Bought this 79 FJ40 with 200K as a fixer up. Start it up and after 5 minutes it smokes like a tire fire(oil). Was told it has a rebuilt head and decent bearings. The weber was pouring way to much gas in so I think the cylinders got washed. The sale came with new standard rings and a head gasket so I got nothing to loose. I have done this before. Pop the head, oil pan then ridge ream the cylinders. Pop the pistons, put some rags in the bottom of the cylinders and hone, clean the piston ring groves and put the new rings on. Put it back together. Anybody have any input?
Any advice... Putting in new rings
- Thread starter FJforty
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Guess I would pull the head and inspect/measure the bores.
If they are not in spec, I would not waste my time with rings.
While the head is off, I would have someone look at it as well. Just because a PO says that it was rebuilt, does not mean it was, or that it is a serviceable component.
If they are not in spec, I would not waste my time with rings.
While the head is off, I would have someone look at it as well. Just because a PO says that it was rebuilt, does not mean it was, or that it is a serviceable component.
Go pick up a cheap leak-down tester and see where the problem lies before tearing it apart.
I vote valve stem seals. After 5 minutes there would be a lot of oil in the valve cover that could be why you see it after 5 minutes. If engine is sludged up could make it even worse as the oil would not flow back down as well. I would think bad rings would make it smoke in the first minute or so, not after 5 minutes.
- Thread starter
- #6
The guy I bought it from had the heads rebuilt 3 years ago( 5k miles on new stem seals... I asked). Not sure about the rebuilder. PO said it ran clean for 2 years after the head rebuild then started smoking. The PO also put on a weber, headers and an HEI... nice. I have capped off all the PVC and related that could suck in oil. Granted it could be the seals but I don't know how to isolate that from bad oil rings. Any ideas. I guess I could run it with the valve cover off just to watch... messy. I should also add that smokes just a little a idle and a bunch when it is reved.
I don't see a leak down test doing much to find burning oil. That is mostly for compression.
I don't see a leak down test doing much to find burning oil. That is mostly for compression.
Heads? How many heads are on your 2F?
Seems you are convinced.
Get to tearing things apart. Take pictures and post up what you find!
Hopefully you have a machine shop look at your cylinder head....and do not find any drama with the block...
You've obviously never used one before.
Since you're so adamant against using a leak down tester, do a compression test. Record your data. Squirt some oil in the cylinder. Retest and compare results. If the reading went up noticably, you have bad rings.
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- #9
It might be worth more testing before I tear into it. I presumed the oil was getting in from either valve seals or stuck oil rings. I suppose if the regular rings are shot this could also produce smoking. Hmm. I believe a compression test is in order. So a good test is the first compression ( screw in tester) test without oil and the second with oil. The second one sealing off the rings which means the valves are leaking. This might not completely isolate the problem but I will get a better picture before the head comes off. Leak down test is to apply pressure and then monitor the bleed off rate without cranking the engine? Thanks
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- #11
Had a quick thought on how to isolate rings of valve guides causing bad Blue smoke. How about, pop the rocker arm assembly off and plug the oil hole that feeds the rockers. Replace the rockers and start it up and let it run for 10 minutes. I wouldn't think that 10 minutes of idle and a few revs would seize anything. What do you think.
We already told you how to do it without any of that nonsense.
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- #13
I believe we is actually you Splangy. Others seem to think it is valve seals. I am trying to do tests and not tear this thing apart unless I have to. Should have some compressions soon.
1) I wasn't alone in telling you how to use the various tools you should be using.
2) I never said it wasn't valve seals (nor did I even suggest it).
3) I've been telling you all along that you should do tests and not just tear it apart.
Shy of you having an oil injection system added by the previous owner that you are unaware of; you are not going to repair an oil consumption issue in your Land Cruiser engine without tearing things apart and replacing components, especially one that you liken to a tire fire.
Have you verified that your PCV valve is not stuck/works properly, and that the PCV system and breather system for the engine is plumbed in and working properly?
Are you an EE by chance?
.
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- #16
I do expect to tear things apart but I also try to think about the system and different ways of testing. Yes on the EE, mindreader. PCV and all other hoses into the carb disconnected. I was thinking about removing the valve cover and starting the darn thing up, oil will fly all over. If I plug the oil galley to the valve rack it would kill two birds, no flying oil and no oil down the valve stems. Seems reasonable. I will do compression tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #18
Great news. Much easier to work on engines that dont throw oil. I will pull the valve cover and test that tomorrow. The guy that rebuilt the head used new seals but not sure of his mechanic skills. I will get a magnifying glass in there. Might get some pics. Thanks
Most efficient way to create an oil pump is to do the head (VALVES, ETC) and not the rings. New valves pull oil past the rings...smokey's coming. Your very first paragraph gave the solution. Pull head, and assuming it's been to the machine shop already, ring it. Problem solved.