For those who have experienced brake failure due to a failed booster pump, does this result in a total loss of stopping power? Just wondering if this issue could happen while on the highway and all of a sudden all stopping power is gone. I have read other threads about this issue but have not been clear if this could be a catastrophic failure while under way. Thanks.
Brake Failure_uzj100 Power Brake booster repair- (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Thundercloud Cruiser
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Great Info as my Brakes are a little soft compared to my Brothers 2006 LX470. Just gotta find someone willing to do the work.
It's the same as not having power brakes. And on a 6000lbs truck that's very bad. Once the lights come on you have maybe 1-3 stops before you loose the pressure assist. After that the pedal will go to the floor and not have much power to stop the truck.
A fix but the shop is located in Santa Ana, CA
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/so...-pump-on-master-cylinder.853803/#post-9715277
Are you satisfied with your rebuilt motor?
I am curious because I called a local electrical motor repair shop today. The shop manager/owner claims he's tried to rebuild many of these land cruiser/Lexus ABS motors and was never successful. He said the motors are very sensitive and that he was never able get the motors operating at correct factory performance. He actually suggested I buy new or at least reman motor/pump and Accumulator.
So today I called these guys you refereed, Euroton. And like you mentioned, 2 week lead time. Euroton is ISO and AS9100 certified company. They have an impressive process and product in their builds. However, when I asked the Euroton tech rep if he could provide validate of past customer satisfaction, with customer feedback, testimonials, etc., he told be that he could not validate it. He was also adamnet about not being strictly a motor rebuild shop, and express that in no way was Euroton a Pump/accumulator shop (I understood this going in)
I am really struggling with my decision. Irregardless I will rebuild the master cylinder piston while I have the ABS unit out.
options
1) Euroton rebuild motor only (90 day warranty) $250
2) Purchase a used motor/pump and accum $500-600
3) Purchase a "reman" complete ABS unit (hard to say if they are building or just inspecting and calling it "reman") $1200-1400
4) Buy new ABS unit $2k-$3k
Btw I just did a tear down of the ABS unit and posted a thread with some detailed pics. I searched and searched and could not find electric motor specific threads with good detail until tonight.
Last edited:
My 99 Land Cruiser hydraulic ABS pump went out.... is it the same as the brake booster pump you guys talk about in here?
A high pitch alarm came on with both brake and ABS lights on, I stopped and then when I tried to drive it again my brake pedal went all the way to the floor. I had it towed to a shop and their scanner put out the codes C1252 and C1256. They say the hydraulic ABS pump is bad.
I would appreciate any help on finding an affordable part or tips about how to repair it.
Thanks.
A high pitch alarm came on with both brake and ABS lights on, I stopped and then when I tried to drive it again my brake pedal went all the way to the floor. I had it towed to a shop and their scanner put out the codes C1252 and C1256. They say the hydraulic ABS pump is bad.
I would appreciate any help on finding an affordable part or tips about how to repair it.
Thanks.
Read through this thread - Master Cylinder Rebuild - DIY.
When something similar happened to my LC a couple years ago, it generated the following codes:
Check w/ some of the Mud vendors for prices ala @beno or others.
When something similar happened to my LC a couple years ago, it generated the following codes:
- C1251 - Pump motor is locked.
- C1252 - Hydraulic brake booster pump motor malfunction.
- C1256 - Accumulator low pressure malfunction.
Check w/ some of the Mud vendors for prices ala @beno or others.
Cruiserparts.com ....Get the brake boost master cylinder and send off motor for rebuild at euroton electric in Cali. reinstall yourself you may get out under 800 bucks. or buy the whole thing refurbed from ebay for 1500.00....or buy a new one for over 2300.00
.......Welcome to Hell .....good luck
Hello Folks,
I've searched the threads on this topic, but haven't come across my symptoms. I just bought a 2001 LC with 186k miles on it. The PO said that he replaced the ABS pump/accumulator back in August with a used one off of Ebay. A few days after I bought it, I got the high pitched "crickets" noise for a few seconds but no grinding. Also, it's only when the engine is cold. After it warms up, it doesn't happen. Also, if I tap the unit, it goes away. The ABS light and alarm shrill has only happened once. After shutting down and restarting, it was back to normal. Usually, just the high pitched whirl and for a few seconds. No loss of brake power. Any thoughts?
Many thanks in advance,
Chuck
I've searched the threads on this topic, but haven't come across my symptoms. I just bought a 2001 LC with 186k miles on it. The PO said that he replaced the ABS pump/accumulator back in August with a used one off of Ebay. A few days after I bought it, I got the high pitched "crickets" noise for a few seconds but no grinding. Also, it's only when the engine is cold. After it warms up, it doesn't happen. Also, if I tap the unit, it goes away. The ABS light and alarm shrill has only happened once. After shutting down and restarting, it was back to normal. Usually, just the high pitched whirl and for a few seconds. No loss of brake power. Any thoughts?
Many thanks in advance,
Chuck
Yea it's probably your motor chewing up the bearings ....
Hell who knows
If you don't want to spent 1-2k I suggest you sell it.
Don't forget that these same pumps were used in 4runners, Tundras, Priuses, GX470s, etc... Don't limit yourself to paying a premium for a Cruiser part. There are literally thousands of these pumps in wrecking yards around the country and most people don't have the first clue at how valuable they are.
I found in my area Toyota/Lexus parts are not to be easily found in wrecking/junk yards. There is too many people rebuilding them and putting them back on the road.
Additionally, if you happened to get lucky and find one of these compatiable electric motors they're still priced as high or higher as a reman'd motor from eBay, etc..and you really have no way to validate the condition of the motor without disassembling and inspecting the commutator. You're buying an "AS IS" part at risk and paying at least $300.00.
Cruiserparts offers a core charge, however, there is no telling what condition the master cylinder they send you may be in (most likely not very good shape). When they sent mine to me I found that after install there were leaks in places there shouldn't be.
This whole process is really a job for Toyota mechanics using new parts. That's just my opinion.
Last edited:
Thanks for all the info. If I sold it, I would end up discounting it enough for the new buyer to take care of it. So, I might as well suck it up and pick up a night job to pay for it. haha. Pretty discouraging overall, though!
I opted for replacing the bump and accumulator, through Mud vendor ranma21- I also rebuilt the master cylinder. About 1200 all together. One could save a couple of hundred dollars by rebuilding the motor and replacing the accumulator with a new one.
Gil
Gil
Thanks Gil. This seems like a reasonable approach.
LRIwater,
I have nearly two years now on a rebuilt motor (Santa Ana shop). Runs fine.
uHu
Bridgeburner
Opened up the motor of the brake booster from my MY 2004 yesterday. The booster pump had been a bit noisy, so I expected the motor to be on it's way out. There was quite a bit of debris inside the motor, and on the drive between pump and motor, but otherwise it looked good. Not much wear on the commutator, and the brushes even have a bit left. The bearings have a tiny bit of play, so I suppose I will try to change them. The cruiser has done about 270 k km.
I took the motor to an Electric Motor Repair & Rewind shop. They looked it over and claimed it looked good. Only the fraying "cable" to one brush worried him. Even the bearings he said were OK. He didn't have the right type of brass brushes in stock, so he couldn't help me there.
I'm thinking of cleaning it up, change brushes and bearings if possible, and put it back together again. Also do the master piston service described here: Master Cylinder Rebuild - DIY
So, now I need a source for brushes -- is there anyone who has sourced them already? It can be hard to find the right composition, size and connector.
Anyone knows how to change the "hidden" bearing? How is the driver to the pump fastened?
Some pics:
Not exactly clean inside
After blowing away some dust, it looks much better:
I took the motor to an Electric Motor Repair & Rewind shop. They looked it over and claimed it looked good. Only the fraying "cable" to one brush worried him. Even the bearings he said were OK. He didn't have the right type of brass brushes in stock, so he couldn't help me there.
I'm thinking of cleaning it up, change brushes and bearings if possible, and put it back together again. Also do the master piston service described here: Master Cylinder Rebuild - DIY
So, now I need a source for brushes -- is there anyone who has sourced them already? It can be hard to find the right composition, size and connector.
Anyone knows how to change the "hidden" bearing? How is the driver to the pump fastened?
Some pics:
Not exactly clean inside
After blowing away some dust, it looks much better:
