Wont crank, odd situation. (1 Viewer)

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Try opening up your TB and spray a decent amount of carb o cleaner then try and start it. If it starts, you have a bad fuel pump.

I pulled a fuel line earlier and cranked it to confirm I have fuel going to the motor. I was told the fuel pump doesn't actually kick on till the car is running? I'm now leaning toward spark since every thing else is checking out but I'm running to the parts store so I might as well grab a can of carb cleaner
 
I pulled a fuel line earlier and cranked it to confirm I have fuel going to the motor. I was told the fuel pump doesn't actually kick on till the car is running? I'm now leaning toward spark since every thing else is checking out but I'm running to the parts store so I might as well grab a can of carb cleaner
Get starting fluid instead of carb cleaner.

The carb cleaner will eat plastic parts and paint if you get it on there. Starting fluid won't.
 
Okay

My wife just reminded me that I did pull and clean all the door pin (not sure if that's what they are called) and cleaned and reinstalled them. They are the little pins under the rubber boots that turn the interior lights on and off when you open and close the door. I was having some issues with my interior LED's flickering as I drove and thought the doors were causing it. I did this on tue or wed and it was driven several times after I did it. Would the door wiring cause anything???

I followed a YouTube video and never actually messed with wire, just disconnected them, cleaned and sanded the contacts as and put them back.
There's nothing on the door switches that would cause this other than possibly a blown fuse but you've checked then all.
 
Keep plugging away. you will find it

Thanks, I'm just glad I had time off when this happened, it's the 1st time I've taken vacation in 2 years and I'm spending it trying to get back where I started... a running LC. Lol
 
@6894kevin I have attached the ECM troubleshooting steps from the '94 FSM. Looks like you are a dab hand with the DVM so it should be fairly easy to make some further tests at the ECU. You can also check the CEL circuit here by looking for 12v at terminal W with the ignition on. Obviously checking for 12v at the ECM is a good first step.
Don't look at his diagram and faint. It is not that complicated when you break it down into lots of little circuits. By the way I have a spare ECM but I won't be back in the country until the 7th. That said, I very much doubt the ECM is the issue.
Good luck.
Thanks @Irish Reiver ! That's handy to have!

@6894kevin work your way through this guide using your multimeter to check the ECM
 
I'm getting spark and with the tester hooked up it started...... WTF? I'm going to disconnect the tester and see what happens

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Disconnected the tester and it wont start again...
Why would it start with the tester hooked up?
 
Put the tester back on and I'm getting spark but it won't start ???

I'm guessing I should start with the distributor?
 
If you have spark it should try to start unless you are missing fuel or compression
 
So this is what I did to get it to run

1. I hooked up the spark tester to #1
2. Hot my wife to crank it while I looked for spark.
3. She cranked it, I saw spark and it ran with the tester.
4. I didn't k ow how safe that was so I told her to cut it off.
5. I removed the tester and put the plug back on #1.
6. Tried to start and it would not
7. Reconnected the tester and again got my wife to start it.
8. I saw spark on the tester but it would not start...
 
I just removed the distributor and the bottom screw was slightly loose. The cap has a small bit of oil on the bottom which I was already aware of and intend to fix. Every thing else looks okay I think.

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I just removed the distributor and the bottom screw was slightly loose. The cap has a small bit of oil on the bottom which I was already aware of and intend to fix. Every thing else looks okay I think.

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Take a piece of sandpaper and clean the inside edge of each of the terminals inside the distributor cap. They look to be oxidized. Didn't you just replace that?

I thought you did cap, rotor, wires, plugs in the last two weeks.

Also check to make sure the center button inside the cap has a little spring in and out to it.
 
I just removed the distributor and the bottom screw was slightly loose. The cap has a small bit of oil on the bottom which I was already aware of and intend to fix. Every thing else looks okay I think.

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Take a piece of sandpaper and clean the inside edge of each of the terminals inside the distributor cap. They look to be oxidized. Didn't you just replace that?
 
Also clean off the center if the rotor as it looks like there is excessive arcing going on.
 
I just saw your above post @BILT4ME and have already buttoned it back up. I didn't sand the points but I checked and cleaned the wires removing them one at a time. After I connected everything back together I tried it and it just kept doing the same thing.....

Out of frustration I just kept trying to start it and she stumbled a few times like she was trying to start then all of the sudden WHAM, SHES ALIVE!!!.

I'm just letting her run in the driveway for a while, kinda afraid to turn her off lol.
 
The wires cap and plugs were replaced when I had the injectors cleaned and remapped maybe 4 years ago. I have done anything with the distributor recently
 

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