Just finished pressing bushings for
rear upper control arms and both rear and front Panhard / track bars.
Was just about at my
absolute wits end 
trying to come up with a good 49mm press die for the rear upper control arm.
Everything in my 3/4" sockets was a little too big or too small.
Plenty of 2" things around...but 50.8mm? Nope, just a smidge too big. No lathe in my shop (much to my continual frustration).
With all that pressure going on - really needs to fully engage that bushing shell with a flat surface, and yet slide easily through.
Gotta be Goldie Locks - just right.
Over the years I've saved up a shoe box full of round thingies for press dies and bottom supports for various jobs.
Sometimes had to fab something up from layers of medium heavy wall tubing because I couldn't scrounge up the right thing.
So - already had a good strong 53mm press support piece.
Took a trip over to my favorite friendly neighborhood pawn shop, caliper in hand, hoping to get lucky.
Turned out, after browsing the entire place, they had a secret stash of 3/4" sockets behind the counter.
Pay dirt! A 49mm diameter socket - cost me $7.
Spent some time grinding the edge flat - round and round, until a bur could be felt at the edge.
A few licks with the 12" mill bastard file, and I've got a nice rear control arm press die.
The edge of the press die
MUST BE FLAT AND SQUARE !!!
Those of you who have used regular sockets without squaring them up - well, that's why it buggered things up.
Also - your whole press setup
MUST BE SQUARE - or pretty close to it.
Take time to shim things up if need be.
Sideways force components can cause things to "squirt" out sideways - that's an injury.
@MoCoNative - I think you've just proven that a 12 Ton press just isn't enough for this job?
Mine is a 20 Ton, and sometimes I wonder if its big enough, but it has handled every bushing I've fed it - front radius arms included.
BUT - early on, I did go ahead and replace all the critical loaded fasteners with Grade 8 & torqued 'em down real good.
AND - the support bridge upgrade made a huge improvement in rigidity.
Strongly suggest welding in some heavy plate there.
@Rollinns - I'm stumped about the notch to hold position?
I position all the pieces by looking and feeling before pressing on.
Fiddle around as needed until it's all looking good.
Nothing should shift around as you apply pressure - if it does? Retreat! Regroup! Back off and start over!
No hands on the work piece under pressure. Just daring it to hurt you there.
I don't see the slightest sideways movement when smacking it sideways with the hammer.
Also - I lubed the ID and OD with gear oil before pressing in the new bushing.
@Rifleman said it's fine to do that, as long as it's a liquid lube (no moly grease or other particles).
He's a machinist and knows these things.
I assume it helped some - but it certainly didn't just slide right in.
Easy at the top, and took more and more pressure as it got deeper - makes sense.
No drama or trouble though.
Test fit all the pieces - fit's just right:
Smack it while under pressure - to get it to release with less pressure (and less trauma!) than no smack.
BUT - would NOT smack it towards an onlooker - just to be safe.
Don't ask why the rear upper control arms are cut into pieces - it's a project.