Anyone have a CV Joint Failure? (1 Viewer)

[pint]

Mine have never been touched and have 133K on them. I had a little leakage after the medium OME lift at 75K, but it stopped pretty quickly. How long have you guys gone without touching these babies? I'm not having any problems, just asking. Don't want to stupidly ignore something, but don't want to spend money if not needed. Everything else on the truck was been maintained to the Nth degree! Thoughts?

 

[9toys]

no more leakage and no noise on tight turns...probably ok. I had to do mine at 135k. they were slinging grease on the control arms and shocks.

 

[spressomon]

pint: I would say leave well enough alone until such time the CV's present issues such as leaking or binding. You can get a boot rebuild kit from Toyota that includes the lube, boots and clamps for $40 or less per side but I'd wait.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

At that age I would buy two news ones along with rebuild kits. Slap them in and have ready-to-go backups. You could take them on crazy trails as spares OR keep them for when you need boots. This way you can keep swapping (like me).

 

[Travis351]

203,500 on mine. I lost a lot of grease at CM2009, but the they are not leaking on the highway. Like spresso, I think I'll wait for a consisitant leak or binding before doing any repairs on them.

 

[pint]

Cool...that's what I wanted to hear guys. I don't want to be stupid, but don't really see a problem right now. Will be hitting a few trails over the next 2 weeks, so we'll see if I get any leakage...for $40 per side and a few hours of my time, it may be worth the PM???

 

[macneill]

Nope. Just front diff meltdown. Other than that, all good...

 

[spressomon]

Cool...that's what I wanted to hear guys. I don't want to be stupid, but don't really see a problem right now. Will be hitting a few trails over the next 2 weeks, so we'll see if I get any leakage...for $40 per side and a few hours of my time, it may be worth the PM???

From my experiences to date with my Hundy CV's (I've rebooted/lubed 6 of them now plus 6 replacement CV shaft assemblies including 2 POS NAPA units) I'd leave well enough alone until they start puking significantly. Then reboot until your heart's content. They're finicky little boogers to keep from leaking especially at max lift height; new or old boots/clamps.

FYI & FWIW: The most recent boot kit (Toyota OEM) I bought earlier this year had slightly different boot clamps. Looks like Toyota listened and beefed them up a little. So far these are holding tight...better than any I've run before.

 

[bluecruiser]

What is the price that you guys are getting the new Toyota CV's for? and from where?

Thanks

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

203,500 on mine. I lost a lot of grease at CM2009, but the they are not leaking on the highway. Like spresso, I think I'll wait for a consisitant leak or binding before doing any repairs on them.

I love the fact that not only the CV but the entire 100 has held up very well at 203K. I also must add that is was tested like no other 100 in Moab with a stock 2pinion front diff IIRC.

 

[i4c4lo]

I have had 2 CV's fail - the actual CV was cracked both times. I found the cracked CV's during overhaul of the leaking boots. I haven't tried the Napa brand, I've always used the OEM. I've been fortunate enough that these were all done in my own driveway or friends driveway.

 

[Liam]

how hard is it to replace them?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Just dropped the truck off to have the boots replaced this morning. Boy, the OEM boot kit is deeeeluxe. Includes grease and everything.

 

[Liam]

Just dropped the truck off to have the boots replaced this morning. Boy, the OEM boot kit is deeeeluxe. Includes grease and everything.

what are you paying to get it done? All in?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Well, that's a funny story. I called a local shop that does CV's only, they quoted me $45 for materials, $165 per side to pull and reboot. That was a HELL of a lot cheaper than I'd read about on here. I already had the boot kits from Toyota. So, for grins I called the local dealer and asked what the shop rate was without the parts. Guy I had on the phone said one side billed out at 1.9 hours and there was an overlap, both sides was 3.3 hours. Their shop rate is $105 at hour. So, with the price being about equal, I went with the dealership, figuring they'd be more familiar with the Cruiser, less likely to F up my ABS, etc.

Dropped the truck off this morning and talked with a service writer. Told him what I'd been told and got the look. "Uh, typically our cost for a CV is $329 per side, with parts". I told him I had the parts already and didn't have the name of who I'd talked with. He said they could make the $300 price work and I added on an oil change.

So, I get a call at 11a asking about the DS axle. The PS had the torn boot, they've done it, do I really want the DS one done since it's not torn and only barely leaking? I said that for the price difference, only 1.4 hours more labor, 120k on the truck, it was time to just to it as a PM. He was fairly relucatant, but agreed.

Now it's 430p. I just called to see if it's done. "Tech is struggling with the truck because apparently you have to pull the whole steeing knuckle apart on these trucks. Most cars you can just swing that out of the way." I say "really, I looked in the FSM and you just pull the c-clip off the axle, undo the arms and swing the knuckle out of the way." "Well, he's struggling, it'll be another hour".

Great. Give me a solid axle, knuckles, and axle seals I can replace at home . . .

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Great. Give me a solid axle, knuckles, and axle seals I can replace at home . . .

No....don't compromise....find a better shop/mechanic.

 

[spressomon]

Well, that's a funny story. I called a local shop that does CV's only, they quoted me $45 for materials, $165 per side to pull and reboot. That was a HELL of a lot cheaper than I'd read about on here. I already had the boot kits from Toyota. So, for grins I called the local dealer and asked what the shop rate was without the parts. Guy I had on the phone said one side billed out at 1.9 hours and there was an overlap, both sides was 3.3 hours. Their shop rate is $105 at hour. So, with the price being about equal, I went with the dealership, figuring they'd be more familiar with the Cruiser, less likely to F up my ABS, etc.

Dropped the truck off this morning and talked with a service writer. Told him what I'd been told and got the look. "Uh, typically our cost for a CV is $329 per side, with parts". I told him I had the parts already and didn't have the name of who I'd talked with. He said they could make the $300 price work and I added on an oil change.

So, I get a call at 11a asking about the DS axle. The PS had the torn boot, they've done it, do I really want the DS one done since it's not torn and only barely leaking? I said that for the price difference, only 1.4 hours more labor, 120k on the truck, it was time to just to it as a PM. He was fairly relucatant, but agreed.

Now it's 430p. I just called to see if it's done. "Tech is struggling with the truck because apparently you have to pull the whole steeing knuckle apart on these trucks. Most cars you can just swing that out of the way." I say "really, I looked in the FSM and you just pull the c-clip off the axle, undo the arms and swing the knuckle out of the way." "Well, he's struggling, it'll be another hour".

Great. Give me a solid axle, knuckles, and axle seals I can replace at home . . .

That's damn sad TM! FYI: I can get the CV axle out in 45-minutes flat now. Its just not that big a deal.

Just do it yourself. You just need the steering knuckle puller and a large ball peen hammer in addition to basic hand tools, wrenches, sockets.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

No....don't compromise....find a better shop/mechanic.

I like to do my own work. I can tear apart a solid axle easily and with Marlin's seals, leaks are going to be a thing of the past. Why can't they make CV boots out of Kevlar or something?

Just do it yourself.

Yep, I know. With the exception of the puller, I have all the tools. What I don't have this week is time. We leave on vacation this weekend, so I needed it done before then.

I was really hoping your NAPA CV's had been the answer. No down time, just yank and replace, rebuild the OEM's on the bench.

 

[spressomon]

I like to do my own work. I can tear apart a solid axle easily and with Marlin's seals, leaks are going to be a thing of the past. Why can't they make CV boots out of Kevlar or something?



Yep, I know. With the exception of the puller, I have all the tools. What I don't have this week is time. We leave on vacation this weekend, so I needed it done before then.

I was really hoping your NAPA CV's had been the answer. No down time, just yank and replace, rebuild the OEM's on the bench.

You already know this but I think most Hundy owners, especially the "wheelers" in the group, should have 4-OEM CV shaft assemblies: 2-running and 2-on the bench (or at least one in the rig on longer more remote trips) ready to be swapped in as necessary. Then it gives you some 'buffer' time to reboot with the OEM boot/lube kit.

Like you my woes seem to come right before a planned trip!

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Well, they honored the book time and were sniffing out who it was that gave me that quote. Weird that they're so high over book hours.

Time to find some OEM joints in a yard, rebuild them, and have some spares. And buy a ball joint puller.