Wits end rear control arm press

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Speaking of this, wonder what happened to OP and my tools... :hmm: :hmm: :hmm:

Well, hold off returning them anyways, I had 2 kids bdays this month and kinda spent your deposit. 😜

Paul, u ever get your tools back?
 
Yeah, I ain't goin' that route. Jebus. :hillbilly:

It would be about the LAST thing I would try.

I'm thinking for the Panhard bushings I'll use a hole saw (1-3/8" holesaw which happens to be 35mm) to remove the center section of the old bushing (rubber and metal sleeve). It should get nearly all of it and leave only a small skin and the outer metal shell. Then use a hacksaw to cut a slot/kerf in the shell to relieve the pressure and tap the shell out or press it out at that point.

Should be much less dramatic than putting it all under tons of force and waiting for things to 'give'. 😳

I have a high torque, variable speed 1/2" drill. Pretty sure I can use it at low speed to cut through the rubber (even though the rubber is hard). We shall see.

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I'm thinking for the Panhard bushings I'll use a hole saw to remove the center section of the old bushing...

Welll...we shall see...not predicting success with that, having attempted to drill through the rubber before. But, it'll be fun.
Holesaw hints and difficulties - 1) workpiece rigidly clamped/restrained. 2) Holesaw really well piloted. 3) Drill speed really slow <100RPM(which I cannot do).
Now, if you can holesaw the rubber in a liquid nitrogen bath....:cool:

For me, the press method has become quite tame and predictable. You already have my best notes in the posts above. No more to say.
 
See post #34 ...section of pipe that is exactly(close) 53mm inside diameter.

Found it! What you need for the rear upper control arm press support is 2" Schedule 40 steel pipe. works perfect! - OR - buy one already made from Wits End.
Panhard rod is smaller - 42-43mm support ID. Can't remember for sure what I used, but the only thing I find in the box is 1 1/2" EMT steel conduit, it's 41mm I.D. which seems to work fine. Would prefer thicker wall stuff, but, whatever, it worked & held up OK, and they were a tight press.

>>>For anyone in the Phoenix area who wants to have one for cheap - Industrial Metal Supply on 48th St, South Phoenix has a bin full of 2" Schedule 40 cutoffs in the back-room remnants. Already cut & ready to go (but, recommend spending some time with a flat file in the vise squaring it up)

Now...just need to find a 60mm thingy for the front swing arm bushings.
 
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It would be about the LAST thing I would try.

I'm thinking for the Panhard bushings I'll use a hole saw (1-3/8" holesaw which happens to be 35mm) to remove the center section of the old bushing (rubber and metal sleeve). It should get nearly all of it and leave only a small skin and the outer metal shell. Then use a hacksaw to cut a slot/kerf in the shell to relieve the pressure and tap the shell out or press it out at that point.

Should be much less dramatic than putting it all under tons of force and waiting for things to 'give'. 😳

I have a high torque, variable speed 1/2" drill. Pretty sure I can use it at low speed to cut through the rubber (even though the rubber is hard). We shall see.

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I thought of that too, but I think this project is going to require old fashioned beans giving with the 20 tonner and probably a pinch of swearing and possibly some eye protection in the form of safety squints.

I will record the process and bring each rusty arm up from the depths the way Mel Fisher hauled gold bars up off the Atocha. :rainbow:

I am going one at a time and sending each piece to acid school and then I will POR15 them and then topcoat and then press in the bushings and re-install. Should look and act like new or better upon graduation.
 

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