Yet another BJ42 frame off-Dbradford04

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That is a WIDE variety of opinions. I will repost the blasted frame late next week, and we can revisit it. Thanks for the input mate!
 
Well that section of frame looks too rust-weakened for my liking.

I'd be looking for an alternative frame.

Sorry to be negative.

:cheers:

Seriously? :confused:

Maybe you should sometimes visit scandinavia and see our frames if you think that is too rust-weakened...
 
Seriously? :confused:

Maybe you should sometimes visit scandinavia and see our frames if you think that is too rust-weakened...

As pictured in this thread, I'm pretty sure the chassis would fail the compulsory 6-monthly vehicle checks that are required when vehicles are to be used on public roads in this country.

But I agree with Dan that after blasting the true situation should be clearer.

Here you don't ever want the authorities to see something like that and log it on their computer system.

So if there is sufficient metal remaining after blasting (for strength and to enable any deep rust pits/holes to be filled with weld), then the chassis may be passable IMO.

But a really good priming system (like POR) with a good topcoat should be applied to "improve appearances" (and thus stop the authorities from noticing the missing metal) as well as performing the all-important task of completely stopping further corrosion.

:beer:
 
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frame coating

There seems to be a ton of opinions regarding frame coating as well. POR..fish oil??..zinc..powdercoating.

I have gotten a ton of stuff powder coated by my guy for my last project, and he seems pretty confident about his ability to stop rust, and says it will look great.

That is the direction I am leaning/headed.

Dan
 
So Tom, if you could find a "desert dry" nice frame for 3K, would you buy it or fix this one?

Kraig...WWKD? What would Kraig do? By the time I buy the rear gussets and cross piece, replace the mounts in several places, weld in some panels etc, I am going to spend a ton and still have an 80% frame IMO...not saying yes or no, just asking.

Dallas..I know what you would say! :)

D
 
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Actually.....I would repair with perfection your current frame....why? Because it came from Toyota with that frame for one, but two - your frame number/VIN is stamped in the right frame horn.

If it were my frame and it was absolutely not salvageable, I would buy a clean FJ40 frame and weld the frame horn onto that FJ40 frame. That would be WORST CASE.

You'll have that feeling of satisfaction I think...in knowing that you have the correct numbers on your frame.

That's just me though.....
 
Dallas, that is exactly what I thought you would say! I could care less about the numbers on my frame!:) What I am building is a rig that will not rust, and be my daily driver for the next 10 years..that''s why I bought a diesel...and I love the technology.:D

For me it's a cost benefit equation..can I repair mine and have a decent frame?...at what cost?...and how does that compare to buying a great frame for 3K and welding on new motor mounts?

But I LOVE that you are a purist, and that I am not, and that we can still be buddies!
:beer::beer::beer:

D
 
So Tom, if you could find a "desert dry" nice frame for 3K, would you buy it or fix this one?...

I certainly wouldn't buy at that price but I probably would at $500 Dan.

But then perhaps I have a price-advantage in this part of the world. (ie. Perhaps there are more 40-series cruiser being wrecked and sold off as parts here. - I'm pretty sure I could get a good BJ42 chassis for $500!)


Actually.....I would repair with perfection your current frame....why? Because it came from Toyota with that frame for one, but two - your frame number/VIN is stamped in the right frame horn.
If it were my frame and it was absolutely not salvageable, I would buy a clean FJ40 frame and weld the frame horn onto that FJ40 frame. That would be WORST CASE.
You'll have that feeling of satisfaction I think...in knowing that you have the correct numbers on your frame.
That's just me though.....

Not just you Dallas. Me too. (I'd want to keep the same VIN.)

But I think I'd cut out just the VIN area alone (say a 120 x 50mm rectangle) and weld it into the new frame in such a way that no-one could pick that it had been done. (Sure - the frame is a bit boxed-in for the steering idler there but such a thing is do-able provided you have the right tools.

But then I'm not TOTALLY of the opinion that your existing frame in toast Dan. I think those rust flakes/slabs do suggest significant metal-loss and if the remaining metal has "swelled" at all between rivets (in overlap sections) then that not good news either. But let's not forget that photos can only tell you so much (in comparison to seeing the real thing).

:beer:
 
2cents

Tom, thanks for the input. There are not a lot of late model cruisers in the US..they are rare. I would pay 500 bucks all day long..add to that; in florida there are very few cruisers in general.

i'll sort it out soon, and value your input as well as Dallas. I am still moving forward with the frame blasting next week, and will post those pics when i have them.

D
 
outer C channel is probably fine, it's the inside one is thinner and goes first.

Frames didn't change a helluva lot over the years. you could move the latemodel specific parts onto the older rails, or just cut out a good inner section and weld it in....probably what I'd do as it's easier.

but that frame isn't that bad. 45 and 60/70 frames in this part of the world make that look cherry.

it's just a hunk of metal...:hillbilly:
 
After today, I officially name my BJ42 project "Murphy's Law"

Got the rear diff apart today, and will get the rear axles out this evening..The starter came in so I will be starting it up and seeing how it runs while I try to decide what to do about the frame. I'm leaning toward getting one from SOR if they would JUST SEND ME the pictures they promised a week ago.

D
 
new frame photos

So here are pics of the potential new frame from SOR..quite an improvement..also a lot closer to $500.00 than the 3K I guestimated...
IMG_3183.webp
IMG_3189.webp
IMG_3190.webp
 
Well I'd sure get more than $500 "peace of mind" by using that frame rather than your one original Dan.

:cheers:
 
It's stll going to be expensive, and lesson learned, but in the grand scheme of things, an extra thousand or so in a fame off is to be expected..Murphy's Law will be a nice rig when i'm finished. Thanks for everyone's help and input.

D
 
It is RHD...no big deal..holes are there for both sides. It may have even come with the 3b mounts..even if itvdoesnt, i will either bolt or weld my current mounts.

Murphy's Law is well on it's way

D
 
It may have even come with the 3b mounts..even if itvdoesnt, i will either bolt or weld my current mounts.

Murphy's Law is well on it's way

D

Congrats ! Do they have the tranny mount/support bracketry to go with it ? The 4 and 5 sp differs ... so you may get lucky ...
 
hmmm...not sure. I will have to check into that. I have the "under the transfer case" mount, and thought that's what was needed for the 5 speed.
 
WOOOHOOO!!!

Before I went any further, and pulled the engine and tranny off the frame, I wanted to run it and see how the engine was. It started right up after sitting for almost 5 years.

Changed out the fuel filter....primed everything up..ran a fuel line to a plastic gas can...rigged up a wilson switch, poured in a fresh quart of oil to lube everything top side..and cough sputter...VROOOMMM!!!! ran like a champ!

Big day in the life of "Murpy's Law"

On to the frame!

D
 

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