Steering is way crazy. thinking of getting CCOT tie rod kit. Anyone have any experience with it? Would that be the best place to start?
thanks
thanks
sloppy steering
- Thread starter Lulu
- Start date
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Check your caster as well - especially if you have any kind of aftermarket lifts/suspension. If the caster is out, it will dart all over the road. To correct this get caster correction shims. If the steering wheel has slop in it - it may be due to a worn steering gear box, worn TRE's, etc. I thought there was a front end rebuild guide somewhere. . .
check your center arm...that's usually where the play is the worst. have someone wiggle the wheel and see if it is sloppy. fairly easy rebuild
I wouldn't buy gum from CCOT. [$1200 for half doors, sheesh...]
You can check your tie rod ends by hand. If they feel tight, start elsewhere: leaf spring bushings, tighten center arm and the 1st joint that connects to the steering box, replace rag joint between the steering box and the steering stabilizer.
Put your toes against the bottom of a front tire, grab the inside-top and try to wiggle the tire. If there's play there you need a knuckle rebuild.
If you need tie rod ends, get OEM ones, not the cheap Chinese crap that CCOT sells.
You can check your tie rod ends by hand. If they feel tight, start elsewhere: leaf spring bushings, tighten center arm and the 1st joint that connects to the steering box, replace rag joint between the steering box and the steering stabilizer.
Put your toes against the bottom of a front tire, grab the inside-top and try to wiggle the tire. If there's play there you need a knuckle rebuild.
If you need tie rod ends, get OEM ones, not the cheap Chinese crap that CCOT sells.
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks all. I'll do a search for front end rebuilds. I looked at the FAQ for steering but all I saw was about power steering conversions... that'll come later... just trying to get her drivable. And I am not a shade tree mechanic, so until I get some time off to go pick up a repair manual, honestly I have no idea what most of you just suggested.. haha. But I'm learning.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
- Thread starter
- #7
When I search for front end rebuild, I get an error about not enough memory?!? I ordered the FSM today and it will be here in two weeks. I took some pics of some of the linkages and the shaft going into the steering box for some opinions. Sorry for poor quality, couldn't find camara, took pics with phone.
The steering wheel has about 2 inches of play before the wheels move. The suspension is stock, no lift, no shackle reversal, no nothin. I'll try to learn all I can when the FSM gets here, just wanted to see if you guys recognized any problems before two weeks goes by.
Thanks
The steering wheel has about 2 inches of play before the wheels move. The suspension is stock, no lift, no shackle reversal, no nothin. I'll try to learn all I can when the FSM gets here, just wanted to see if you guys recognized any problems before two weeks goes by.
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #8
more cruddy pics
None of that stuff can b e evaluated for wear or slop by looking at it. Rotate the steering wheel back and forth and look for stuff that is moving when it shouldn't. Two inches of rotational play in the steering wheel is insignificant.
how easy?
I have been experiencing some DW. so I had a neighbor get behind the wheel (while I took a look at the linkage).
that suckers got play 
Heh. Same here...
Also, how do you "tighten" the link from the pitman arm to the relay rod? Its got a weird connection I've never seen before.
Also, how do you "tighten" the link from the pitman arm to the relay rod? Its got a weird connection I've never seen before.
Damn Lulu!! I would replace all of that stuff just to get rid of the crustaceans you got going there.
Bodean
Hot Damn
If you still have the stock steering box you can take a lot of the play out by adjusting the manual box. The adjustment is on the inside towards the motor. Loosen the nut and screw in the bolt (with a flat edge screwdriver or a coin if clearance is tight). You can take all of the play out of the steering wheel if it's not worn out.
Later,
Later,
Drag link end?
Take out the cotter and tighten with a screwdriver in the slot.
Manny, you can tighten the center arm some too. If the top has any threads showing, loosen the lock nut and crank it down some. If it needs a rebuild, I'd go with OEM parts or find a good used one. (I have one.)
Are you sure that's what that adjuster is for? I have heard otherwise. I'm not saying your wrong, just that I heard it was a preload or some such.
Thanks Eddy, got a rebuild coming from SOR...
glad I figured it out before the fj45run
2 more weeks
glad I figured it out before the fj45run
2 more weeks
MarcoPolo
Mud.. it's a life...
Exactly what I did after replacing tie rod ends and a front wheel alignment.
It's well behaved now.
Colorado Boy-74-FJ40
I may grow older but I refuse to grow up!
New rag joint did wonders for me.
Coolerman
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I'm not being a dick but...
that is NOT what that adjustment screw is for...Spreading this false information is going to cost someone a steering box or worse.
Please use search to find the threads that explains what the adjustment you mention is actually for.
The only way to get play out of your steering box is to remove it, disassemble it, add or subtract shims, then reassemble it.
You can also go HERE <<< this is a link... to see the procedure. Good luck!
Drag link end?
Take out the cotter and tighten with a screwdriver in the slot.
Yes, that is exactly what I was looking for. Sounds simple. Thanks for the tip!
I had numerous steering issues with the Junker. First was castor angle, probably not an issue for you if your truck has factory lift or close to it. As mentioned above have someone crank on the wheel while you inspect the following: Big things to look for:
Bent rods=replace them, call budbuilt and get HD ones cheaper than OEM stuff.
Steering link under the front core, look at it from the front and side and make sure there is not play side to side.
Tie rod ends. replace them all they are cheap and easy to do.
I ordered a replacment centerarm link from MAF, made by Fuji OEM toyo man. It was 100 buck and almost as cheap as a rebuild kit. I tried rebuilding my old one only to find it's housing was shot.
Another quick note: 2 inches of play really isn't that significant, If the play is is your steering box then I would consider this: GO POWER STEERING. Don't f*&k about with this manual stuff any longer and don't spend money on steering stuff you might have to get rid of altogether when you go power st.
If you choose a mini-truck setup, then you can keep and or replace (think ahead) all the center arm crap etc. If you go Saginaw you ditch a whole lotta stuff and get a stronger box and setup. I went minit-truck so I could keep alot of the stock stuff and break my head on down the road later for a sag. setup (yes I'm stupid). Good luck.
Bent rods=replace them, call budbuilt and get HD ones cheaper than OEM stuff.
Steering link under the front core, look at it from the front and side and make sure there is not play side to side.
Tie rod ends. replace them all they are cheap and easy to do.
I ordered a replacment centerarm link from MAF, made by Fuji OEM toyo man. It was 100 buck and almost as cheap as a rebuild kit. I tried rebuilding my old one only to find it's housing was shot.
Another quick note: 2 inches of play really isn't that significant, If the play is is your steering box then I would consider this: GO POWER STEERING. Don't f*&k about with this manual stuff any longer and don't spend money on steering stuff you might have to get rid of altogether when you go power st.
If you choose a mini-truck setup, then you can keep and or replace (think ahead) all the center arm crap etc. If you go Saginaw you ditch a whole lotta stuff and get a stronger box and setup. I went minit-truck so I could keep alot of the stock stuff and break my head on down the road later for a sag. setup (yes I'm stupid). Good luck.
