Winter is coming!!! What to do?

[LS1FJ40]

I have no experience with prophylactic undercarriage washing but wonder if putting a few cheap sprinklers out and a timer with low pressure on the water supply wouldn't achieve the same results with even less effort.

In my opinion I don't think it gets in to the nooks and crannies well enough. But maybe I'm a little OCD. I've had others recommend this but just don't think it gets in to the wheel wells and doors good enough. Plus it's kind of fun and it makes my 80 feel special.

 

[LS1FJ40]

The majority of the GCLC guys, including me, use Fluid Film. I did a good coating when I bought Creampuff in Phoenix and a second full tilt spray last October. I plan to do another one next month as well. I did 5 trucks in my driveway last year, but Dave Crum will be offering the use of his shop with a lift this year for the first time for an hourly rate.
1 gallon is enough to do 1.5 80 Series and costs about $40.

You can also pick up spray cans of FluidFilm at Lowe's Home Improvement stores (shameless plug for my employer). Granted you'll probably need 8-10 of them to do an 80...

 

[Whileemptyheadsdream]

It sounds like Fluid Film is the way to go If you Take an 80 out on Salty Roads. I have 2 gallons that I have not used. I will not drive them In winter unless I am forced to. A rust free Garage kept 80 Is becoming quite rare. I live near Chicago so I know salt spray gets Everywhere. I'm not dictating anything just letting you know That 80s as you have discribed with lower miles will be very valuable sooner than most think. Sounds like a nice L/C. Good Luck. !

 

[Howard705]

Washing and flushing is the thing to do-BUT-doesn't do much good if you drive right back through it and the salt spray first thing the next morning. Either park it or wait until the roads are dry-which they rarely are in IL. Parking it in the garage at night does nothing either-then it's just warm salt. The inside of the doors/rockers/hood/tailgate/etc/etc get filled with salt too- I flush it all.

 

[LS1FJ40]

Washing and flushing is the thing to do-BUT-doesn't do much good if you drive right back through it and the salt spray first thing the next morning. Either park it or wait until the roads are dry-which they rarely are in IL. Parking it in the garage at night does nothing either-then it's just warm salt. The inside of the doors/rockers/hood/tailgate/etc/etc get filled with salt too- I flush it all.

Simple solution, wash it again.

 

[retrofive]

Simple solution, wash it again.

So, like, rinse and repeat.

 

[wcbr]

How much of a mess does the application process of Fluid Film create? Should you park over a tarp or cardboard to not have an oil slick in the garage/driveway while applying ?

I assume a liberal coating is the best practice.

We have salt and some sort of beet-juice cocktail used here in Columbus, OH.

 

[Howard705]

Simple but time consuming-wash every night? There's no way to avoid it every day that you drive it-Drive to work at 5:00am it's on it all over again. Doesn't really matter how much-it's all cancerous. I wait until the roads are clean/dry again before washing-and get every possible spot underneath-and my winter one is RUSTY but don't want it worse. Even after the main road surface is dry the salt-laden salt in the sides starts melting and flowing through the roads. My 100% cure is don't drive the good one in ANY salt.

 

[retrofive]

How much of a mess does the application process of Fluid Film create? Should you park over a tarp or cardboard to not have an oil slick in the garage/driveway while applying ?

I assume a liberal coating is the best practice.

We have salt and some sort of beet-juice cocktail used here in Columbus, OH.

@LandCruiserPhil took some pics, but forget which thread. He did lay down some cardboard or something IIRC. The spray method looks like it could get a bit messy. I've only used the small spray cans and never been an issue. Now doing the entire under-carriage.....

That and FF has a bit of funky smell, quickly goes away.

 

[LS1FJ40]

Simple but time consuming-wash every night? There's no way to avoid it every day that you drive it-Drive to work at 5:00am it's on it all over again. Doesn't really matter how much-it's all cancerous. I wait until the roads are clean/dry again before washing-and get every possible spot underneath-and my winter one is RUSTY but don't want it worse. Even after the main road surface is dry the salt-laden salt in the sides starts melting and flowing through the roads. My 100% cure is don't drive the good one in ANY salt.

What do I know I've only had my 80 for 23 years and driven all winter and don't have any rust. All while living in Iowa.

But by all means let it sit in the garage and be a garage queen.

 

[MoustacheMike]

If you want to protect your vehicle from rust I strongly recommend MasterSeries Silver primer & AG111 topcoat. Two coats of Master Series Silver and one coat of AG111 provides protection rust protection for 14,000 hours in Salt Spray testing, lasts for 90 days of immersion in acetone without softening, and will not rust beyond surface scratches to the coating.

I had my LX450 under coated at an auto restoration shop with 3 coats of Silver, and 2 coats of AG111 (shop applied 1 extra coat of Silver and AG111, normally it's just 2 coats of silver and 1 coat AG111 but there was enough left over product for one additional coating of each). So with my five coats instead of the standard 3, in theory I should have zero rust issues for 20yrs or more with little to no cleaning required.

So far it's been two years since I had the undercarriage treated and the LX450 is 100% rust free still and looks like a brand new vehicle (when viewed from underneath anyways). Every time the vehicle ends up on a lift I end up getting asked by someone how I keep the underside of my vehicle so pristine. Oh and with regards to cleaning off the salt, me or the wife will take it through a carwash 2 or 3 times during the winter.


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[Hornd]

This is great news. Here in Boone, NC cars last about 23 seconds in the winter before completely rusting out.
Is there any areas underneath the 80 that this stuff should not be applied to?

http://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-nas1-Gallon/dp/B004NDDCKK/?tag=ihco-20:

Don't spray it on Exhaust (just burns off). It stinks a little for a day or so till it burns off. I'd give door hinges and hood latch a quick shot too. Don't forget rocker panels and spare tire carrier. Might be worth it to drop spare down then put back up after done.
There are tons of holes in frame rails to spray inside. Hit brake lines and fuel lines too.

 

[jonheld]

You can also pick up spray cans of FluidFilm at Lowe's Home Improvement stores (shameless plug for my employer). Granted you'll probably need 8-10 of them to do an 80...

I had a case of 12 spray cans shipped in advance to the seller and I packed 3 Tyvek suits in my carry on. We used almost all 12 cans in the hotel parking lot before we got on the road home. It was pretty funny.

 

[Hornd]

How much of a mess does the application process of Fluid Film create? Should you park over a tarp or cardboard to not have an oil slick in the garage/driveway while applying ?

I assume a liberal coating is the best practice.

We have salt and some sort of beet-juice cocktail used here in Columbus, OH.

If your careful with fluid film you won't have any mess. Stuff has consistency of mayo.

 

[jonheld]

Don't spray it on Exhaust (just burns off). It stinks a little for a day or so till it burns off. I'd give door hinges and hood latch a quick shot too. Don't forget rocker panels and spare tire carrier. Might be worth it to drop spare down then put back up after done.
There are tons of holes in frame rails to spray inside. Hit brake lines and fuel lines too.

That's the nice thing about applying it with a spray gun. It atomizes the liquid and it literally gets everywhere while you're spraying. I hit every surface with it and you can't keep it off the exhaust even if you're really careful. When I installed my speakers in the doors I sprayed the crap out of the inside of the door panels. In fact whenever I have any of the inside panels off, the exposed sheet metal gets a quick spray. I removed the hatch plastic and made sure to get a good coating where the windshield bottom edge loves to start rusting. I sprayed in between body panels wherever I could.
Basically the same idea as salt spray when you're driving. It gets everywhere.

 

[jonheld]

How much of a mess does the application process of Fluid Film create? Should you park over a tarp or cardboard to not have an oil slick in the garage/driveway while applying ?

I assume a liberal coating is the best practice.

We have salt and some sort of beet-juice cocktail used here in Columbus, OH.

Take a look at post# 28 on this thread
Rust proofing with cosmoline
It shows my setup when I did 5 trucks in half a day.

 

[retrofive]

Take a look at post# 28 on this thread
Rust proofing with cosmoline
It shows my setup when I did 5 trucks in half a day.

Sorry @jonheld it was your post I was thinking about applying, not LCP's. Bart fart.

 

[08720]

Stock up on FluidFilm.

I live in Ohio so am very familiar with this problem. Adopted the system like others have said, power wash often and apply Fluid Film (I've mixed used ATF when I've had some) often. Often is the key as I found a single application doesn't last as long as we would like in the back (rear axle back).

 

[08720]

This is great news. Here in Boone, NC cars last about 23 seconds in the winter before completely rusting out.
Is there any areas underneath the 80 that this stuff should not be applied to?

http://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-nas1-Gallon/dp/B004NDDCKK/?tag=ihco-20:

It can go everywhere. Dip your bolts in it to help displace moisture for easy removal in the future, battery terminals, whatever. Style your hair when you are done spraying it. It is magic. Just watch the back end and re-apply after a good wash. I purchased an undercoating gun with a wand extension to penetrate further into the frame. Makes the application quick. I do it in the driveway as the gun leaves a thin film on the shop floor. I should add that this is my DD which could explain the need for increased application frequency for me.

 

[JCruse]

In my opinion I don't think it gets in to the nooks and crannies well enough. But maybe I'm a little OCD. I've had others recommend this but just don't think it gets in to the wheel wells and doors good enough. Plus it's kind of fun and it makes my 80 feel special.

You may be right but I'm not entirely sure of that. It says there's no solvent in it but at least with the spray cans when applied it bubbles wherever there's a crease, slot or joint and seems to sort of percolate into the cracks.




I did part of the frame and some other bits as a test to see what it's like applied thicker that my previous application. It holds up much better that way. I'm going to get more FF cans and do the frame, suspension and axles/diffs later this year.