No HID for me - which replacement bulbs?

[spokanecruiser]

After reading all these threads, I decided that I just don't want to screw around with HID. Daniel Stern recommends three replacement bulb:

GE Nighthawk
Phillips Extreme Power
Narva Range Power

Has anyone used any of these? Are they significantly better than OEM?

 

[FullyLitLED]

None of the above. Go to your local toyota dealer and order the HALO brand bulbs. I installed some in my uncles merceded benz, they are pretty close to the "HID" look. But IMO, there is no headache with HID..just make sure to get 35w kit!

 

[Trunk Monkey]

All those bulbs are are blue tinted, they don't put out any more lumens. I'd consider the new Philips HIR2s. The base requires a trim, but the lumen output (1850 or so) can't be beat.

 

[Brock]

I know some dont...but I have always liked the Sylvania SilverStars for usable white light...and some increase in lumens on same watt bulbs.

LX470
Lo-H1ST
High-9005SU


Land Cruiser
9006 ST
9005 SU

 

[SupraTuRD]

I second Trunk Monkey... HIR2's are great. I have them in my low beams and fogs. Love them.

 

[LCHardriver_02]

Would you replace your well used brights and DRLs with HIRs?

 

[SR.GRINGO]

Would you replace your well used brights and DRLs with HIRs?

Yes. I have both low/high in HIR your best choice short of a projector retrofit.

 

[Desert Yeti]

I put the HIR's in my truck and can tell a big difference between mine and the other two '99's I know of.

 

[Mxndrnks]

I really didn't feel like I saw a conceivable difference when I did the HIR upgrade. I since went the HID route and it was one of the best $70 I spent on my rig.

Curious why you think doing the HID is not worth it.

Although I did not feel the HIT bulbs were worth it to me..... A lot of people speak highly of them.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

The HIRs are good because you maintain stock wattage draw on the system and increase the lumen output a lot. While the HIDs are great for output, you've maybe got to use a relay in the system - maybe not - and the housings aren't designed for that brightness. Also, the HID kits are cheap and don't have the best reliability. It seems like most people plan on replacements for the price they paid. The HIRs are were made by Toshiba and now by Philips. I have the HID kit and love the bright light, but I also know they aren't going to last and probably aren't the best solution taking being considerate of others on the road.

 

[jonharis]

I really like the SilverStar Ultras in my Subie. Very white light. Much brighter than stock. Ive had them for 2 years and lights are always on when I drive. I plan on the same for the LC when something goes out.

 

[bamabrock]

The HIRs are good because you maintain stock wattage draw on the system and increase the lumen output a lot. While the HIDs are great for output, you've maybe got to use a relay in the system - maybe not - and the housings aren't designed for that brightness. Also, the HID kits are cheap and don't have the best reliability. It seems like most people plan on replacements for the price they paid. The HIRs are were made by Toshiba and now by Philips. I have the HID kit and love the bright light, but I also know they aren't going to last and probably aren't the best solution taking being considerate of others on the road.

I've seen you state repeatedly that the HID kis are not reliable. I'm wondering on what that is based on. I've used the DDM kits in vehicles and UTVs for five years and have never had a problem.

 

[options2]

Agree with others ^... HIR bulbs are the best non HID light output.

I have not really had any issues with HIDs in the past, but my past kits were not from DDM. I am having a slight issue now with my 55 watt kit from DDM, but I am going to add the wiring harness and see if it corrects this issue. It seems like they are just under powered.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I've seen you state repeatedly that the HID kis are not reliable. I'm wondering on what that is based on. I've used the DDM kits in vehicles and UTVs for five years and have never had a problem.

Look through 2000's big thread. Several people there posted that their ballast lasted a year, or was DOA. Also seems like common sense that reliable and cheap don't equate.

 

[bamabrock]

Look through 2000's big thread. Several people there posted that their ballast lasted a year, or was DOA. Also seems like common sense that reliable and cheap don't equate.

The post I saw were from those using 55w ballast on stock wiring, thus requiring a relay. Maybe I missed something.

 

[LCHardriver_02]

I am going to add the wiring harness and see if it corrects this issue. It seems like they are just under powered.

After having purchased the $12.50 (sale) wiring harness and installed it, I would purchase the individual components and wire it up with #12 wire, using the extra connections from the HID bulbs as connection points to the vehicle harness (switching of the relay). It really only includes an inline fuse holder, fuse, a 30A relay and base, along with wire in a sheath and connectors. It would be very easy to fabricate and you can get the various components from Amazon cheap. Also, the relay that comes with the harness from DDM does not come with a method for hard mounting. The relays I was looking at on Amazon had a tab for mounting.

Just my two cents after having recently purchased all of the components.

 

[RobRed]

LC Maybe you should share your component list for others watching this thread?

I'm not going the HID route either, though I dearly love them on my Audi. In my opinion the cost of doing a quality HID install, both in time and money, is about $1000. Sure people by these "kits" but the reflector housing in a 100 series isn't really up to the task of properly utilizing HID so fabrication of a projector system is needed. Then to do a really OEM job there needs to be auto-leveling but that's a whole other topic. I'm not trying to poo poo those that have installed an HID solution but unless you went all in I think you just brightened your headlights at the expense of other people. Proper HID has very minimum off axis light scatter - I have yet to see an HID retro that handles that very well. LX owners have something on us as the LX projector seems to work pretty well as an HID retro.

In my case I will install some Philips 3rd Gen HIR bulbs in the low beam and opt for something like a Rigid LED array on the front bumper.

 

[LCHardriver_02]

The components that I mentioned were specific to the wiring harness that is available through DDM for $12.50, plus $15 shipping. To do it over again, I would recommend purchasing the following hardware and making your own wiring harness. A couple of nice things about building it yourself is the individual selection of components and the specific lengths of wire, allowing you to mount the relay exactly where you want it.

Here is the list:

In-line Fuse Holder: You can buy these on Amazon or I found them at Lowes too. The DDM comes with a single fuse and holder. I would recommend using one for each bulb to help isolate the two head lamps in the event you blow a ballast while on the road.
Amazon.com: In-line ACT Water-resistant Fuse Holder - 10 AWG: Electronics

Relay and base:
Amazon.com: Absolute RLS125 12-VCD Automotive Relay SPDT 30/40A: Electronics and
Amazon.com: 12 VDC 5-PIN RELAY SOCKET: Electronics

If you use the DDM HID bulbs, you can use the 9006 connectors that come with the HID bulbs. My DDMs came with both the male and female connectors on each lamp with several inches of wire that can be used as pigtails for later mounting. I clipped them off with a set of dikes.

Then use some #14 minimum wire (I would suggest #12 to minimize the resistance at start up) and wire it all up.

The larger wire is to be used on the power feed, through the aux relay N.O. contacts, through the 9006 connector to connect to the HID ballast and then to ground for each bulb. The other 9006 connector is wired to the relay coil to connect to the vehicle's headlamp connections for switching of the aux relay.

Hopefully, this makes sense. If not, let me know and I will adjust for future readers.

 

[DWNUNDR]

I had the DDM thick ballasts in my Forester for about 3 yrs and NEVER had an issues... and I live on rough country roads with a lot of vibration which would typically affect them... most issues are had with the slim ballast setups...

 

[Mxndrnks]

I have had zero issues with the DDM kit as well. I also always carry (2) spare OEM bulbs in case I ever have an issue... Unplug the HID plug in the oem bulb.... +/- 5 min done. Perfect trail fix.... As LCH mentioned, I would recommend buiding your own harness. I am using the harness from DDM and will eventually make my own for a cleaner install.

For non HID everyone raves about HIR bulbs. I tried them and was extremely disappointed in the results. Light output difference for me was negligable. Just disappointing.....