Worn engine treatment and other additives for old engines (1 Viewer)

[sunrk]

I see fuel and oil additives more as snake oil that genuinely beneficial products.

My 80's 1hz is the original motor from 1992 and is knocking at 688 k km's soon.

Things like 'worn engine treatment' and similar - are they really just like snake oil or do they actually give a tangible benefit through reducing wear, etc. in an old tired motor which already has a lot of wear going on?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

The oil additives basically increase viscosity from what I understand. This helps old motors with worn bearings and rings for sure. It'll quiet it down and reduce oil loss from blow-by etc. I think oil additives in some cases swell seals too to help stop leaks. You could just run a heavier oil too.

Fuel additives are effective at cleaning/lubricating a fuel system and increasing cetane rating of diesel. I use them regularly and definitely notice a difference.

 

[veiloctane]

Only one brand of additives I found that works.

Hotshot Secret
1. Fuel system cleaner (hotshots diesel Extreme)
2. Hotshots stiction Eliminator (ad to oil and keep till next oil change)

 

[AussieHJCruza]

I've found the Cost Effective Maintenance gear to work, Home - https://costeffective.com.au/

Less blowby on a 2H after using the oil flush, and definitely reduced the common-rail diesel rattle on newer trucks with the CRD additive, and the decarboniser makes a noticible difference to how often my Ranger Raptor burns off the DPF.

The AW10, no real evidence either way in cruisers but I also add it to my 2-stroke mix for the chainsaws etc. and I want to say it smoothes them out somewhat. May be placebo

 

[sodafeld1]

Pretty commendable kms you have there, whatever you have been doing has been good.

Not too many here, have your kms I believe. Certainly not unheard of. I think the record LC over a million kms was a hz which was an interstate taxi truck in front of long oversize haulage trucks, slow, long distance and steady.

Things eventual wear. Especially on start up. My Dad use to warm up an old 1946 ferguson with a blanket and blow heater...

What symptoms are you getting? Smoke? If so, what colour smoke? Loss of power hauling or uphill?

I have been using penrite oils in Oz, it has extra zinc upon recommendations from here and penrite. I have also used the regular delo, castrol rx and caterpillar oils with frequent changes. I try to keep the oil clean as possible. But I only have less than half the kms you have, so can't tell yet.

I have a pretty accurate oil pressure gauge which shows me the 10w-40 oil gets a bit less psi than a 20w-60 during summer or long 4hr drives. Still both are within spec. We don't get much freezing weather unless in the snow, but we all get hot summers. So , I like the 20w-60 with zinc on my 2h.

I would be happy to get 700k from one engine. Slowly building another engine for fun, love and appreciation, it is interesting. So I will have a spare when the time comes.

I use the flash lube which is meant to be good for valves, but can't really tell if it works. At least it is economical.

lubrimoloy has a diesel purge, that does help clean old injectors. But there is nothing like fresh injector nozzles re-calibrated, which is worth it every 100k kms.

I tried lubrimoloy engine seal fix to hopefully help my valve seals but as it at the top of the motor, I don't think it did much. I don't have any leaks on my 2h. But it did help my wife's 94 mazda which leaked engine oil chronic and does not leak anywhere near as much, amazingly so.

I can't help but like penrite in oz. I have spoken with the oil guy, he knows his stuff. So I go with their recommendation. I do not have any affiliation, don't sell the stuff. They usually recommend heavier oil for oz weather and extra zinc for older engines. Don't like their head gasket leak fix though, I think any of those coolant goops just will help clog things up..

You can buy expensive zinc additives, simply put, it is slippery stuff which helps lubricate flat lifters and solid rockers which the 2h has. Not sure what the hz has.

I also believe virtually all parts for the hz are still available direct from Toyota, which would be like one kind of a heaven!

 

[Greg_B]

Project Farm video using Engine Restorer. There is also a one year follow up.

hth’s
gb

 

[Greg_B]

Only one brand of additives I found that works.

Hotshot Secret
1. Fuel system cleaner (hotshots diesel Extreme)
2. Hotshots stiction Eliminator (ad to oil and keep till next oil change)

Discovered Hot Shot through Project Farm (he did a winter anti-gel video). Have not used any of their products other then Extreme and EDT. What application are you using the stiction Eliminator in?

gb

 

[veiloctane]

Discovered Hot Shot through Project Farm (he did a winter anti-gel video). Have not used any of their products other then Extreme and EDT. What application are you using the stiction Eliminator in?

gb

I mainly dump it in the crankcase to keep my turbo journal bearings clean, it also has FR3 in it as a friction reducer and Boosts your TBN.

my theory is less friction is better, especially with BEBs being an issue.

 

[sunrk]

Fuel additives here are primarily marketted towards people concerned that fuel quality in Australia is quite poor. Plus older motors have less ability to cope with varying fuel quality/grade. Common brands of fuel additive here are Flashlube and Chemtech.

But they aren't 'worn engine' treatments - they just change the combustion nature of the fuel to offset for quality issues.

I never start my 80 and go lead-footed since the motor is nearly at 688 k km's and I reckon if I loaded it up a lot when cold it would not be happy.

 

[roscoFJ73]

You can't replace worn metal. Some additives have zinc in them to fill in pitting in bearings and cylinder walls. Its a very temporary fix.

 

[sunrk]

I realise that - I'm more about reducing excessive wear so the engine doesn't use as much of it's own energy overcoming issues due to it's age. I know any additive of that nature is a temp fix. But $20 additive with each oil change vs $10k for a Jap import 1hdt motor.

 

[Greg_B]

From my reading over the years diesel fuel in North America is some of the worst. Texas and California have the best requirements for cetane. Canada has a federal mandate of minimum cetane level of 40. What is cetane? Canada also has a renewable content requirement, which would look after lubricity with the low Sulphur diesel now, but I have seen no confirmation anywhere official if its included in the diesel year round. And seen reports there is no bio-content during the winter months due to temperature. For those two reasons I use an lubricity and cetane additive every tank. Our older diesels are smoky enough and a good cetane boost helps with that.

As for oil additives such as above...nothing is rebuild in a can. It seems to do what it claims though.

gb

 

[roscoFJ73]

I'm more about reducing excessive wear so the engine doesn't use as much of it's own energy overcoming issues due to it's age

Just doesnt happen. Once an engine is worn, its worn. You can not improve modern oils. Any beneficial additives are already added to the oil.

 

[sodafeld1]

I see fuel and oil additives more as snake oil that genuinely beneficial products.

My 80's 1hz is the original motor from 1992 and is knocking at 688 k km's soon.

Things like 'worn engine treatment' and similar - are they really just like snake oil or do they actually give a tangible benefit through reducing wear, etc. in an old tired motor which already has a lot of wear going on?

so did you use a particular oil religously to get 700k on your hz? did it have zinc?

 

[sunrk]

so did you use a particular oil religously to get 700k on your hz? did it have zinc?

I have used Delo 400 multigrade ever since I've owned it. It was at 505 k km's in 2011 when I original obtained it. A jap import 1hdt is A$11k at present going on the few places still doing jap motor imports.

 

[sodafeld1]

That's interesting, I wonder what oil was used for the first 500k, anyways good miles.
Geez that is a bit of money for an engine. The diesel specialist who rebuilt a 2h injector pump for me is putting 1hdt in a 40series, he likes them. However, fresh injectors cost a penny $$$ ! for sure for the 1hdt.
The 2h rebuild, new everything, I am doing is costing me about $4k, but I learn everything. Not as good as 1hd or hz , but I am a simpleton.
Cheapest is getting a known working used one and swap over.

 

[sunrk]

There's rumour that crate 1hdt's exist in Australia but I really need to have $$$ before inquiring The Jap imports don't come with records of km's of the donor vehicles they come out of, so there's no real way to verify unless it's possible to 'reverse match' engine number to original VIN and find Japanese records. I don't know if JP registration requires recording km or miles each time rego is renewed.