do you solder or crimp?

[bandy rooster]

I have put my ezwiring harness together about a year ago and crimped 100% of the wires, but do to me constantly rebuilding crap that I can't leave alone, i have to tear some of it back out for relocation...

my question is, do you guys prefer crimping or soldering?


spades, eye holes, and butt connectors commonly come in crimped connections, is there connections out there that require/are used for soldered connections?

i'm leaning towards soldering/shrinkwraping my connections this time around, although i did shrinkwrap my connections last time.


any good source for solderable connections if they do exist?

 

[Pin_Head]

It depends on how long you want it to work before having problems.

If you want it to last, use solder and shrink tube. It might take another minute per connector.

You can solder any type of wire connector, even after crimping them.

 

[Zekester]

I make it a habit of cutting off the plastic part of the crimp connector, soldering it, and using two part shrink wrap...the weather proof stuff...after numerous issues around battery connections etc, it was the way to go...bulletproof...

 

[rusty_tlc]

For stranded wire a proper crimp connection is more reliable than a soldered connection.
This is not opinion, it is fact based on studies conducted by NASA, IPC and JEDEC.

You will not find a single soldered wire connection in any production vehicle manufactured today. EVERY wire connection in the space shuttle or any satellite and EVERY wire connection in any military airplane, ship, boat or ground vehicle is a crimp connection.

Why soldered connections fail:

The solder binds the wire strands together and does not let them flex.
Solder contains flux which is corrosive, it wicks into the wire under the insulation and cannot be cleaned.​

Do yourself a favor and learn how to make a proper crimp connection.
Get a good pair of crimper's and the correct connectors to go with them. If you pick up the multi pack at Autozone and use their POS crimper you will have s*** connections. Panduit, Greenlee, and Amp all make good crimp tools.

 

[AGreekBoy]

i did a fj to bj conversion and soldered the wires for the glow plugs and some switches that i use other than that crimp everything

 

[lostmarbles]

For stranded wire a proper crimp connection is more reliable than a soldered connection.
This is not opinion, it is fact based on studies conducted by NASA, IPC and JEDEC.
You will not find a single soldered wire connection in any production vehicle manufactured today. EVERY wire connection in the space shuttle or any satellite and EVERY wire connection in any military airplane, ship, boat or ground vehicle is a crimp connection.
Why soldered connections fail:
The solder binds the wire strands together and does not let them flex.....Solder contains flux which is corrosive, it wicks into the wire under the insulation and cannot be cleaned.
Do yourself a favor and learn how to make a proper crimp connection.
Get a good pair of crimper's and the correct connectors to go with them. If you pick up the multi pack at Autozone and use their POS crimper you will have **** connections. Panduit, Greenlee, and Amp all make good crimp tools.

I've heard similar arguments before....... but yet I still solder all mine.
( x 2 what Pinhead said)

But I certainly don't use the corrosive flux that comes in liquid form. I use the same flux-cored solder that electronics people use on printed circuit boards. This flux exhibits its "cleansing properties" (and associated corrosive properties) only when it is heated to soldering temperatures. Heck - if it was really corrosive afterwards - think how short a PCB would last! The conductors on those are so thin you'd barely be able to measure them with a micrometer!

In my opinion, people go to a lot of trouble to justify cheaper/faster methods of doing things. But I try to avoid being "taken in" by their propaganda.

Another example of such propaganda is car manufacturers claiming "monocogue car bodies" are better than having a separate chassis.

But then I am an "old fart" and I admit I do resist change

 

[MadTripper]

Depends on what I'm doing I suppose. I like to solder but in some cases, crimping is just easier. When I was rewiring the dash in my Patrol, I soldered most items.

Tripper

 

[TOBASH]

depends on heat

hot wires will fall apart w/solder at areas near exhaust.

cold wires are better to solder.

This is why oxygen sensors always have crimps.

 

[Degnol]

I do crimp and solder with shrinkwrap as described by Mszekely. Rosin core solder should not be corrosive at all
Klein makes some great crimping pliers. Far different design than the usual ones.

JMO

Ed

 

[bandy rooster]

I do crimp and solder with shrinkwrap as described by Mszekely. Rosin core solder should not be corrosive at all
Klein makes some great crimping pliers. Far different design than the usual ones.

JMO

Ed

as mentioned before in the posts, i do think i might take off the plastic on the crimps, crimp it bare, then proceed to soldering it...

it is my view that this will have the most mechanical and electrical advantages... (followed by heat shrinking)


i figured using the rosin based solder would be best... but i'm not sure... its pretty pricey at radioshack but I think thats the way i'll go

 

[Moby]

For stranded wire a proper crimp connection is more reliable than a soldered connection.
This is not opinion, it is fact based on studies conducted by NASA, IPC and JEDEC.

You will not find a single soldered wire connection in any production vehicle manufactured today. EVERY wire connection in the space shuttle or any satellite and EVERY wire connection in any military airplane, ship, boat or ground vehicle is a crimp connection.

Why soldered connections fail:

The solder binds the wire strands together and does not let them flex.
Solder contains flux which is corrosive, it wicks into the wire under the insulation and cannot be cleaned.
​

Do yourself a favor and learn how to make a proper crimp connection.
Get a good pair of crimper's and the correct connectors to go with them. If you pick up the multi pack at Autozone and use their POS crimper you will have s*** connections. Panduit, Greenlee, and Amp all make good crimp tools.

+1

I used to solder everything because I thought it was better. There are still some things that need solder but not many (and try and find solder on an aircraft or OEM auto wiring). For me everything that can crimped gets an AMP PIDG or weatherpack terminal crimped with Crimpmaster (for PIDG) or MSD (for weatherpack and MSD Deutsch) crimpers.

Edit: Here is a good short article on quality terminals and crimpers and what they look like - AeroElectric Connection - Crimp Tools Comparison

 

[legion]

I'm an ex Panduit rep and have quite a bit of experience in this area. The nuclear industry years ago initiated requirements that made certain tooling (including crimp tools) to not "back off" until the crimp was completed.

Most of the better tools used in hi-zoot applications utilize what are called controlled cycle tools and although they're spendy compared to the indenter on your old pair of needle nose, they're known for making a crimp that you won't need to chase down and re-do later. This is the one I use... and it works like a charm.

Panduit model CT-1550

 

[Degnol]

as mentioned before in the posts, i do think i might take off the plastic on the crimps, crimp it bare, then proceed to soldering it...

it is my view that this will have the most mechanical and electrical advantages... (followed by heat shrinking)


i figured using the rosin based solder would be best... but i'm not sure... its pretty pricey at radioshack but I think thats the way i'll go

Rosin core = electrical
Acid core = plumbing

I don't know how muddy or salty it gets in an aircraft, but the engine bay, undercarriage and even the cab of my truck occasionally gets both.

Ed

 

[bsmith123]

wiring

"I don't know how muddy or salty it gets in an aircraft, but the engine bay, undercarriage and even the cab of my truck occasionally gets both.

Ed"

This is a good point. I work on aircraft wiring but I would use auto stuff for my FJ. Horses for courses ya know, Vehicle stuff is designed for vehicles where weight, vibration, and other compromises are not such a consideration.


Aircraft does not necessarily mean better and problem free--look up KAPTON wiring sometime, widely used OEM for aircraft but very problematic now.

I think the key is to use good quality automotive supplies OEM (or better aftermarket) and good quality stripping and crimping tools and you will be fine. properly done it should be stronger than the wire.

Solder makes a good electrical connection but if done incorrectly can cause you problems ---melted insulation, cold joints, stiffening the joint, and trapping moisture leading to corrosion.

Crimping is quicker, stronger, and can be done with less skill.

Also you can make improvements in chafe protection with split guard for over the cable and improve clamping using proper cushion clamps in place of the metal tabs riveted to the body

Dont forget drip loops where needed

The bigger the glob the better the job!

 

[rusty_tlc]

I've heard similar arguments before....... but yet I still solder all mine.
( x 2 what Pinhead said)

But I certainly don't use the corrosive flux that comes in liquid form. I use the same flux-cored solder that electronics people use on printed circuit boards. This flux exhibits its "cleansing properties" (and associated corrosive properties) only when it is heated to soldering temperatures. Heck - if it was really corrosive afterwards - think how short a PCB would last! The conductors on those are so thin you'd barely be able to measure them with a micrometer!

In my opinion, people go to a lot of trouble to justify cheaper/faster methods of doing things. But I try to avoid being "taken in" by their propaganda.

Another example of such propaganda is car manufacturers claiming "monocogue car bodies" are better than having a separate chassis.

But then I am an "old fart" and I admit I do resist change

Again this is not my opinion, it is not propaganda, it is fact, crimp connections are more reliable for stranded wire than solder.

PCB's are a whole other matter. A lot of my career has been dealing with solder and cleaning soldered assemblies, that and wiring harnesses.

I'm a manufacturing engineer. In my 25 years working in electronics I have mostly been in High Rel electronics ie; medical, military, space, automotive etc. You will not see a soldered stranded wire connection in ANY modern electronics assembly other than some cheap POS Chinese throw away crap.


But hey what do I know, if soldering makes you happy do it, it's not like a life depends on it.

 

[rusty_tlc]

as mentioned before in the posts, i do think i might take off the plastic on the crimps, crimp it bare, then proceed to soldering it...

it is my view that this will have the most mechanical and electrical advantages... (followed by heat shrinking)


i figured using the rosin based solder would be best... but i'm not sure... its pretty pricey at radioshack but I think thats the way i'll go

Probably the least reliable connection you could make. The disadvantages of both and the advantages of neither. Crimp the connection or learn to make a western union splice (google it).

The bad wrap crimp connections have comes from people who use crappy crimp tools like those found in the "assortment" kits at the local Kragen. They are utter crap.

A good wire crimp tool will cost less than a crappy soldering iron and you can use it anywhere.

 

[rsbcruiser]

So....Mr natural, I use crimp connections that then soldered and then shrink wrapped. So are you saying that the soldering step is a waist of my time or even WORSE? Resin core and all, enguiring minds need to know!

 

[rusty_tlc]

So....Mr natural, I use crimp connections that then soldered and then shrink wrapped. So are you saying that the soldering step is a waist of my time or even WORSE? Resin core and all, enguiring minds need to know!

As I posted earlier solder will not allow for flex in the connection, flux is corrosive. Even rosin.

Most rosin flux is RMA (rosin mildly active) it can be used for solid wire and printed circuit board assembly with little or no cleaning for consumer products. For automotive and other applications it must be removed from the assembly after the soldering is complete.

Get a good pair of good ratchet crimper's. They automatically set the correct crimp pressure. If you go cheap with the crimp tool you'll get crap connections.

I use the Buss heat shrink crimp connectors from NAPA. Crimp it, hit it with the heat gun and your done.

 

[Plowboy]

I was just in a parts store, Fleet Parts, in St. Maries, Idaho. They had shrinkwrap/solder connections. I have never seen such a product before. There is a ring of solder in the shrinkwrap. Slide the bare wire in and heat the connection up. Solder melt, must be a low temp solder, the shrinkwrap constricts and you have a solid connection. They demonstrated at the counter with a spade connection (10-12), After heating, I tried pulling out the wire while the spade was secured, not able to pull out. I bought a bag of everything. Kind of spendy, 5 connectors in a bag, and I bought 12 assorted bags, $30.00

 

[mikedickbek]

I crimp everything. I use a tool similar to this one and love it. I've had 'real' crimping tools with the different guage sizes in it, but this is the best and easiest one I've found.