Y'all; My 200 acts like a lunatic when it's cold. (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Threads
19
Messages
146
Location
MD
Lately, when I start the truck up it idles fine but then once I start driving, it revs high before shifting (up to about 3500-4000 rpms) or does this weird oscillating rev behavior around 2k rpm or 40 mpg, the tac jumps up and down by about 500 rpm. Once the engine is warmed up, it seems to go away. Morning temps lately have been in the 20-40 F range.

I also have a slight rattle in the steering column over some bumps when turning.

Any thoughts on what these might be or their fix?

TIA
 
Mine also behaves a little differently when cold...I get that same hesitation on the first few shifts of the day. I don't have any bumps or rattles in the steering area - but then I just replaced my entire front suspension including steering tie rod ends. I did have a Ford Expedition that had a noticeable clunk in the steering column when it was cold outside...
 
I've noticed that when it's colder out, when I first shift out Park to either D or R, the engine revs way up (~2000 rpm) before it drops into gear. I think the temp threshold is somewhere in the mid-40s. It was 50 in the garage this morning, and it didn't do it.
 
Yeah, I recently had the trans flushed and oil changed but I have to admit that I'm not sure whether they put 5W or 0W in.

I should also clarify that the steering rattle isn't related to the cold, most likely just age or aftermarket wheels. I'm at 107k miles btw.
 
My lx is doing the same thing in the mornings revs spike when going into reverse for the first time. I have found just letting it warm up for a couple minutes prevents that.

If it's surging once you start driving on shifts you may have low transmission fluid. You sure they checked the level correctly after the flush?
 
Try putting the car in neutral for a second or two before shifting into drive or reverse. Most trannies have an internal bypass on the fluid circuits when in park. Putting it in neutral may allow the fluid to better circulate when cold.
 
Mine is due for an oil change anyway so I'm going to take it to the dealer and make sure they put 0W-20 in to see if that resolves the issue but it seems more serious than simply the wrong oil formulation for cold.

Also, anyone using a magnetic oil drain plug and have a rec for one?
 
What you are describing is the engine trying to warm up as quickly as possible. Normal behavior in cold weather. The tranny will jerk a little or seem to slip within the first few miles. You can avoid this by letting the car warm up prior to driving, or just deal with it. My tundra did the same thing and I am assuming the transmission heater is the same design. Over 100k miles driven on two 5.7s with the 6AT and never had an issue. First 50k on my tundra was below -20F in Alaska for 3 years. Most of that was towing too. I have always run 0W-20 synthetic Mobil 1 in my toyotas with zero problems. Yes, they are noisy when cold out and first started. Plenty of chatter and sounds almost like a diesel.
 
Lately, when I start the truck up it idles fine but then once I start driving, it revs high before shifting (up to about 3500-4000 rpms) or does this weird oscillating rev behavior around 2k rpm or 40 mpg, the tac jumps up and down by about 500 rpm. Once the engine is warmed up, it seems to go away. Morning temps lately have been in the 20-40 F range.
TIA

Mine started to do this as well recently (2009 LX570), with morning temps in the high 20s/low 30s here lately. Once the engine warms up, this behavior goes away.
 
Last edited:
I noticed mine (2013 200 series w/ 50K miles) was doing the same when shifting to Reverse in cold weather - 25-35 degrees F. Glad to know it's normal and will budget additional time to warm the engine up in the morning. Once the engine was back to normal temp, the LC was smooth as always.
 
Mine is due for an oil change anyway so I'm going to take it to the dealer and make sure they put 0W-20 in to see if that resolves the issue but it seems more serious than simply the wrong oil formulation for cold.

Also, anyone using a magnetic oil drain plug and have a rec for one?

I believe the stock drain plug is magnetic.

My 2011 has 90k miles. I notice no difference on cold startup. My wife on the other hand makes strange noises and acts like a lunatic on really cold days until the passenger side seat warmer gets going...
 
So I had a coupon for service at the dealer and I asked them to investigate the following items:
1) Engine surging when cold
2) Rear driver side door speaker cutting in and out
3) Rattle in steering on bumps
4) Broken screws fastening underside of front fascia
5) Change oil

They somehow weren't able to figure anything out other than changing the oil and they didn't have 0W-20. They seem to think the engine surging is transmission related but I'm not sure if that's because they don't know or there is a real possibility of the transmission needing attention. I did have the trans flushed about 6 months ago but I'm not sure if maybe using the wrong fluid or additive would cause the engine to surge when cold.
 
So I had a coupon for service at the dealer and I asked them to investigate the following items:
1) Engine surging when cold
2) Rear driver side door speaker cutting in and out
3) Rattle in steering on bumps
4) Broken screws fastening underside of front fascia
5) Change oil

They somehow weren't able to figure anything out other than changing the oil and they didn't have 0W-20. They seem to think the engine surging is transmission related but I'm not sure if that's because they don't know or there is a real possibility of the transmission needing attention. I did have the trans flushed about 6 months ago but I'm not sure if maybe using the wrong fluid or additive would cause the engine to surge when cold.
First off, I would run the 0W-20, especially during the winter. The toyota 6AT is known to surge/jerk when very cold until it comes up to operating temps. There is a VERY SMALL possibility that something is wrong with your transmission, but everything you are describing is totally normal behavior. I do know that the transmissions are sensitive to the correct fluid, so woe be unto you if you didn't use toyota WS fluid. In addition, changing the fluid in it is a bit of a different process, given that there is no fill plug and must be done through the exchange process with a pump. The transmission requires no additives, nor does the engine oil.

I know that the jerky transmission sounds like a faulty design when cold. Trust me, I dealt with it in alaska at -40F. However, every first hand experience I have had with it tells me its bulletproof. Ive towed 10k up mountain passes in my tundra and the temp gauge was rock solid on the transmission. These units are VERY dependable.
 
Thanks. I definitely plan on putting the 0W-20 in on the next change and was caught off guard by the dealer only having 5W-20. They claimed 0W-20 is only synthetic too. I would've been fine with synthetic though.

I did have the trans serviced at my local shop a few months ago, before it was cold, so I plan on having them verify which fluid they used when they did it. I agree that the trans is widely known to be very robust, which I reminded the dealership about.

Basically, I am still in the process of shaking down the truck since I got it. At 107k miles, I know there are a bunch of small things to sort out but that the truck overall is solid.

Perhaps I will bring my own fluids to the shop next time. Anyone have a good resource for 0W-20 and Toyota WS fluid?
 
Wow. You are 100% correct. I just looked it up and made the mistake of assuming it was identical to my 2008 Tundra.

The 5.7 Tundra has the same transmission. The transmission on the 4.7 Tundra also drains and refills the same way...
 
My 08 with 118k acts the same way when cold. I was hoping a tranny fluid flush would help this, but maybe not.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom