ARCHIVE Wits’ End- 100series shop truck build

[NLXTACY]

Can you guys humor four likely obvious questions here (I come from a long line of not mechanically gifted forefathers, slowly but surely breaking the trend) -

1. Engine compartment cleaning - is your spray bottle a mix of water and dish soap, or what are you using (mine needing cleaning badly due to bad valve cover gasket, however want to make sure I'm using the right application)? I feel like I need to apologize for even asking that question...

2. Ignition Coil replacement vs. Boot Kit - given the cost of ignition coils, I'm just wondering how you 'know' they are ready for replacement? Is it as simple as a general rule of thumb that anything over a certain mileage mark (in my case 200k) gets replaced or is there telltale sign they are bad? Just making sure I'm not replacing otherwise good ignition coils (I'm guessing they are due to be replaced, but had to ask).

3. Starter - Just trying to get my 'while I'm in there' list complete - am I on track that while I'm replacing spark plugs, ignition coils, cover gaskets, PCV valve that I should also be replacing the starter? Seems like it would be a huge PITA to go back and do later when everything is already opened up. Also - replacing the entire starter is the more sure-fire approach vs. cleaning the contacts on original correct?

4. Radiator - I know there is an ongoing debate on OEM radiator vs. Denso and others. The ~$200 savings on Denso vs. OEM is compelling, can you give a quick comment on why you went Denso and hopefully push me out of analysis paralysis...

Thanks in advance and really appreciate the ongoing write up @NLXTACY - this will be my greatest lifetime mechanical achievement to date, so just trying to measure twice and cut once, triple stamp the double stamp, etc...

My 2¢:

1. I start with water and dawn dish soap. Everything gets drenched. Then I follow it up a few minutes later with a soft bristled, long-handled brush and just attack everything. Then rinse it off. From there I'll use Tub O' Towels everywhere so that everything has grease/dirt removed.

2. I had PO30X trouble codes so I knew which cylinder was the issue. Found several cracked tubes. So the uncracked ones I kept as spares and replaced with all new (more on that later).

3. I replaced the starter because I didn't have a choice. I took no chances so I bought a Denso unit. Broke two sensors taking off the plenum so got two new ones. While inside I replaced the intake gaskets and BOTH knock sensors because I didn't want to do that mess again.

4. I went Denso purely based on cost. No regrets. That being said, one Ron Davis has a replacement ready I will be going that route just cuz.

 

[NLXTACY]

Nothing to report except I just hit 250k

 

[NLXTACY]

Time to highlight “when Joey messes up”

On my own 100 I was tired of looking at much of a rake the truck had. Single fix is to adjust the torsion bars to lift the front and level it out. Did this knowing fully well that it’s not the smartest thing to do without dropping the diff or else the CV axles are at too extreme an angle. My reasoning, at the time, was I didn’t feel like diving into the suspension yet AND I’ll wait til it’s time to do other axle/steering stuff.

Well, I lost because since this is a truck that just sees street use for the shop I figure it wouldn’t be an issue. I lost because the torsion bar adjustment was too much and sure enough the CV boots leaked. On both sides. Ugh.

I wanted more time to work on other stuff but instead I forced a rebuild. Poop. At least I can take care of the ball joints and bushings and end links and and and…

 

[NLXTACY]

Side note at 258k:
* replaced OEM wipers
* replaced OEM front pads
* oil change with OEM filter

 

[Pucker5]

Time to highlight “when Joey messes up”

On my own 100 I was tired of looking at much of a rake the truck had. Single fix is to adjust the torsion bars to lift the front and level it out. Did this knowing fully well that it’s not the smartest thing to do without dropping the diff or else the CV axles are at too extreme an angle. My reasoning, at the time, was I didn’t feel like diving into the suspension yet AND I’ll wait til it’s time to do other axle/steering stuff.

Well, I lost because since this is a truck that just sees street use for the shop I figure it wouldn’t be an issue. I lost because the torsion bar adjustment was too much and sure enough the CV boots leaked. On both sides. Ugh.

I wanted more time to work on other stuff but instead I forced a rebuild. Poop. At least I can take care of the ball joints and bushings and end links and and and…

View attachment 2844978

What coils you got in the rear that made the rake so extreme

 

[NLXTACY]

What coils you got in the rear that made the rake so extreme

As far as I can see it’s all OEM

 

[Pucker5]

As far as I can see it’s all OEM

Hmm are your boot clamps shot? Factory yota is those one time snap ones

 

[NLXTACY]

Turns out that if you aren’t driving over 55MPH due to snow, rain and traffic, that you can get REALLY good mileage.

 

[94SRUNNER]

 

[2001LC]

Time to highlight “when Joey messes up”

On my own 100 I was tired of looking at much of a rake the truck had. Single fix is to adjust the torsion bars to lift the front and level it out. Did this knowing fully well that it’s not the smartest thing to do without dropping the diff or else the CV axles are at too extreme an angle. My reasoning, at the time, was I didn’t feel like diving into the suspension yet AND I’ll wait til it’s time to do other axle/steering stuff.

Well, I lost because since this is a truck that just sees street use for the shop I figure it wouldn’t be an issue. I lost because the torsion bar adjustment was too much and sure enough the CV boots leaked. On both sides. Ugh.

I wanted more time to work on other stuff but instead I forced a rebuild. Poop. At least I can take care of the ball joints and bushings and end links and and and…

View attachment 2844978

Hi Joey, Nice work!

I find most times these FDS slinging grease, is just weeps from loose clamps. What I find when I look close, is grease (grayish) weeping from between boot and axle from under clamp area. If no rips or holes in the boots. I just re-clamp. NAPA has a large and a small CV clamp. Typically no grease need be added.

That said I've found changing height, even with a diff drop. FDS (front drive shaft) go bad. Reports of this are from 5K to 20K miles after lift. Drop seems to buy extra time.

I do a lot of:
R&R of: FDS, hub flanges, cone washers, diff side seals (your seal install tool works great, THANKS) with knuckle & wheel bearing service and lower ball joints if needed.

If rack & pinon & tie rods, factory and still good. I R&R rack mounting bushing, if I feel HWY wondering in steering and all else as it should be. Along with refresh stabilizer system. They then hug the road in the curves, like day it came from the factory.

Which is all par for 250K miles.

Clip off old clamp and push back boot, to clean axle groove boot seat in.

NAPA small clamp

Clip in band to tightest hole and crimp. Inspect every 5k miles and re-sung as needed.

Tap in tail of clip band for a finished look.

 

[Kabanstva]

400+ miles to a tank. Wow. I start to get worried and looking for gas stations at 200 miles.