wrapping my head around a frame swap (1 Viewer)

Joined
Mar 22, 2008
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286
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North Vancouver
I've spent a tonne of searching frame swaps but I'm still a little intimidated by the size of the job and the best procedure. Assuming I start off with a decent FJ60 frame with non of the factory paint, and a rusty, but otherwise running HJ60 with a decent body, how would the swap proceed. I will be renting an engine hoist obviously and maybe a dozen jack stands and a bunch of burly friends.

  1. check integrity and paint new frame with rust bullet
  2. empty diesel, remove batteries and disconnect brake lines, fuel lines and unbolt body from frame
  3. set body aside
  4. remove engine, accessories and tranny as a unit, set aside
  5. move springs and axles together over to new frame and reconnect
  6. drop motor into new rolling frame after checking and modifying engine mounts as necessary
  7. reattach fuel, brake lines, steering to frame
  8. drop body back onto frame
  9. reconnect electricals, master cylinder, clutch cyliner
  10. bleed all hydraulic systems

Not an intensive list, but that's seems to make most sense in my mind. Any comments?

Alternatively, the front portion of my frame seems fine, is it unreasonable to assume a frame splice is feasible, replacing from the tranny x-member back assuming measurements were made extremely carefully?
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2008
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Whidbey Island, WA
Don't make a list. You will get depressed. Just get a good frame, prep it and start moving parts. Most of it will sort itself out. It's a lot of work but worth it.

I wouldn't splice the frame unless you had no other option, a full swap is less work. I know I just finished with a complete rebuild of my BJ that I brought down from up your way.

Get a hold of Mikesta (FJToys) I think he has a few solid frames. I don't know where in BC you are but Mike is in Kirkland not too far south of you. I can get you a phone # if need be, let me know

Tony

If you want a good idea of how I swapped things out go to the rebuild in my sig line
 
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
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North Vancouver
I PM'd Mikesta and he said he moved the frames out a couple weeks ago unfortunately. I've got a two week window in May where no one else will be using the driveway. I'd like to try and do it in that time. I've recruited a half dozen friends to help lift and move parts, a welder, and a couple wrenching buddies. My idea is to buy a keg and 100 burger patties, and have those on hand for whoever ends up helping me with the swap.

With the list, i just want to figure out the most sensible order for the swap to proceed.

Matt
 
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Messages
286
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North Vancouver
Maybe the beer will make this project less daunting. Its seeming very, very daunting at the moment.

Charles, I read through you're swap thread last night, it was quite helpful.
 
Joined
Jan 11, 2010
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WA & BC
North man Gent.

I went to south cali and bought a body for 2 g landed in CDN,,
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/40087-60-series-registry-65.html
VT

then you can start.. My pure steel body needs all resealing / paint / and CDN rubber. It has been cooked , but EVERY Bolt has come out without a liquid torch threat !!

I bought 3 trucks , Diesel , Body , parts for spare(towing) ..

What did you buy in Victoria ??

Post the ful meal deal

VT
 
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Messages
286
Location
North Vancouver
Baxter650: I just posted that up, figured it would be useful info as I've been enquiring about frames in the Pacific Northwest, ideally Washington or Lower Mainland BC. I don't have a trailer so I'm either going to have to rent a trailer or I'm going to have to pay someone to drive it up.

The truck was bought in Victoria, BC for quite a reasonable price given that it was dealer-maintained, had decent springs and shocks (stock height), a new exhaust system, and only 292,000km. The engine doesn't smoke at start up and the batteries were new within the last year. I paid $3500 and got an old non-working Warn M8000 as well. The frame looked like it might be salvageable, but even after the repair its been recommended I not drive it off road. As I typically fly-fish many reasonably remote lakes and rivers throughout BC, I'd like to find a frame in the not too distant future so the truck is useful to me. I'd love to get a shop to help me out, but on a student's budget, thats simply not in the cards.
 
Joined
Mar 27, 2007
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O-H-I-O
Good Luck

I know you stated you would be doing this in a driveway, hope it's level. The link below gives you a pretty good idea of what is involved. Has some pretty useful photos. Good luck finding a frame, they are out there, just takes time to locate them.

Photo Gallery :: Toyota Landcruiser Frame Swap

They are in your neck of the woods, you could give them a call and see what it would run you. Never know, maybe the price will fit your budget. Maybe post up in a TLCA club in your area to see if you can get a lead on a good frame.
 
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Messages
286
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North Vancouver
I'm just compiling weights of various components to get an idea of how I should move them around:

frame...........................800lbs ???
9.5" front axle...............275
9.5" rear axle................250 (guess, based on lack of steering components attached
springs (per axle)..........120
springs+axle+wheels.....520
H55+Tcase...................300
2H + accessories ..........650 ??? (I'm just eyeballing this one...honestly no idea how accurate that is)
2H+H55+T-case (wet)...1000 ???
HJ60 body w/doors.......1000 ???
 
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Cruiserdrew

On the way there
SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 15, 2003
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Sacramento, CA
I've done it on a 40--easier but the idea is the same.

I would encourage you to get a complete set of axles and suspension. Then build a rolling chassis, which is way easier to deal with.

Then swap the body onto the chassis.

Then the drivetrain as a complete unit.

Done that way, it only took a couple of weekends and wan't that bad. The 60 body is bigger and harder to move around, but still a fork lift or a tree and a chain hoist you are good to go.

It was much easier than I had anticipated.

There will be a million details to chase down and a set of axles to sell afterwards.
 
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
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North Vancouver
The driveway is moderately level with a single 60-sized level spot.

Another set of axles isn't in the cards, being a student and all. One of the frames is going to have to rest on blocks for a while until I can swap the axles and body.
 
Joined
Jan 20, 2003
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Wherever the truck stops!!
Matt, you don't need a second set of axles if you can get the body up securely (hopefully more secure than mine was). If it's a little flaky or wobbly then you want it as fast as possible and the axles will speed it up a little.

Body off, strip the frame and reinstall all drive line stuff on new frame (tranny mount can be used as a reference if using an FJ60 frame when you locate engine mounts as I believe that is a constant regardless of engine or 4 or 5 speed tranny, auto tranny mount may be different). Roll new rolling chassis under body and you're done.

Mine was 4 1/2 days work from driving in to driving out with me and one other guy most of the time. More guys were needed when lifting the body.
 
Joined
Apr 6, 2010
Messages
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I'm just compiling weights of various components to get an idea of how I should move them around:

frame...........................800lbs ???
9.5" front axle...............275
9.5" rear axle................250 (guess, based on lack of steering components attached
springs (per axle)..........120
springs+axle+wheels.....520
H55+Tcase...................300
2H + accessories ..........650 ??? (I'm just eyeballing this one...honestly no idea how accurate that is)
2H+H55+T-case (wet)...1000 ???
HJ60 body w/doors.......1000 ???
The spring/axle/wheel assembly may seem like a lot of weight but is should be very easy to move to your new frame. I'd suggest leaving your springs on the axle when you move as you really don't want to get involved in removing the u bolts and (if they were anything like mine) likely replacing them. If it were me I'd pull engine/tranny/tcase/disconnect associated items. lift body straight up off current frame placing some supports underneath it. Roll that entire frame out with wheels and everything still on. Move all your axles under the new frame. roll it under and start reconnnecting. Seems like a decent way to avoid moving a frame/body without any round objects. With all that said, I have never removed a frame:doh: but seems reasonable. All my pulling experience is on old mopars(unibody). I would also suggest taking a LOT of pictures before you begin and using ziplock bags/sharpie to label hardware as it is removed. Organization takes longer coming off but man it saves going back in.
 
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Messages
286
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North Vancouver
With the new frame, I'd like to paint it obviously. I'm leaning towards Rust Bullet. Quick question, how would you prep the insides of the frame rail short of dipping them in some sort of bath (acid bath). Don't want to galvanize in case I weld on sliders.

Obviously the scale rust and the grease, dirt and grime need to vacate the premises before I can try and spray the inside of the frame with some kind of rust inhibitor. Should I just hose it out,allow to dry and spray it with non-dripping oil like Fluid Film.

Right now, I'm leaning towards Rust Bullet on the outside and where I can reach without wasting paint on the inside, and spray the entire inside with Fluid Film with a wand.
 
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