Brake Failure_uzj100 Power Brake booster repair- (1 Viewer)

[Thundercloud Cruiser]

Ok, I'm pretty new to the forum but I read everything on this topic and not seen anything about the issue I had 3 weeks after I bought my 2006 Land Cruiser with 110k on it. My brake went completely out and all the abs, trac, brake lights were on and a buzzer was on constant. I got out of the vehicle and tapped the booster assembly and the motor came back on and all lights went brakes worked imediatly after the booster built pressure. I thought this was it, but it came back on when I got home. I tapped again the motor on the bottom of the master brake assembly and it came back on again. But this did not last long. Eventually it would not come back on and you HAVE to be careful tapping this because there are magnet inside that you could break. But I pulled the whole system(Master assembly) out with some directions on this forum and pulled the motor off the bottom. Pulled it apart and the culprit was pretty obvious. The brushes had wore the copper plating off the armature or commentators inside the motor. I found a electric motor repair guy (this took a lot of calls) and this retired guy fixed in in his garage behind his house. Installed it and works great now. He only charge me 185 bucks, I gave him 200. The dealership wanted 1400 just for the motor and they are the ONLY ones that can sell you this motor new. See Pics

 

[uHu]

Did you say pics?

Sounds great. If done by a pro, it might even last longer than the original. Is it quiet when running?

Edit:
More background on this issue here:
booster-failure- -scary
high-dollar-repair

 

[APKhaos]

Despite the massive price from Toyota, its truly just a 12V motor. Nothing exotic or special.
Refinishing the commutator, new bushes, new bearings and its good to go for another 100K.
My original is still happy at 245K, but if/when it does fail it will be rebuilt with new bearings and straight back in.

 

[Thundercloud Cruiser]

Ok, I'm pretty new to the forum but I read everything on this topic and not seen anything about the issue I had 3 weeks after I bought my 2006 Land Cruiser with 110k on it. My brake went completely out and all the abs, trac, brake lights were on and a buzzer was on constant. I got out of the vehicle and tapped the booster assembly and the motor came back on and all lights went brakes worked imediatly after the booster built pressure. I thought this was it, but it came back on when I got home. I tapped again the motor on the bottom of the master brake assembly and it came back on again. But this did not last long. Eventually it would not come back on and you HAVE to be careful tapping this because there are magnet inside that you could break. But I pulled the whole system(Master assembly) out with some directions on this forum and pulled the motor off the bottom. Pulled it apart and the culprit was pretty obvious. The brushes had wore the copper plating off the armature or commentators inside the motor. I found a electric motor repair guy (this took a lot of calls) and this retired guy fixed in in his garage behind his house. Installed it and works great now. He only charge me 185 bucks, I gave him 200. The dealership wanted 1400 just for the motor and they are the ONLY ones that can sell you this motor new. See Pics

I have tried to get the pics to download but it wont let me. I've hit my max somehow. The motor is just as quiet as the old one. I think it works faster, but I am comparing to one that was worn out so, Im not sure but it builds the pressure really fast. in a few secs. It may have felt more pronounced in the pedal when I first put it in but now seems a very faint vibration in the pedal when it kicks on. I guess time will tell on the longevity, but I though worth the risk

 

[Rot Box]

Awesome. Looking forward to pics

 

[APKhaos]

Here are Thundercloud's pics

1. Interior prep for removing the MC/Boost module



2. Showing off a ridiculously clean heat shield. Shameful.



3. MC/Boost module removed. More shameful cleanliness.



More below.......

 

[APKhaos]

Pics continued:

4. MC/Boost module



5. Commutator from the brake boost motor. TCloud may provide more on this.

 

[kitb]

Is it possible to pull the electric booster motor without removing the MC and without having to bleed the brakes?
Thanks,
Kitb

 

[kitb]

All,
I just got word from Thundercloud Cruiser that you have to take the MC out to access the motor, I did just that, and you must remove the assembly. I traveled all over town today to find someone to rebuild my comutator. an finally found an old seasoned fella that would do it. Now check this out: This link,http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/p...-BOLT--BRAKE-ACTUATOR/2074130/4451924020.html

shows what other models share the same part, there is hope at the wrecking yard!
Thanks Thundercloud for getting a solution started!

Now to hit the wrecking yard tomorrow!
Cheers!

 

[rph74]

Wow this is a great thread and could potentially be a HUGE money saver for many of us!

 

[kitb]

Got it , I will have my booster motor by the end of the week, re wound, new brushes, and new commutator for 157.00 out the door. I am so glad get I did not have to deal with any thieves at the wrecking yard, or 1800.00 factory parts.
Short of the long, if you have these issues, pull the MC, check the electric motor.
Nuff said, I just saved enough money for ...

 

[uHu]

This thread -> into faq?
E.g instead of "No brakes!" in post 4, or combined with....

Could move the brake booster link next to the MC rebuild thread link in the faq...

 

[SupraTuRD]

Got it , I will have my booster motor by the end of the week, re wound, new brushes, and new commutator for 157.00 out the door. I am so glad get I did not have to deal with any thieves at the wrecking yard, or 1800.00 factory parts.
Short of the long, if you have these issues, pull the MC, check the electric motor.
Nuff said, I just saved enough money for ...

Any updates on the rebuilt booster motor?

 

[lx470cinci]

Here is a link to a business that will provide new (custom) commutators.
http://www.act-inc.com/Bigger.html

Here is a link to their quote page:
http://www.act-inc.com/Commutator2.html

I have never used them, but if you check out the quote page it would appear they know their stuff pretty dog gone well. So once one of us gets one made, we can all probably go in on a group buy to have one as a spare.

All right, who's going to be the first to give them the spec's from a tear down or send them their motor to measure?

Cheers,
Greg

 

[OregonLC]

I would think someone who has recently replace the assembly may have a spare motor core, assuming it was a DIY.

 

[grundsethp]

I just replaced my booster pump($1027) pn#47070-60010 on my lx470. Took about 4-5 hours. The whole brake assy needs to come out. I should have rebuild the master cylinder while the whole thing is out. See skidoo's brake master cylinder post for instructions on removing the assembly.

To separate the pump from the master cylinder:
1) remove red hydraulic line.
2) remove hose from the booster pump to the reservoir and drain the brake fluid into a bottle. Then remove brake master cap to allow all the brake fluid out thru the hose.
3) remove two power wires and label
4) remove three hex screws that mount the booster pump brackets to the master cylinder
5) unbolt the brackets and isolators from the old pump booster to thr new one.
6) remove the isolator on the rear of the electric motor and swap it to the new one. I forgot this one but lucky realized this before reassembly into the truck.
Reassemblely is reverse of the instructions.

I am finishing bleeding the system today. Any tips?

 

[lx470diy]

I had similar symptoms but fortunately an easy fix. The "ABS" and "Brake" lights came on and the buzzer sounded within a few seconds of turning the key to the "on" position. I heard the ABS motor relays in the relay box behind the battery clicking but did not hear the booster pump motor operating, so I connected an insulation-piercing test clip to the red heavy-gauge wire from the ABS module to the booster pump motor under the master cylinder. I connected the other test lead to ground to measure the voltage of the red wire when the ABS motor relays were closed. Not only did I see 13 volts on the red wire when the relays were closed (and 0 volts when the relays were open), but I also heard the booster pump motor running for the first time since the failure occurred. It took a while for the booster pump motor to pump up the accumulator, but eventually the "ABS" and "Brake" lights went dark and the buzzer stopped. Apparently just tugging on the red wire to connect the test clip was enough to fix whatever loose connection it had.

I pulled the rubber boot off the screw terminals for the two booster pump motor wires (the red one and a blue one) on the bottom of the ABS module. I disconnected the negative battery terminal from the battery and used a ratcheting Phillips offset screwdriver to tighten the two Phillips screws connecting lugs on the two wires to the ABS module. With only very moderate torque, I was able to tighten the screw for the red wire about 10 degrees of rotation. The brakes worked perfectly during a test drive.

Before you remove the entire ABS module/booster pump/accumulator/master cylinder assembly and introduce air into the brake hydraulic systems, it takes only a multimeter to measure the red wire voltage, a 10mm wrench to remove the battery terminal, and a Phillips offset screwdriver to retorque the screw terminals on the bottom of the ABS module to see, within a few minutes, if you have the same simple problem I had. You might want to read any OBDII codes before you disconnect the battery and erase any codes, although no codes were ever set over the course of my problem. Rather than using an insulation-piercing test clip, it may be better to just touch two test probes across the two screw terminals and measure the actual voltage across the red and blue wires going to the booster pump motor that way. Just be careful not short the red wire to the blue wire or any other ground point or voltage.

 

[CruiserSeanJohn]

So I am looking for some help. I am having similar problems with my '99 Cruiser and pulled the codes that I need to replace Brake Booster Pump. I have searched all wrecking yards and the best price I have found is $500. This thread has some people who have had these fixed. I have my MC out and have also taken off the booster (which was not easy with rusted screws). Any suggestions or places you know where I can buy a decent priced booster or get it fixed?

 

[petercruz333]

Hi i'm here living in the philippines. My 1999 lexus lx 470's brakes failed with the annoying buzzer on. I called several friends to ask them if they encountered the same problem before, one of them said to replace the assembly which cost $1800 plus freight. Another said to convert it to non abs system similar to the asian lc 100 diesel version. Another guy recommended this forum and i'm glad I did. I removed the booster as you guys said and I brought the 12v motor to a car starter specialist and all he did was replace the brush and the commutator. To keep from charging me a premium price, I told him that the motor is for an old toyota forklift, as a result I was only charged $55!
I couldn't have known this without this forum big thanks!

 

[CruiserSeanJohn]

Hi i'm here living in the philippines. My 1999 lexus lx 470's brakes failed with the annoying buzzer on. I called several friends to ask them if they encountered the same problem before, one of them said to replace the assembly which cost $1800 plus freight. Another said to convert it to non abs system similar to the asian lc 100 diesel version. Another guy recommended this forum and i'm glad I did. I removed the booster as you guys said and I brought the 12v motor to a car starter specialist and all he did was replace the brush and the commutator. To keep from charging me a premium price, I told him that the motor is for an old toyota forklift, as a result I was only charged $55!
I couldn't have known this without this forum big thanks!

So what pieces did you take in? Was it the entire brake booster? By chance do you have any pictures? Thank you for the incite as well...