you're a pal. Thanks N.M.
Also, I noticed you've added rear speakers. Looks great. What's the difference in sound quality?
One thing I have done is added rear shoulder belts and trim from an FJ 62. Did it because I have grandchildren. I did the stop test many times, and they work just fine. I'm glad I did it. If you are interested, I can tell, not show, at this point, what I did. I am working at my computer skills. At 62, the world looks very different. I'm trying to catch up. Again, you're a pal. Thanks N.M.
Tinker
How much of the edge trim (24175K17) from McMaster-Carr did you buy to do your windows?? And when you installed the new edge trim, which side did you put the internal "gripping finger" against- towards the inside of the truck, outside of the truck or didn't matter/who cares? A picture referencing the "gripping finger" is attached.
Also, I've seen a couple of posts about folks windows falling out because they used butyl and attached them to the welting... does that make sense to you?
Thanks in advance
Koby
How much of the edge trim (24175K17) from McMaster-Carr did you buy to do your windows?? And when you installed the new edge trim, which side did you put the internal "gripping finger" against- towards the inside of the truck, outside of the truck or didn't matter/who cares? A picture referencing the "gripping finger" is attached.
Also, I've seen a couple of posts about folks windows falling out because they used butyl and attached them to the welting... does that make sense to you?
Thanks in advance
Koby
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looks great! me likey Aussie sliders.
Beautiful. That's how it's supposed to look.
never knew they opened in both directions. now i'm even more jelous.
