The return springs are on wrong. One needs to be on the outside. I'm not sure that it matters.
I'm still bleeding the wheel cylinders with PTFE tape on the threads of the bleeder screws. The bleeder tube is oriented like a plumbing trap in opposite, with an air bubble set in a loop of bleeder tube, at an elevation above the wheel cylinder. The idea behind this is that the system has can let gravity sort-out the bubbles at the level of the wheel cylinder. Because the PTFE is disallowing hydraulic fluid from leaking out the thread interface at the bleeder, it can be opened a bit more to move a greater volume of bubbly fluid. I really don't think that adjusting wheel cylinder shoes is going to help actual bleeding because the wheel cylinder pistons are under spring tension at the brake shoe, they don't need to be pressed against the drum for fluid to escape. It could help to adjust the pistons so they basically don't move during bleeding, but, that is too much work, and for what, to save a few ounces of hydraulic fluid. Really, I can bleed the brakes, in accord with the manual, without all the crawling on the floor for adjuster adjusting, and be confidently on the road within an hour, and I do it every time the reservoirs look even a bit cloudy (twice-a-year).
