What NOW!? More FJ40 problems...

[baldboy]

Sooo.... My fuel filter was clogged with debris from the gas tank and stalling out the truck. I cleaned out the fuel tank and fuel lines and replaced the fuel filter. (Somewhere in between here the horn, hazard lights, and headlights shorted out)-Headlights work again for no reason whatsoever, but horn and hazards are dead.

Anyway, I start my truck (78 FJ40, 2F) and it runs strong choked but if I push the choke in it sputters and dies. It will drive strongly 1/2 choked but then the motor dies at stoplights. Starts right back up on full choke only, then runs at 1/2 (and dies at stops). It will not idle without the choke.

I did just change the coil wire (the last one broke)... but the new one does not feel or look like it fits correctly...

Would the PCV valve have anything to do with this? It feels clogged.

So...-Coil wire, PCV valve, or something else? and what is going on with the wiring? I didn't even touch it...

Thanks for any help you might offer

 

[oldIron]

The rough running still sounds like a fuel issue to me. When you choke it, you richen up the mixture to the carb. Opening the restriction by decreasing the amount of choke you have will lean out the fuel mixture. Sounds to me as though you still have a restriction some where.

On the electrical, sounds like a possible loose ground. Time to get out the volt/ ohm meter and start testing circuits. Search electrical and you will find tons of reading fun on the subject.

GL

Pete

 

[Rocky_LC]

A stuck open (or partly open) PCV valve will do this, as might a vacuum leak.

Change the PCV valve (I think they cost $4 at NAPA) first, since that's easy.

Then you can try looking for a vacuum leak (search - there's lots of posts on how to find one). Or you may just want to check the tightness of the bolts holding your mainfolds on).

Good luck.

Rocky

 

[Pin_Head]

Since you have been having electrical problems too, check the "engine" fuse and then check the idle fuel solenoid on the carb. If there is no power to the solenoid or if the solenoid isn't working it will run fine at high speed, but die at idle, like you described.

 

[baldboy]

Thanks guys, I will check all of these things tonight.

I forgot to mention- the ammeter is MAXXED OUT when the truck is running-it didn't used to do this.

Also, the exhaust is blowing black smoke-is this from running choked?

 

[Pin_Head]

Thanks guys, I will check all of these things tonight.

I forgot to mention- the ammeter is MAXXED OUT when the truck is running-it didn't used to do this.

Also, the exhaust is blowing black smoke-is this from running choked?

Which way is the amp meter pointing and what does it read when it is turned off?
Left is battery discharge. Middle is no net charge/discharge from battery and this is the normal position and what it should also read when it is off. Right is battery charging.

Black exhaust is consistent with running with the choke on.

 

[baldboy]

Amp Meter

The amp meter is almost all the way to the right when the motor is running. It sits near middle (about 1/16 inch to the right of center) when not running.

I also noticed that the alternator is searing hot after a short time.

If the guage indicates that the battery is charging I was thinking this might be due to me cranking the starter for extended periods without starting the motor when the fuel lines were clogged.

I have had a heck of a time with this truck in the last three weeks.

Thanks for all of the help so far. Any more is always appreciated.

 

[Nagalfar]

I think your Alt. being hot enough to cook with is the clue you are looking for, something is putting it at full charge, full time.. is your battery warm or hot as well? if it is its cooking like your alt. is, what they both have in common is the regulator and solenoid.. those might be a good place to start..

 

[cruiser88]

also the dirt and crap could have got passed the fuel filter if that was not already said

 

[baldboy]

what do you do if the dirt and rust gets past the fuel filter?

 

[zebrabeefj40]

The amp meter is almost all the way to the right when the motor is running. It sits near middle (about 1/16 inch to the right of center) when not running.

I also noticed that the alternator is searing hot after a short time.

Had a similar issue on my FJ60. Check the engine or charge fuse. I blew one or the other (can't remember which) and the alternator shot to full charge. Battery was boiling in less than a mile (fresh 90 amp Delco alternator). :whoops: Headlights were nice and bright though.

Something is telling the voltage regulator to push full charge out of the alternator. Might be as simple as recharging the battery with a battery charger instead of cooking the alternator. Or the regulator needs to be taken apart and the contacts cleaned. Or one of the wires to the regulator is broken and the regulator thinks there is no voltage and is calling for full charge from the alternator.

HTH,
Nick

 

[Pin_Head]

The amp meter is almost all the way to the right when the motor is running. It sits near middle (about 1/16 inch to the right of center) when not running.

I also noticed that the alternator is searing hot after a short time.

If the guage indicates that the battery is charging I was thinking this might be due to me cranking the starter for extended periods without starting the motor when the fuel lines were clogged.

.

If the battery has been discharged, then this is entirely normal. The amp meter should return to center in about 30 minutes of driving time or less it the battery is good.

This also indicates that your engine fuse is OK or it wouldn't be charging.

 

[baldboy]

Solved

Okay, I went to buy a new PCV valve today and of course no one had one, but it is on its way.

I started my cruiser and plugged the hose coming from the pcv valve with my finger..... RUNS PERFECT!


I put the hose back on and it continued to run just fine.

I guess the valve just needs to be replaced.


I traced wires for a few hours and still can't get the horn or fuel guage to work.

I'll get it worked out soon I hope.

Thanks for all of your help earlier....

 

[REZARF]

Not to sound overly simple but I would double check the fuse block for the horn and fuel guage...

... Although I think they are all tied in together with other things that seem to be working.

Patience is the key to owning a 40, just keep chugging, after a few years of chasing bugs, my cruiser is treating me much better.

Rezarf <><

 

[74fjsemistock]

Wheel it.That fixes all my problems.

 

[blueflame]

Even if your fuses look good, clean the contacts on the fuse box, they get corroded and have fooled me more than once.

Stillwater OK? Go Pokes.

 

[petescoffee]

Post up a picture of your carb.
Are all of your vacuum lines hooked up? and Hooked up right?
Mark A. of MArks Off Road saw that I didn't have a vacuum line where I needed one, because I desmogged, and gerry rigged on out on the Rubicon TRail and it Idled great after that. Still need to do the permanant fix, but it will have to wait until the end of summer.

I recall that on the 78 carb that there are some low voltage wires as well that activate solenoids or something.

Have you taken the top off of your carb and checked for debris? IF something got by your filter it could be causing internal issues.

 

[baldboy]

"Stillwater OK? Go Pokes."


Alright! I didn't think anyone even knew were OSU was.

I am currently going to school there getting a degree in biology.



As for my electrical issues, I remembered that I did recently remove the A/C unit that was wired into the fuse box, but I didn't think that would affect my flashers and horn...?

I dunno.... Further investigation will be given when I get some free time.