yay, the septic pump died

[Koffer]

That looks like a Hydromatic ejector pump. They're a good pump but if you think there's a problem with the electric line Finkle's stock Hydromatics ( for @ $400)

Looks like it's been running warm by the amount of poo baked on.

Yeah it is , I really dont think its set up right at all, seems like everything is set way too low. seems like it was set to turn on with about 8 to 10" in the tank and and off at about 6 inches . Tanks about 4 feet deep
The pump is a model SPD50MH1 , not cheap on line about $700 .
I'm going to read up on this some .

 

[Toyo FJ40]

Is it pumping to a sand mound? Sometimes you limit the pump amount because the field can't handle 500 gals at a time but I usually set them up for 18 to 24 inchs per cycle.

That said sewer pumps with a built in switch usually only cycle at 8" from on to off.

Goulds or Zoeller make good pumps. Zoeller sewer pump

 

[Koffer]

I'm thinking about just raising the level in the tank so it keeps the pump covered at all times , right now it looking as the a good part of the pump is mostly out of the water level when non running .
I'd keep the run time the same so I don't overload the field.
So far Ive read here and online its better to keep the pump cool plus keeping it under water will cut down the the corrosion since the nasty water is better then the nasty sewer air and O2 plus cooking the goodness to the pump body (eww)

 

[KLF]

Yup, that's a pitless adapter, usually only used on larger pump setups and water wells, it's good they put that in, as you found it makes pulling the pump MUCH easier.

The upper float should be for the alarm.

Yeah, that motor housing looks like it's been running hot, like I said they need to be submerged if possible for cooling.

 

[Koffer]

Yup, that's a pitless adapter, usually only used on larger pump setups and water wells, it's good they put that in, as you found it makes pulling the pump MUCH easier.

Yeah once I figured out how it worked and was able to loosen up the crud to get it apart . Its about 3 feet or so deep into the opening (just out of hands reach) so if it was a union fitting I wouldnt be able to loosen it very easy or get back together .

The upper float should be for the alarm.

When I opened it I saw 3 floats and was WTF I knew one was for the alarm but didnt think there was 2 on the limit switches

Yeah, that motor housing looks like it's been running hot, like I said they need to be submerged if possible for cooling.

Yeah I'm waiting for it to refill for a few days and make sure everything working before I pull it out again and move the floats up about 8" to cover the pump at all times .

For what was paid for this system($35K in 2005)
I'm glad they put some better stuff in it with the pitless and the better pump too bad the floats took on water so fast and the level was set too low .
Now I know


Thanks everyone for the help with my s***ty problem