This is me being OCD stupid. Since I’m waiting for parts to arrive to complete the turbo install, I’m cleaning up everything I can. Right now I’m wrapping all accessible wire harnesses with F6 Woven wrap and using Tessa exterior tape for the clips.
So it’s like the split-loom corrugated plastic, but in a woven material?
What’s that applicator, glue?
I’m familiar with the woven material you slide over wires, but not split...
So it’s like the split-loom corrugated plastic, but in a woven material?
What’s that applicator, glue?
I’m familiar with the woven material you slide over wires, but not split...
Next stage of the cleanup is done. Lots still to go but I’m now down this rabbit hole of “while I’m there”. Gonna replace all the power steering hoses. Replacing the power steering res. Redoing all the battery cables. Redoing all the harness covering. Replacing the radiator and every component of the cooling system.
It’s great having most of this stuff ready to go in the shelf.
Thinking about hydrographics on the valve cover. I am thinking about just tying it into the wheels. I have Method 305 Beadlocks that came with the truck so considering something like this.
This is me being OCD stupid. Since I’m waiting for parts to arrive to complete the turbo install, I’m cleaning up everything I can. Right now I’m wrapping all accessible wire harnesses with F6 Woven wrap and using Tessa exterior tape for the clips.
Now quit posting up cool s*** like this. I just did a bunch of wiring and now I want to go in and replace the crappy plastic split loom. I already have more projects in the cue than I can handle and looks like I'll be going backward now.
Oil pump seal is leaking which is causing all the mess on the timing cover. Cleaning it all up is the first step. Thing is coated. Gonna have to replace the front crank seal “while I’m there”. Ugh, I hate doing these. Time to find a 304ft lb torque wrench.
Before/After on the cowl on the 80 Series. Removed the hood, took off the six JIS screws, removed the crappy old wiper arms, and then just slid out the cowl. Cleaned out everything and waxed it up. I’m gonna experiment with the screens a little before putting it all back together with all new rubber and brand new wiper arms.
My little bro Jason did the lion’s share of the heavy lifting. He’s small enough to fit into the engine bay and muscle the exhaust manifold out after sawzalling the Y-pipes off to make it easier to remove.
Easiest way to remove the large crank bolt on the 1FZ? A 30mm socket (seems there may be at least possible sizes) and a cheater bar under the frame of the passenger side. Two QUICK starter bumps and the crank bolt is loose.
So just HOW bad is the potential for doing the oil pump cover? Extreme. Done a handful of these over the years without issue. This time...this time I lose. Three OEM bolts would not budge. Tried Vessel drive with vice grips. Nada. Tried the impact with impact JIS bits. Nope. Tried easy out, it broke in the head of the bolt
Unfortunately the condenser had to come out. Impact worked on two and in the last used the Dremel to cut a notch in the screw head and impact driver to remove it finally. Really sucks but to be honest, I was kinda thinking of replacing the condenser anyway because of all the muck. Oh well.
Are you going to use JIS screws again? Wish I had put bolts or button head Allen’s in their place. Not looking forward to the next time I have to do this.
Are you going to use JIS screws again? Wish I had put bolts or button head Allen’s in their place. Not looking forward to the next time I have to do this.
No using hex/torx instead. The the countersink of the screwhead acts as an indexer for the cover. Since the cover isn’t pinned into place you can’t use standard hex bolts or SHCS because those won’t index properly.
