You’re re doing the rear brakes on your 69 fj40

[6f40j9]

Are you buying everything new (cylinders, shoes, drums, hardware)?
I assume I can swap in newer cylinders and get rid of the 9mm fittings?
Is there a kit or am I going to cruiserteq and getting everything individually?
I haven’t pulled the drums off since I bought it and the last time I drove it, the fluid for the rear disappeared and I just want to start fresh. Does it make sense to change the springs and keepers or will they work with newer cylinders?

 

[Its me shaneus]

Re did my March of 70 FJ40 this past fall. In my case finding wheel cylinders was tough and finding cylinder rebuild kits was also tough.

Eventually found NOS wheel cylinders, but even these had to be opened and given a quick hit with a hone and polish on the steel parts.

Wheel cylinder kits from amazon (raybestos) were available to order but first set came in with 3ea 1” bore kits and 1 ea 7/8” bore kit. All had the same part number on box. Second set were correct but by the I had found NOS parts mentioned above. Took months.

My drums looked new once oil was cleaned out of them. This was no huge surprise as my ride had only about 45k total miles. Axle seals needed changed (source of oil in drums). Axle seals are ready to put up a fight when you go to pull them.

Spring were good with no concern from me about re use. Brake cleaner made them look new and black.

40 years ago I had another 1970 40, back then was able to get “Napa master kit” that had all springs. Had drums turned and shoes re lined and ground to match drums new ID. Old school shops used to do that kind of work.

Not sure about wheel cylinders being interchangeable between 9mm versions and 10mm. Even though the NOS parts I got were “right” and fit, they were very different internally than the ones I took off.

Lot of rambling and little help to say - save everything until you are certain you no longer need. And that brakes took months for me. Not a daily driver and I also had rear differential apart so no big deal, but it still took forever to get a few basic bits. Could have maybe just spent my way to the finish line, but it aint my daily driver and i had the time and know how.

 

[brian]

why are we doing the brakes?
shoes worn out?
something leaking?
seized wheel cylinder?

if its just shoes, its just getting new hardware.
if something is leaking or seized its getting new from the bottom up.

 

[igotta40]

Are you buying everything new (cylinders, shoes, drums, hardware)?
I assume I can swap in newer cylinders and get rid of the 9mm fittings?
Is there a kit or am I going to cruiserteq and getting everything individually?
I haven’t pulled the drums off since I bought it and the last time I drove it, the fluid for the rear disappeared and I just want to start fresh. Does it make sense to change the springs and keepers or will they work with newer cylinders?

Yes, except the springs & keepers. A number of decades ago I replaced the rear axle of my 1974 with one from my 1970 parts truck, and I swapped over my 1974 brakes to it. So yes, it can be done. If I recall correctly, the 70 axle also had 9mm fittings, which is why I swapped the brakes. The reason I retrofitted the older axle was that a so-called mechanic rebuilt my differential and forgot to tighten the pinion nut, which led to a catastrophic failure. It was easier to just swap the whole axle.

 

[MDH33]

Dual reservoir master is more a priority upgrade than deleting the 9mm parts

 

[Skreddy]

I like to do the 76 (77?) and newer rear wheel cylinders. Need to do a little line building but I find they bleed easier since they are plumbed in series, not in parallel. Then, new double reservoir master, get NiCopp lines and 10mm tube nuts and bend and flare all your own lines.

Swapping to front disc or keeping drum? (I think you’re still 4 wheel drum).

 

[Skreddy]

Oh, and then all new soft lines with 10mm fittings. I can scrounge up part numbers I used when I did this if you’re interested. I used Autozone soft lines because they were drastically cheaper than Toyota and I’m cheap.

 

[6f40j9]

why are we doing the brakes?
shoes worn out?
something leaking?
seized wheel cylinder?

if its just shoes, its just getting new hardware.
if something is leaking or seized its getting new from the bottom up.

I figured I’d replace everything since I’m in there trying to figure out where the brake fluid went. I can’t see any leaks along the main lines.

 

[6f40j9]

Dual reservoir master is more a priority upgrade than deleting the 9mm parts

I did that already. That’s how I knew the rear fluid was MIA.
I am going to go through the front (disc) brakes too, as they didn’t work like they should’ve when the rears went dry.
That’s a whole other thread (a kit of unknown origin on a front end I got off marketplace).

 

[6f40j9]

I like to do the 76 (77?) and newer rear wheel cylinders. Need to do a little line building but I find they bleed easier since they are plumbed in series, not in parallel. Then, new double reservoir master, get NiCopp lines and 10mm tube nuts and bend and flare all your own lines.

Swapping to front disc or keeping drum? (I think you’re still 4 wheel drum).

I did dual reservoir and most of the lines last year. I have an unknown Wilwood kit up front on a front end I picked up on marketplace. I’ll be going through it too.

 

[6f40j9]

Oh, and then all new soft lines with 10mm fittings. I can scrounge up part numbers I used when I did this if you’re interested. I used Autozone soft lines because they were drastically cheaper than Toyota and I’m cheap.

Any info is appreciated

 

[majdomo]

Went through this with my 72 earlier last year. Ended up rebuilding most of the cylinders with parts from Mark's Off Road. FJParts has them too. Make sure you get good Japanese JBS rebuild kits. The only reason I replaced a cylinder was if it was completely borked (adjuster usually). I think I replaced maybe 3 of the 8 on the rig. Kept my OEM drums, didn't even turn them. Probably should have but, eh. Reused all hardware / springs, new shoes all around. Took FOREVER to do the work and bleed and adjust but I have drums at all 4 corners. Replaced all soft lines with braided stainless. Stops like a champ now.

 

[Skreddy]

Here’s where it starts with mine. No part numbers but has what the rubber lines came out of. This is with a 2.5” lift.

Post in thread 'Skreddy’s 70 Non-Resto'
Builds - Skreddy’s 70 Non-Resto - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/skreddys-70-non-resto.1267834/post-14233596


From there if you don’t want to read through.
Rear wheel cylinders are 78.
The master cylinder I ordered for a 1991 Landcruiser (rear port to front brakes). Booster has been removed, manual brakes now.
I also used a later model (78?) FJ40 clutch master cylinder that is shorter in order to clear the booster. I still had to grind about 1/8” off the end of the clutch master to clear the booster. It cleared without this but I wanted a little more.
Clutch soft hose is a 92 Toyota pickup rear brake hose, about 17” long.
Both frame to axle rubber brake hoses are 02 Tundra rear brake hoses, about 20” long.
The rubber brake hoses on the axle to knuckle are 1981-1990 Landcruiser outer brake hoses.

 

[Its me shaneus]

With regards to Wilwood dual master cylinder. I was also loosing fluid to rear circuit. After chasing everything else down the final leak was where the plastic reservoir clamps over the aluminum master cylinder body. Had to clamp really tight. This after having been fine and in use for 5+ years.

 

[6f40j9]

With regards to Wilwood dual master cylinder. I was also loosing fluid to rear circuit. After chasing everything else down the final leak was where the plastic reservoir clamps over the aluminum master cylinder body. Had to clamp really tight. This after having been fine and in use for 5+ years.

The master is aisin but I haven’t really dived into it yet. Good to have a place to start though.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Went through this with my 72 earlier last year. Ended up rebuilding most of the cylinders with parts from Mark's Off Road. FJParts has them too. Make sure you get good Japanese JBS rebuild kits. The only reason I replaced a cylinder was if it was completely borked (adjuster usually). I think I replaced maybe 3 of the 8 on the rig. Kept my OEM drums, didn't even turn them. Probably should have but, eh. Reused all hardware / springs, new shoes all around. Took FOREVER to do the work and bleed and adjust but I have drums at all 4 corners. Replaced all soft lines with braided stainless. Stops like a champ now.

Fwiw, we stock all the wheel cylinder rebuild kits (Japanese) at Cruiser Outfitters. For a 1969:

Fronts:

Wheel Cylinder Rebuild Kit - Fits 1/1961 - 6/1970 4x/5x Applications - Front Cylinders (BWCRK35040)

Toyota Land Cruiser Wheel Cylinder

cruiserteq.com

Rears:

Wheel Cylinder Rebuild Kit - Fits 1/1963 - 7/1970 4x Applications - Rear Cylinders (BWCRK60011)

Toyota Land Cruiser Wheel Cylinder

cruiserteq.com

 

[6f40j9]

Fwiw, we stock all the wheel cylinder rebuild kits (Japanese) at Cruiser Outfitters. For a 1969:

Fronts:

Wheel Cylinder Rebuild Kit - Fits 1/1961 - 6/1970 4x/5x Applications - Front Cylinders (BWCRK35040)

Toyota Land Cruiser Wheel Cylinder

cruiserteq.com

Rears:

Wheel Cylinder Rebuild Kit - Fits 1/1963 - 7/1970 4x Applications - Rear Cylinders (BWCRK60011)

Toyota Land Cruiser Wheel Cylinder

cruiserteq.com

Fronts are discs already, rears I’d like to update for newer fittings. When I get to it, I’ll call you guys with what I *think* I need.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Fronts are discs already, rears I’d like to update for newer fittings. When I get to it, I’ll call you guys with what I *think* I need.

Sweet, we'd love to help!

 

[6f40j9]

Despite things looking well, it seems one cylinder might be leaking and one has a frozen adjuster. I’ll hop on cruiserteq.com and get a couple new ones, but not going to upgrade the whole thing at this point. Not sure what rear bottom is, but I think it’s rear/rear.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Good plan to start putting some Kroil on the fitting and mounting bolts now. I did the bolts on the outside and some on the inside to allow it to crawl in the bolt from both ends. A proper opened flare nut wrench is the only way to go.