ARCHIVE Wits' End York On-Board-Air Schematic and Discussion

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S.CarolinaFZJ80 said:
Thanks. I should have read a few pages back and I would have seen that. When are you planning on release?
Click to expand...
Unfortunately, according to an email I received from Metal Tech, they no longer produce the bracket (Part No. 2101) and are not willing to release drawings.

Add me to your list of customers awaiting the Wits' End under-driver setup.
 
Steve D said:
Unfortunately, according to an email I received from Metal Tech, they no longer produce the bracket (Part No. 2101) and are not willing to release drawings.

Add me to your list of customers awaiting the Wits' End under-driver setup.
Click to expand...
Well that sucks! I was planning on going that route. I guess I'll go with somebody else's sliders then.
 
Steve D said:
Unfortunately, according to an email I received from Metal Tech, they no longer produce the bracket (Part No. 2101) and are not willing to release drawings.

Add me to your list of customers awaiting the Wits' End under-driver setup.
Click to expand...

Wow thats surprising! Oh well. I'm trying to design it around the sliders anyway.

There is soooo much going on that I'm not sure which is going to land in my lap first to deal with. Everything is literally waiting on someone else. Ugh. So frustrating.

Time for another one of these...
IMG_9585.JPG
 
Looks like your beer is a little flat...

When the waiting game is over, I'm interested. Amazing how quick everything adds up, scoured Amazon, McMaster and Grainger for the lowest prices only made it about about half way before the total was north of $100. I'd rather feed your cat and follow your R&D.

Going to repurpose a tank, but need the rest of the plumbing. My plan is to mount the tank on the driver side frame using ubolts similar to sliders; also use it as an entry level welding project.
 
SorachiAce said:
Looks like your beer is a little flat...

When the waiting game is over, I'm interested. Amazing how quick everything adds up, scoured Amazon, McMaster and Grainger for the lowest prices only made it about about half way before the total was north of $100. I'd rather feed your cat and follow your R&D.

Going to repurpose a tank, but need the rest of the plumbing. My plan is to mount the tank on the driver side frame using ubolts similar to sliders; also use it as an entry level welding project.
Click to expand...

Yeah it adds up fast and a lot of times you find you need a different size and that sucks. I'm trying to alleviate dumb mistakes :P
 
Rear air tank bracket came in, I made the necessary changes at their shop, and sent in the PO to be produced. The air manifold bracket I wont have the proto til mon/tues. I don't want to pre-order too much of the spendy stuff but I have ordered all of the fittings and nylon hose that I will need for the first ten kits. I have the 2.5 tanks and 1.0 tanks in stock. I have a SMALL handful of VIAIR compressors.

The pulleys for the next round are done and being shipped to me on Tues. Those will go to anodize as soon as they come in. The brackets will go to production immediately after.

I need to go pick up more 210 fittings so that I can cover everyone for hoses that needs them.

@Razorbackcruiser on Monday I am going to send you out the suction line that fits your set-up. I'll need your report on that to make sure I'm good to go.
 
Sounds great! I'm your huckleberry!
 
Don't want to hover but should I be expecting a package?
 
Oh and I'll be playing with the pre-production Rear Tank/Compressor mount this morning so that I can turn on the production run.

IMG_9805.JPG
 
I would also be interested in just the tank and misc parts, i too have the metaltech sliders aswell.

Thanks
 
Ok after test fitting everything and finding 7 little nits I finally have a piece I'm happy with. Allow me to introduce the Rear Air Tank Shelf (RATS) :flipoff2:

Features:
• Native mounting on the 80 Series crossmember, second from the rear
• Mounts using existing bolt holes
• Comes with mounting hardware
• Mounting holes for the ARB CKMTA12 Twin Compressor
• Mounting holes for most VIAIR compressors
• Mounting holes for 1.0 and 2.5 Gallon tanks
• Holes for securing tubes, mounting regulators, SB50 Anderson plugs, etc.
• 12gauge rolled steel
• Powder Coated

Rear-Air-Tank-Bracket.png
 
I'll do my best but no promises. Haven't you ever heard of the "dirty south"?!?
 
Something that gets overlooked a lot when you are mounting an air tank to your vehicle, slope. You want all of the condensation to pool to the side of your drain valve. Otherwise you run the risk of rust inside the tank. On my air tank kits I include a piece of 3/8" Delrin spacer block to raise the end opposite the drain valve.
#themoreyouknow

IMG_9845.JPG
 
Meanwhile...

About to wire up a Viair 400C AirCompressor. The wires come pre-terminated but I'm not a fan of the connection terminals especially if this is going to be mounted under the truck and exposed to the elements. Trying to decide if I want to use the Anderson SB50 with the environmental boot or take both wires and use my MetriPack 2-pin weather tite connectors or just use their ground eyelet and just run a 1-pin Metri-Pack.

Shown: The SB50 in the left, the wires as is, the 2-pin Metri and 1-pin Metri.

IMG_0001.JPG
 
So here is how the final looks. It's no big deal but tons better than what the compressor comes with. The stock wiring is 12awg so I re-did the heatshrink on the ground ring, ran PET sleeping to protect both wires, used adhesive lined heatshrink and then finally the MetriPack 1-pin connector for the positive.

IMG_0010.JPG
 
Well...now that I committed to it I've changed my mind. Here's why:

* have the ground wire be a ring means the compressor doesn't have a true disconnect.
* only the positive wire is a true disconnect
* the ground still need to have a bolt removed in order to make the compressor removable.
* instead I should use a device side 2-pin Metri-Pack on the Viair keeping it truly a quick disconnect.
* on the source side I should have the ground go straight to a solid ground point where it never needs to be removed

I'm going to go ahead and switch it over to a 2-pin.
 
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