Wiring plug for ARB fridge

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Just to clarify, not talking about any ground inside the ARB fridge. Rather, I meant to check the ground on your receptacle and/or wiring the wiring to it.

Test runs are always good with 12 volt stuff. I still haven't gotten my CPAP machine to run off 12 volts. I can run it through the inverter and it works OK, but the conversion in the inverter wastes a lot of energy. The CPAP has a similar issue to your ARB, maybe even more sensitive since it is a medical device, i.e. a low voltage warning on 12 volts.


Thanx. So, to check the ground on the ARB I have to take the rear plate off...hmmm...damn blinking red light :mad:

I have it running in the house, it's held to 37-39* all night. Going to load it up w/ some water bottles, toss it in the Jeep and run it. See what happens before I get too excited about that blinking red light. Hopefully it doesn't come back.

If it does, I might see about a Yellowtop and go from there.

Thanx,

B
 
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Gotcha, makes sense. I can run that pretty easily.

I have it running in the house right now, put a cup of water and a thermometer in the bottom and one in the top...set the stat at 37*...both cups are at 45* or so after a full night...WTH?

I got the water up to 110* and it took more than a few hours to get it below 50*...not like the water was all that hot to take that long to cool down. Not what I read via reviews and other writeups on these things anyway.

Maybe I need to load it up w/ some more stuff as it runs more efficiently w/ items in it (so I've read). However, it should sit at 37* if I set it at 37*, so I'm a bit nervous now.

Thoughts?

B
 
Fridges aren't as efficient when they are empty, so that could affect things. However, my Edgestar pulls the temp down very quickly when empty even on the standard (NOT the fast freeze) setting, like in half an hour or so.

I suspect you may have an issue with the ARB. Try loading it with some frozen stuff and see what happens, whether it can hold the temp or not.
 
Yeah, try the fridge with a load, but I'd have thought it should have cooled the water over night. Stick a case of soda in or a gallon of water. It is possible it has a bum controller board.
 
Yeah, try the fridge with a load, but I'd have thought it should have cooled the water over night. Stick a case of soda in or a gallon of water. It is possible it has a bum controller board.

Now that you mentioned the controller board...the power light doesn't seem all that bright when it's plugged in. Real dim.

I'll do a full load tonight w/ some frozen water jugs and some veggies...things that won't cost me anything to lose if it's not working properly.

Hate to think this would be a bad unit, after all the positive stuff I've heard about them :o

Thanx,

B
 
This might be a bit long, but if you have any experience in this area please let me know what I can do to remedy my chilling issue (my perceived issue, perhaps). I’ve been communicating w/ an ARB tech rep, he has been good to respond in a timely manner, just not sure I’m comfortable w/ dragging it on nicely if it should just be replaced.

The fridge does not cool down to proper temps. I first plugged it into my vehicle (has a 10ga wire setup, 15 amp fuse and a Marinco locking plug) and set it to 45*, it ran for a few minutes and my red 'check' like came on the face of the fridge. I looked at the troubleshooting info and it said I may have a weak battery. I checked my vehicle battery and it load tested fine. I unplugged it, reset it, it ran for no more than a minute and the red light came back on...not solid, but blinking every couple of seconds. He recommended I use the medium protection and not the high, I’ll try that later, on to testing it in the house.

I then took it inside my house, plugged it into the home outlet, set it to 37* and placed two thermometers in it; one in the bottom basket and one in the top area. The two thermometers were placed in water, the water temp was at 110* when I placed it in the fridge, checked 2 hours later it was only down to 70*. I let it stand over night and it was only at 46* after several more hours of cooling. I thought these temps should be closer to the preferred setting w/in 30 minutes to an hour, at the very least.

Then, after having it plugged in for over 12 hours the thermometers I have in there both read 46*...with the temp gauge set at 37*. I do notice the face gauge bounces between 35-39* throughout the evening but the internal temp read just 46*. He recommended I turn it down more:

“turn the fridge colder. I've used these extensively over the past couple of years and find that the ideal setting for refrigeration is 30-32 degrees. The sensor for the temp is in the middle of the floor of the fridge, essentially the coldest spot which makes it difficult to correlate with a second temp gauge due to the position. If you set it near 30 you will find have a safe temp range throughout the cabin without actually freezing your food. At 37 the top of the cabinet could be several degrees warmer, combined with different calibrations (and locations) of the various gauges easily explaining the differing numbers you're seeing here.”

I have also been told that it is more efficient when full so I placed enough stuff in the fridge to consider it fully packed w/out over filling it (soda, fridge goods and even a few small ice packs), turned it down to 31*, it has been bouncing between 29-33* throughout the night. It has been on now for over 40 hours and my thermometer is sitting at 40*. So, it has come down about 6 more degrees but not what I'd consider reasonable, since that wouldn't suffice to keep things where they should be during refrigeration on a trip as things are removed from it (right?); I'd be as well off w/ a plain cooler w/ ice if that were the case.

My thermometer in the basket is sitting at 4" above the floor, centered...the one in the upper portion is centered and reads 44*, just 2* cooler than previous temp setting.

While to the touch the contents feel cool, I drank a soda after it had sat in there for over 12 hours and it certainly wasn't cold enough to say that it would be acceptable had it been a beer after a long hot day at the end of a journey.

I have not tested again in my vehicle yet, I will do that once I'm comfortable knowing that the temp is where it should be in the house first. I just don't know that setting it at 31* and having a temp at 40* inside is acceptable. And I don't think turning it down, again, any lower is the answer.

What am I missing here? I don't believe it should be this difficult to get it to proper temp. And I even thought my thermometers could be off some, but they are good from -40* to 160* and each measures the same temp while inside. I find it hard to believe both could be wrong yet read the same.

Anyway, what more can I do to feel comfortable that my contents are being properly chilled?

Lastly, am I overreacting and this is actually within tolerance and I’m getting worked up over nothing? I just dropped good coin on this, I want to know that I’m not paranoid ;)

Thanks for reading all that!!! Thanks in advance for any helpful and/or constructive comments!

B
 
My take on things is that you've got a bum ARB. It should match, if not exceed, the cooling capacity of my Edgestar.

You could try it on the medium protection setting. That might have nothing to do with the lack of cooling, unless it keeps shutting down intermittently and that accounts for the lack of cooling. It's worth a try.

Unless that fixes things, I'd be looking to test ARB's warranty service or your dealer's return policy at this point.
 
Well, from other ARB owners, now I'm being told the swings are normal with theirs as well. At least they see them too. Since there is no fan in these units to move the air it is quite possible that the air temp will differ by a couple degrees from top to bottom, as well as in the basket area.

Others have had to "play" with the temp to get their setting just right for them. I'm going to use 32* for now. Seems odd to me tho, I figured I'd just plug it in, set the temp and be set. Guess that was naive :o

Hmmm...I'm going to toss some good beers in it tonight and see how they taste when I get home tomorrow. That should be a real test :beer:

Anyone else w/ thoughts is welcome to keep adding...this isn't over.

B
 
The upper basket area is intended to be warmer than the other portions of the fridge, in the manual they call it a dairy shelf or something like that.
I think the problem with yours is it is set way too warm..31*!!! I have mine at -1*..silly Americans ;)

Seriously though, set it even lower. Keep going till things start freezing, then back it up a few notches. I think the external temp readout is really not that accurate, as I said I have mine set at -1 (and yes it bounces up and down a degree or two), and nothing freezes, just keeps the beer nice and chilly.
I had it set at -5 and -7, and that froze things up quite well.

As for your battery, try charging it up overnight and then hook the fridge up to it. My battery also tested fine, but due to my vehicle not being a daily driver anymore, the charge had actually dropped down some, and my fridge would barely run a day before the red check light came on. Once I charged the battery up overnight, the fridge can run a couple days just sitting (set on high).
 
Thanks for the response. I've been on Expedition Portal and got some good feedback too.

Over the past few days I've learned that it needs to be set at least 10* cooler than what you want it inside. I set it at 23* and it holds at 30 inside now. I'm aware of the upper section, that section seems fine to me for what it's intentions are.

I too think that trying to cool it from ambient to chilled directly from the battery was probably an issue. I think if I start it in the house, like I'm testing now, it should plug into the Jeep and be fine to run for a while.

I'll be running some roads w/ it this weekend to see if it maintains.

Thanks again,

B
 
wait...what? Jeep?

There's your problem right there! :grinpimp:

Yep ;p

Didn't you read the first page...or my sig - LOL!

I'll take the hit,

B
 
I think the problem with yours is it is set way too warm..31*!!! I have mine at -1*..silly Americans ;)

Seriously though, set it even lower. Keep going till things start freezing, then back it up a few notches. I think the external temp readout is really not that accurate, as I said I have mine set at -1 (and yes it bounces up and down a degree or two), and nothing freezes, just keeps the beer nice and chilly.
I had it set at -5 and -7, and that froze things up quite well...

Haven't used an ARB, but are the controls such that you can switch between F and C readouts and easy to get confused? Because 31 C is a whole different thing than 31F:confused:

Kind of makes me even more happy with our trailer park Edgestar. Plug that baby in and it chills right down. When I first got it it was a 90+ day. I sat it in partial shade on the patio, empty, and had it down to freezing in half an hour even without the fast freeze.

On the other hand, if the ARB is only sipping the electrons while taking its time, that's good, too.:hhmm:
The Edgestar do like hogging the electrons.
 
I've been running an ARB for several years now, and I agree that the temp variances are not insignificant, and I also agree about setting the temp lower. I've been running mine at 33 or 35* and it's perfect for keeping beers cold, meat fresh, and veggies crisp without getting anything close to freezing. Use the back shelf for things that don't need as much cold, like yogurt, butter, fruit, etc.

I'll also mention that I gave up on the 12 volt socket plugs after trying several different varieties including the Marinco. The first problem was that I couldn't get a secure enough lock (which I finally solved with the Marinco), but the other, more significant issue was with voltage drops at the plug. I was having trouble with the unit doing a low voltage shutdown when the compressor cycled on, especially in temps > 85*. My battery had > 12v at the terminal, and no measurable voltage loss on the wires to the back of the truck, but when the fridge compressor cycled on, it was dropping below 10.6 IIRC (the low voltage shut down point). I got a recommendation from Christo and some other guys to try out the Anderson plugs - a popular upgrade for the Aussie guys with trailers and travel rigs. Here's what I ended up with:

anderson1.JPG


Removed the male socket plug from the ARB cord and replaced it with an anderson plug.

anderson2.JPG


Voltage has been solid since I made the switch, and even when my aux battery is down around 11V the compressor still fires up and keeps cooling. And the plugs seem to be pretty vibration resistant so far, and they do make pins and links to further secure the plugs if needed.

Just another option to consider.
 
OK, where did you find the panel mount Anderson socket? I've always just used dangling wires with a connector on the end. Panel mounting would be better.
 
Yep, Anderson plugs have a solid rep. Good suggestion and one to keep in mind.

So far, my Marinco install is preforming OK, but I won't hesitate to upgrade it if need be. Nothing like warm beer and tepid steak to ruin one of those fine moments in the outdoors.:p
 
The Anderson connector is an option; I use them for different purposes. But another plug/receptacle option you may want to consider is the Euro style/Hella 12V receptacle.

I first discovered this type of positive engage plug style with my Kimberley Kamper. Those of you from the BMW motorcycle world know them well. Very, very positive engagement; never had an issue.

FWIW I have also tried the Marinco posi-twist lock 12v receptacle. It worked for a while but then it became less positively engaged to the point I couldn't trust it to transfer current in the LC to the Waeco. Its gone now :rolleyes:

My Waeco came with the plug below. It works with the inferior (IMO) american style cigarette type 12v receptacle by using the snap on red cap adapter. And for the euro/Hella style you use it without the red cap; no other adapters to make for going back and forth between the different plug styles. Super-duper!

Here for the plug shown below: NEW 12V Cigarette Plug for Hella/Merit Auto/RV/4WD/Boat | eBay

Here for Powerlet accessories: Shop by Category - Powerlet Products
(or typically also found at BMW motorcycle dealerships). Edit: I see Powerlet now carries the plug shown below.
DSC_5961.webp
DSC_5962.webp
 
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spressomon,
That's interesting. IIRC, the plug you're showing is very nearly the same visually as the one that came with my Edgestar. If that red ring is supposed to help with it staying in US-style 12 volt receptacles, that's why I went with a Marinco right off the bat. The darn thing would not stay in. Didn't throw it away....

Off course, maybe it was because it was a cheap knockoff of the spendy BMW-version ones? I did take a look at pricing and they aren't cheap. On the other hand, reliable power is worth every penny.

So I'm guessing using the proper receptacle results in a positive lock? Maybe I just need the right locking receptacle to use with it?
 

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