Front Axle Inner Seals Leaking - 1975 FJ55

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75PIG

75PIG

Joined
Jul 12, 2005
Threads
56
Messages
371
Never Done This! Be gentle.

OK, have done searches on how to perform just the front axle inner seal. I haven't been able to find much. Some on the front axle knuckle rebuild but not much. Pointers to Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters. Have not found any "step-by-step" process nor examples using pictures on the forum or FAQ (Woody pictures missing). I have the 1972-1974 Toyota Repair Manual Pub No. 98077-1 (pages 5-1 through 5-28) and Haynes Manual covering 1968 through 1982 FJ-40s. and 55s. I have a March of 1975 FJ-55. The repair manual is not giving me much guidance to accomplish my "focused" task of just repairing the seals that are leaking.

Problem:

Leakage of gear oil down wheel and tire on front passenger side. See Pic.

Checked with Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters and he suggested I tear it apart to make sure I know what is needed before ordering the "Front Axle Knuckle Rebuild Kit." I could just need the inner axle seals. Checked with my local mechanic and based on my description, they suggested just doing the inner seals. I do not have play in the front wheels - suggesting bearing wear is satisfactory? Kurt was saying that he was developing a procedure to do this. However, I need one now.

If someone knows where this process might be described would appreciate sending me a link. Not sure, what all needs to be torn down to get to the inner seals. How much I need/want to disassemble.

Assume drum brakes need disconnecting but not sure I I want to disconnect the steering knuckle if I do not have to. I have not opened it up so do not know. My drum and locking hub is different than the 1972 to 1974 Toyota Repair Manual shows.

Just need some guidance before I wrench this with my son (more of a learning experience for him). Any hints on how to capture the oil that will spill from the axle. To limit leaking, I would park this side on 2x6's to elevate so would not leak. Brakes shoes have not been "crapped" up from oil leakage, yet.

***********************************
Found this response from "Poser"

Inner axle seal is leaking, and letting gear oil out into the knuckle to mix with the Moly grease that should be in there, and leaking past the rubber ring and felt seal on the back side of the knuckle.


Quote:
Originally Posted by a6016
Is the repair difficult?

Difficult, no. Messy and time consuming, yes. Get a FSM and get after it. The procedure is called out in there, and there are many threads out here on front axle seal/knuckle seals/bearing replacement.


If you are seeing gear oil on the rear axle drum/backing plate then you have a rear axle seal leaking there also....It could be brake fluid leaking from a wheel cylinder also however...


Good luck!


-Steve

75Pig Pics
P1140330.webp
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Short of writing the R&R procedure for the work, Kurt has you on the correct path. I am making an assumption from the pics, but I think there is a little 'deferred' maintenance here and I would encourage you not to go into this with the intention of only replacing the offending seal. This is a fairly easy day-long process for a novice to completely rebuild the front knuckles, IF you have the right tools. The process is pretty linear and really only technical with regards to torque and pre-load values. Otherwise, it's just messy. You can do it!
 
I'm in the middle of doing this right now (see post 63 onwards):

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/471022-71-fj40-work-progress-2.html

There I posted the link to coolerman's page with the knuckle rebuild. On post 64, third picture, you'll see I have it down to the knuckle and the outer birf sticking out. From there you can remove the birfield and get to the inner axle seal, remove and replace. Maybe with the tougher marlin inner axle seals?

http://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/f...ice-parts/service-front-fj/hd-inner-axle-seal

then put it back together again. Ignore the cylinder removal in my post as I'm replacing all the brake system too. You could probably get away with disconnecting the hard line on the axle by the drum and removing that as one piece...

It also looks like you're missing the safety wire that goes through the bolt head holes in pic 2. I picked up some here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VR49R2/?tag=ihco-20 to fix that

Oh, the axle fluid...best to drain from the diff drain plug first. I have no idea how much tilt you'd need to prevent it coming out when you pull the birf.

Anyway, that's probably the way I'd go.....although who knows what you'll find as you go and need. If it had been a while I'd probably just do a complete rebuild.

Good luck
 
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OK, I think I am convinced. Need to rip it apart. Great link to "Coolerman" linkage and great Merlinridesagain play by play. Jut got done wading through it. I looks like a lot of work. Painting and cleaning all the parts and nuts and bolts could protract this project.

Interestingly, the missing "safety wire" tells me that someone has been in there before. I saw that in the photo but did not know what went in there. I have 98K miles on her so expect it has been done before to some extent or the knuckle bearings need to be replaced because they keep making the seal leak.

Will see what happens now that I know "how" to rip it apart. Again, Great procedure by "Coolerman." Mine is not leaking as badly as Coolerman's; his leak wrecked his brake shoes.

I hate doing brakes with drums but too cheap to convert to disc. Takes me too much time to get them adjusted correctly. They are perfect now. Bummer!

Thanks - will look into the Marlin seals--- think it is necessary?
 
Will start today. Good idea to drop the fluid from the pumpkin 1st, dah. After I purchase the removal top lift for the FJ40 and retrieve the 4x4 to attach it to with the FJ80.

Will order the TRE puller from Amazon. Could not find it at Harbor Freight. It did not bugger up the threads? Thanks for the link Merlinridesagain. See below link for "others" interested in this tool. Will order the safety wire as well. Now, just need to have my son(s) read all this good information. This is supposed to be their project. A lot to absorb for young men with "little" experience and a Dad who has not done this before. Guess they (we) will learn.

Also, the MerlinRidesAgain and Coolerman links are excellent! What a great tool Coolerman has created for us weekend auto mechanics!

Merlinridesagain:
The TRE removal from the steering arm was straight forward with one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?tag=ihco-20
 
Safety Wire:

I have some .025 " diameter Stainless Steel saftey lock wire. Do I need to to use the thicker diameter (.041") that you used/bought from Amazon? Is there a spec to use. There is currently none. I am proposing half the diameter to be used. Is that OK?
 
My "lock-out hubs" are different than the Warn hubs most have (I have Warn on the FJ40) - see Coolerman and MerlinridesAgain.

They are different than the Toyota repair Manual (page 5-7). How do I get the "lock-free" cap off to get to the axle outer shaft and snap ring?
 
I'm not sure on what wire can be interchanged with 0.041. Here is where a post that discussed it:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/245372-safety-wire-brake-backing-plate-bolts.html

as I had time I just ordered the right stuff.

As for the TRE remover, there was no hammering at all so the threads remained the same. I will say though the center pin failed on mine. Not a big deal as I just put a stronger bolt through it and kept on using it. Others have had luck with this:

OTC Puller

but it was on back order for a month so went for the cheaper one referenced earlier...
 
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cruiserjunkie said:
Necessary no but better product for a few bucks more and who wants to go back in there
Click to expand...

Absolutely correct! Who wants to go back in there. After reading the Coolerman and MerlinRidesAgain posts, I sure do not want to.

However, I have a 1972 FJ40 and a 1993 FJ80 so think I will not be able to avoid doing this again in the future.
 
merlinridesagain said:
I'm not sure on what wire can be interchanged with 0.41. Here is where a post that discussed it:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/245372-safety-wire-brake-backing-plate-bolts.html

as I had time I just ordered the right stuff.

As for the TRE remover, there was no hammering at all so the threads remained the same. I will say though the center pin failed on mine. Not a big deal as I just put a stronger bolt through it and kept on using it. Others have had luck with this:

OTC Puller

but it was on back order for a month so went for the cheaper one referenced earlier...
Click to expand...



Safety Wire and Puller:

Will order the amazon Safety Wire and thinking about the more expensive OTC puller. Searched on Safety wire and came up with same thread. Good ideas. Now just need to get moving on it.
 
This is a great link to video. What my boys need because it is visual! Good description and I think that it does not matter if it is disc (as in the video) or if it is drum brakes, like what I have.

Thanks again for the link!
 
Ok, #2 Son is back from school. Pig sat in garage all year waiting for him to give it some more attention. Passenger side is all taken apart and cleaned. Need to separate birfield from axle yet and clean.


What Greases are used?

1. Knuckle bearings
2. Spindle
3. Inside knuckle casing
4. Wheel bearings - Drum

Coolerman says to use a good multi-purpose grease
Merlinridesagain did not complete the thread so do not know what he used in the end -- however, well done
Fast Eddy says to used Red Disc-brake grease on the spindle and moly grease inside the knuckle. He says this is manufacturer specs.

You tube says CV moly grease in the birfield and high temp wheel bearing grease.

I go to Oriely or autozone and they have moly for ford lincloln merckury but not for japanese models. What do I use??????
 
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