Makin' Brake Lines

[Vae Victus]

About to buy brake line coil, flaring tool, cutter, bender, Eastwood bending pliers and brake nuts to redo brake and fuel lines as I go along. AGS NiCopp on amazon, 25' for $29 [Edit: not $39]. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_sr_au...&node=15684181

What length 10mm x 1.0mm nuts do I need for the brake fittings? Currently it is all stock brakes.

Do I need the 17mm non-threaded lead (http://store.fedhillusa.com/13nutpack.aspx) or the 23mm (http://store.fedhillusa.com/14nutpack.aspx)?

Anyone know how many nuts to do all the lines? I guess I'll go to SOR and count the lines in their photo.

Buying all the tools and supplies, including the Rigid 345 DL tool for $85, I'm still ahead by $100, and I can do all the gas and any other hard lines I need.

Good idea? Bad idea?

 

[FishTacos]

Good idea.

I have the older m9x1 fittings so this is my solution as well. Going to M10x1 that is. I think the longer nuts with the non threaded lead is the thing you want. That assumes that the T fittings and junctions on your truck are intact AFTER dismantling them. Over-tightening can mushroom the end of your nuts effectively making them larger than the female threads. they are then hard to remove without destroying the threads on your fittings. Most of mine suffered this fate.

39$ for the 25' coil is a little on the expensive side. I found a coil at the local parts house for 24$. Having it just show up at your door may be worth the 15$ if it is a trek to the parts store.

Brakequip.com has been recommended to me for replacement fittings

Their website: http://www.brakequip.com/index.html
Their retail portal (is terrible. no pics of product): http://www.brakequipstore.com/home.php
Their dealer locator: http://www.brakequip.com/locator/?col=us

You are in Nashville IIRC. One of the brakequip dealers, Waller Sales Corp, is 20 miles north in Whitehouse, TN.

their website (not much of a retail portal): http://www.waller-sales.com/Home

Put some penetrating oil (pb blaster, kroil, etc..) on your fittings asap. No fun when they break.

Pic of my mushroomy nuts (get your minds out of the gutter):

 

[Vae Victus]

The coil is not for plain steel, which I agree, you can get 25' for $16 at amazon with free shipping, no sales tax. It is the Nickel Copper alloy that will last until some just wants to replace it, plus easier bends. It's all the rage, everyone's doin' it, c'mon man!

I thought this was a really good price, as I can only find the NiCopp stuff for about $50.

I'll check out the Waller group. All helpful info, thanks!

I'm going to try the FedHill for the fittings. I've read others using them, and the pictures make me sure of what I'm getting.

 

[Vae Victus]

Brakequip.com has been recommended to me for replacement fittings

Their website: http://www.brakequip.com/index.html
Their retail portal (is terrible. no pics of product): http://www.brakequipstore.com/home.php
Their dealer locator: http://www.brakequip.com/locator/?col=us

They do have a catalog in PDF that has pics, that comes from a link on their home page, as well as a (large download) custom hose fitting PDF that looks like the bomb.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Hey man once you acquire everything post up part numbers and locations where you found them. I've got this project coming this summer and I'd love for you to do all the hard work for me! Thanks

 

[Weber Sarge]

Be careful with that Rigid flaring tool , most of the reviews show an issue with it distorting the line and making the flares off center .
Sarge

 

[Weber Sarge]

Here's the Matco version I've had for over 15yrs , still no wear and works perfect -
http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/DFS260A/DOUBLE-FLARE-TOOL-SET/

Sarge

 

[fhawk5]

My local hydraulic store also recommended using small copper washers , (sealing), so when you tighten the fitting, it seals on that washer and limits the force on the original design....It works..

 

[zags]

Be careful with that Rigid flaring tool , most of the reviews show an issue with it distorting the line and making the flares off center .
Sarge

Most times this is caused by poor prep. The inside of the line needs to be thoroughly deburred. I use a countersink in a drill like this one that I got from Home Depot:

The outside of the line needs to be chamfered also. I have a stationary belt grinder that I use, but you could probably get the same result with the sanding arbor on a Dremel tool. For years I would occasionally have a flare go bad, and just assumed that that is the way it was. Once I figured out how to prep the tube properly I have had no problems.

Also, always double check that the end was cut square, the tool is perfectly centered, and the correct amount of tube is sticking out as measured by the shoulder on the double flare adapter.

The bending pliers are pretty useless IMO. To get a good looking tight bend close to a fitting, I grip the line in my hand with the nut held just above my thumb and the crook of my forefinger. I then take a box end wrench the size of the nut and put it on the fitting, using it as a lever to bend the tube over my forefinger. Quick and easy.

 

[Weber Sarge]

This issue I've ran into over the years is the basic design of the u-frame , the Matco is so far the only one that uses an indexing system to lock the frame on-center every time . Even the good 'ol Blue Point sets would make one off-center on occasion and ruin the flare . I always chamfer the inside/outside prior to flaring to prevent burring .
Sarge

 

[zags]

This issue I've ran into over the years is the basic design of the u-frame , the Matco is so far the only one that uses an indexing system to lock the frame on-center every time . Even the good 'ol Blue Point sets would make one off-center on occasion and ruin the flare . I always chamfer the inside/outside prior to flaring to prevent burring .
Sarge

I can see where that would be a nice feature.

 

[Vae Victus]

Be careful with that Rigid flaring tool , most of the reviews show an issue with it distorting the line and making the flares off center .
Sarge

Sarge, where are you reading the negative reviews? I'm going off of the http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-23337-...dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1amazon reviews, which are all 5s but one 4.

Thanks for the Matco link. Looks like a great tool. I certainly trust your experience.

 

[Vae Victus]

My local hydraulic store also recommended using small copper washers , (sealing), so when you tighten the fitting, it seals on that washer and limits the force on the original design....It works..

What size?

 

[Vae Victus]

Most times this is caused by poor prep. The inside of the line needs to be thoroughly deburred. I use a countersink in a drill like this one that I got from Home Depot:

The outside of the line needs to be chamfered also. I have a stationary belt grinder that I use, but you could probably get the same result with the sanding arbor on a Dremel tool. For years I would occasionally have a flare go bad, and just assumed that that is the way it was. Once I figured out how to prep the tube properly I have had no problems.

Also, always double check that the end was cut square, the tool is perfectly centered, and the correct amount of tube is sticking out as measured by the shoulder on the double flare adapter.

The bending pliers are pretty useless IMO. To get a good looking tight bend close to a fitting, I grip the line in my hand with the nut held just above my thumb and the crook of my forefinger. I then take a box end wrench the size of the nut and put it on the fitting, using it as a lever to bend the tube over my forefinger. Quick and easy.

And your chamfer is how large? Why chamfer the outside?

 

[Spike Strip]

FWIW, that Matco flaring tool is made by OTC and you can get it (now) with a different pipe cutter for around $55

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-6506/media/images

Amazon has them for $30 without the tube cutter. OTC 6505

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4503-Stinger-Double-Flaring/dp/B000L7QZ0Q

 

[zags]

And your chamfer is how large? Why chamfer the outside?

I figured it would be easier to do one and show you on a piece of brake line than try to describe it.
I am no engineer, but I would guess that the chamfer allows the double flare die work more smoothly to make a nice even flare.

 

[scrapdaddy]

What's everybody's thoughts on Stainless Steel lines. Harder to flare and bend, but last forever.

 

[Poser]

This tool just works.

Eastwood peddles is, as does other outfits.

 

[nocents]

This tool just works.

Eastwood peddles is, as does other outfits.

Just finished up all new stainless lines on my 45 with this tool. No leaks, but it is a hard pull on the handle to get the flares done .

 

[shipmag]

Nice tool pretty expensive if you don't plan on doing more than one vehicle. Does any body have one they want to rent when I get to that point of my project? A brake line kit from SOR is $259. If you knew you were going to do this with other vehicles it would be different. The Matco kit seems more affordable.