need help removing AHC rear shocks

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BadReligion

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Aug 23, 2011
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Location
Reno, NV
Had the day free so I thought I'd install the OME lift that just arrived yesterday on our 2004 LX. Figured I could do the whole thing in a day...wrong!

I knew I was off to a bad start when I couldnt get the spare tire down. Previous owner had wheel locks installed (even on the spare lowering reciever) so I had to remove the whole F'ing spare carrier.

Didnt take long to get the old rear coils out but the AHC rear shocks are a major headache! I was able to remove the two 12mm bolts holding the AHC hydaulic line into the shock..made a huge mess in the process but I cant get to the 22mm nut on the top of the shock. Combo wrench wont fit, nor will a 22mm socket.

Any ideas?

I'm calling it a day before a wrench goes through the rear window. Probably head down to sears and see if I can find a better tool for the job and will try again tomorrow.

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Get a 22mm flex head Gearwrench. Works like a charm. At least it did for my conventional shocks on the LC. I have not removed the AHC from my LX.

Sears didn't have one that big. I seem to remember I special ordered it on Amazon or through NAPA.

You might find a 7/8" that will work
 
I managed to get a locking wrench on the upper nut and spin the shock body. If all else fails, go ahead and peel the carpet back and get ready for the shock mount hole mod.
 
Small angle grinder worked best for me as I did not want to drill through the body. Just take your time and steady yourself and you will have one off in 5 min. Cut it on the underside of the mount below the bottom washer but above the top of the shock body. Watch the sparks they get hot.
 
We built a wrench for the project. A 1/2" 22mm socket welded to a bar with a bit of angle built in to allow a good twist. From there we lock down on the dust shield and hope it spins. If the dust shield busts loose of the body, get ready for the grinder :D
 
I did the lock wrench and then used an oil filter remover on the shock body to twist the shocks. i don't think I ever tightened them properly back but that was two years ago and am still hitting the sand every weekend without fail ;-) good luck.
 
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22 spanner & then bought a filter wrench & had to go in infront of the axle and feel by hand, only place I could get enough movement, then had another pair of hands on the filter wrench and slowly but surely it eventually came off
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thanks everyone for the replies! lots of good ideas. Shane, I think that 22mm spanner would work great. If it doesnt work, cruiseroutfit's idea of welding a bar onto a 22mm socket should do it. Just have to wait another 2 hours for sears to open... :wrench::wrench:
 
I used that 22 because it was the only one that fit into the recess like in your pic below

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I first tried a socket but I didn't have space above the socket to get it in place, then a flat 22 would just slip as there was no grip so 3rd time lucky with that 22 as it fit into the recess, but I was ready to cut a hole in the floor by then, so I know the frustrations

Post some pics & details of your OME swap, as next time I may just go that route, especially after $1380 for dampers & $1000 for used pump & $300 for dealerships time on computer
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A thought... have you tried putting in the wrench, then clamp down with vise grip to the recessed bracket of some sort? Curious... does that recessed bracket move around... circled in red. If it does, I think you can loosen it around with some long piece of pipe (slipped over the wrench?)


I used that 22 because it was the only one that fit into the recess like in your pic below

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I first tried a socket but I didn't have space above the socket to get it in place, then a flat 22 would just slip as there was no grip so 3rd time lucky with that 22 as it fit into the recess, but I was ready to cut a hole in the floor by then, so I know the frustrations

Post some pics & details of your OME swap, as next time I may just go that route, especially after $1380 for dampers & $1000 for used pump & $300 for dealerships time on computer
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Got 'em!!

22mm offset wrench with a pipe wrench did the trick. Had to cut off the other end of the wrench so I could slip a cheater bar over it. I had a hard time finding the wrench though. Anymore, sears is pretty worthless with their in store tool selection. Ended up finding one at harbor freight so i didnt feel too bad hacking it up.

At first I put the pipe wrench on the shock body but that must have broken loose from the top mount since something was still allowing the shock to rotate. At that point I was about ready to hack into the carpet but tried one more time positioning the pipe wrench just above the shock body and grabbing the metal just above the rubber bushing. That worked. Install was much easier without the stupid AHC bracket on top of the OME shocks.

dfrelich- I did try using locking pliers to grab that bracket but the shock body would still rotate.

Pretty much the same process for the front, except was able to grab the shock body with the pipe wrench. Again, made a huge mess on my newly expoxy'd garage floor, but it seems to clean up with some acetone. Now I see why some shops charge 4-6hrs just for AHC removal.

Going to call it a night and finish up the torsion bars this week. Hopefully no surprises there. Then I'll post up some pics when its all put back together and the new 305/65/18 BFG ATs are on.

Thanks again for all the help. :beer:

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Rather than a pipe wrench some have used chain strap wrench with good results in holding the shock body.
 
I drilled a hole in the shocks and inserted a bolt, it kept the shock from twisting enough to get the nut off. Used a cheater bar that nut was on there tight after 9 years.
 
The hydraulic pump ( just the pump itself) is separately available for $300+/-. Look our our website front page (activesuspensionsystems.com) for the part numbers for the pump, shaft seal and O-rings.
 
I will be tackling this soon. As my LX is older and in the NE, I doubt everything will come off as easily as @BadReligion. Any additional advice?
 
I did my lx a few months ago and am very happy with the results. I also ran into the problem with the rear shock mounts. I ended up using a low profile O2 sensor socket, actually worked very well. B/c of the offset of the socket, I had to reset every few cranks, but it wasn't as bad as it could have been. Just wanted to throw another option at you if nothing else works. It is a bit of a booger to get at the top rear mounts, but I honestly didn't find it as difficult as some have made it out to be. The hydraulic attachments for the AHC make it more difficult than a standard LC setup, but with a little patience, you'll get it. After that, it's all pretty straight forward. I made the switch working in my garage by myself w/jack stands in just about 8 hours.


...via IH8MUD app
 

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