ARCHIVE Wits' End York On-Board-Air Schematic and Discussion

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This is great information. It would be great to have a one stop parts source. I have a basic manifold under the hood with pressure relief, gauge, pressure switch and chuck. The cutoff is set to 120psi. To regulate the pressure, i have a small regulator/gauge combo that i plug into the business end of the hose and regulate pressure fot the tool. Airing tires, i disconnect the guage.

The air does get hot. Think about the filter after the tank. Every compressor is set up this way. You will get the moisture out better if the air is cooled. We use a refrigerated chiller at our shop and this is after the compressed air passes through a standard heat exchanger. All filters are after all of this.

I do plan on adding a tank and ports front and rear but havent had the need yet. I do have to pop the hood and plug in but i just have a coil of hose under the seat that gets me to all four corners.

I would like to get some air horns and would need a tank for that. When i do this, i will be using a delay on relay. I would want to run the compressor while driving but not want to think about turning on the master switch. It would engage the clutch x seconds after the engine is running. I also dont want the pump engaged at startup. Think soft start. Ive had belt squeel and hate it. This could be good for the air locker guys as well. An unloader could be used as well but this is easy. Over kill? Probably. But im sure Joey wont mind.
 
As a guy who services air lines at work and installs stainless tubing STAY FAR FAR FAR AWAY from parker, its by far one of the worst manufacturers in my opinion, while swagelok may be worth more money ill take it any day

my second is DK Lok, I have 10+ years as an instrument technician/mechanic/engineer there is a reason we dont use parker

This is news to me. I have friends in the trucking business and in the chemical manufacturing and laser foundry business and Parker and their subsidiaries is all they use. I've never heard of an issue with Parker. They also have so many lines and aquisitions that's tough to keep them all straight.
 
This is news to me. I have friends in the trucking business and in the chemical manufacturing and laser foundry business and Parker and their subsidiaries is all they use. I've never heard of an issue with Parker. They also have so many lines and aquisitions that's tough to keep them all straight.

yah none of the large petro chemical, big pharma or really any industry wont use em

more issues over time, our bid packages literraly go out stating NO PARKER fittings, we just dont accept on site, and if we find them on our site we back charge the vendor time and material

They also lost there "N" certification globally so no longer meets the nuclear certification, only 2 manufacturers have it which is swagelok and Dk Lok
 
I can't wait for this one Joey! A couple of comments:

1. I second 890man - an extra bung on the manifold (or somewhere in the system) for a pressure switch would be helpful, and would maintain the option to use this for air lockers. Course, I realize every extra port adds to the manifold size....
2. Interesting location of the pressure regulator. I see this under the hood a lot, but when I was researching this mod it seems like that device takes up the most space. Installing near the tank seems like a good solution.
3. As a general question, I wonder how many people are running OBA without a tank? If this is geared to just tire fills, is a tank truly necessary?
 
I'm waiting for someone to chime in about AIR lockers, I have a feeling those will be less popular since their air lines kinda suck and now we have the Harrop.

I like having the filter a little closer to the compressor to get the solids while still warm and flows better. I think keeping condensation out of the line before the tank helps things along. That way the tank itself isn't storing air, oil and water. There is a way to re-route the drain from the coalescing filter back to the York but if there is a lot of condensation that isn't a good idea for the York.

I too considered the gauge and light and all that stuff in-cab but I just never pictured the need as well.
Yea, I never bought into the oil recycling thing. York compressors are dirty and produce copious amounts of water and oil. The water will be the first thing to drain back. Not a good idea.
In looking for places to mount the tank on the 97, I decided on a 2 gallon tank behind the winch with a flat mounting plate (at least that's the current plan). I had originally purchased a 2.5 gallon 300 psi tank, but it's too long to fit comfortably and out of harms way IMO.
Once I get all my bits and pieces over the next week or so, I'll start putting it all together.
On the 91 I used spare relay and fuse sockets in the fusebox and an OEM EFI relay to run it. Still undecided about the 97.
 
I want a kit that includes everything, including the compressor, and all fittings and hose to fill tires and maybe air tools. I like the idea of train horn but not sure I want an air tank.
 
I want a kit that includes everything, including the compressor, and all fittings and hose to fill tires and maybe air tools. I like the idea of train horn but not sure I want an air tank.

The compressors themselves are the tough part. They aren't hard to find for an individual, but trying to source them in bulk isn't easy. From what I know, you can't buy them new.
 
The compressors themselves are the tough part. They aren't hard to find for an individual, but trying to source them in bulk isn't easy. From what I know, you can't buy them new.

You can get them new but they are made in China. I was looking into them.

image.jpeg
 
I would also be ok with rebuilt ones. A kit would be nice knowing everything is ready to go!
 
2 quick questions:

1. I'm going to swap out my 7" pulley for a 6" one. Would a single v notch pulley work or will a double v notch be necessary?

2. I've got my York but was wanting to rebuild it prior to installation. I've found 2 kinds of kits, an all metal gasket kit and a fiber gasket kit. Which one is better or recommended?

Many thanks for all help in advance.
 
This is great information. It would be great to have a one stop parts source.

Well, I'm trying to work it out.

I have a basic manifold under the hood with pressure relief, gauge, pressure switch and chuck. The cutoff is set to 120psi. To regulate the pressure, i have a small regulator/gauge combo that i plug into the business end of the hose and regulate pressure fot the tool. Airing tires, i disconnect the guage.

Its generally not a good idea to have a quick-connect coupler mounted in the manifold. The QC coupler should be mounted elsewhere with a hose to the manifold.
 
1. I second 890man - an extra bung on the manifold (or somewhere in the system) for a pressure switch would be helpful, and would maintain the option to use this for air lockers. Course, I realize every extra port adds to the manifold size....

Did you look at the illustration? They are all there ;)

Screen Shot 2016-04-24 at 8.46.31 PM.png


2. Interesting location of the pressure regulator. I see this under the hood a lot, but when I was researching this mod it seems like that device takes up the most space. Installing near the tank seems like a good solution.

The regulators themselves aren't that big. Some can be.

3. As a general question, I wonder how many people are running OBA without a tank? If this is geared to just tire fills, is a tank truly necessary?

Tankless is fine for tire fill ups. Not so much with air tools, you'll want the tank if you plan on air tools.
 
In looking for places to mount the tank on the 97, I decided on a 2 gallon tank behind the winch with a flat mounting plate (at least that's the current plan). I had originally purchased a 2.5 gallon 300 psi tank, but it's too long to fit comfortably and out of harms way IMO.

It seems like the 2.5 fits depending on where the bungs are located. If anyone is concerned with potential damage to the tank then just using a solid mounting plate is the way to go.
 
I want a kit that includes everything, including the compressor, and all fittings and hose to fill tires and maybe air tools. I like the idea of train horn but not sure I want an air tank.

I am trying to find good rebuilt units. Rebuilding yourself isn't "terrible" but it still sucks and I don't have the time to do it. If you are doing air tools you will want a tank, it just kinda sucks without it.
 
Why no coupler in the manifold? I have had a coupler on my pancake compressor for years and my puma as well. The buss loads of nuns are still alive.

And thanks for pulling the components together.
 
1. I'm going to swap out my 7" pulley for a 6" one. Would a single v notch pulley work or will a double v notch be necessary?

One for a cleaner look.
DSCF0711Medium.jpg


2. I've got my York but was wanting to rebuild it prior to installation. I've found 2 kinds of kits, an all metal gasket kit and a fiber gasket kit. Which one is better or recommended?

According to CCI (the owners of the York design now):
Gaskets — Neoprene composite fiber gaskets used
to seal base plate and valve plate. Rubber coated
metal gaskets used to seal cylinder head.
 
Joey, it seems there has been some confusion in my posts. I am not suggesting that you are missing any details or components of the system. I am just stating how i have done it. My initial setup was done with extra parts laying around the shop and is not the best but it has worked for me. Keep up the good work.
 
Why no coupler in the manifold? I have had a coupler on my pancake compressor for years and my puma as well. The buss loads of nuns are still alive.

Haha, its about closing the hood while the hose is still connected, its happened. There is no hood over the pancake compressor :flipoff2:
 

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