Windshield Replacement-- replace gasket? Sealant?

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sjpitts

sjpitts

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It looks like I will need a new windshield for my 93 80. This is being paid for by my insurance, so they want me to use one of those mobile replacement companies. I am a little leary of those guys, so I am going to watch them carefully. At least they claim to use OEM parts.

So two questions, should I insist that they replace the windshield gasket at the same time? I think my current gasket is original, so it is 13 years old. What is the part number for that gasket? (so I can check up on them).

And what is the correct sealant they are supposed to use?

Anything else to watch out for?

Jared

PS-- called my local toyota dealer, and they don't replace windshields
 
I am very much interested in this as I discovered my widndshield was leaking water in heavy rain.

Buck Buchanan
 
There are two common replacement windshields floating about. One has tint on the top edge, one doesn't. Get the tinted one.

I was told that replacing the windshield on these is VERY easy for these places. Kind of a pop out pop in scenario. They did mine in about 15 minutes after I drove around town for an hour to catch up to a tinted windshield. The first location only had the untinted version. It has never leaked and was replaced due to a stone chip crack that spread.
 
Ask for PPG, Pilkington or Toyota and don't give in. Others are cut unevenly and have uneven edges and are cheaper const. Definately get the new gasket as the original is glued in and will streatch or tear when removed. Been there with a leaky window because of poor instals.
 
Do a search on this. I'm suprised no one has mentioned it, the gasket must be glued in or it will leak. The glass companies will not want to do this. Either get a copy of the FSM page showing the correct glass installation procedures or point out the sealant on the old gasket as they struggle to pull it out. Get a leak guarantee, and if they don't use sealant, test it with a high pressure nozzle before they leave- they'll be getting their tools out again. Even if it happens to seal right then, the movement of the cab will cause it to leak eventually.

-Spike
 
100% NEED the sealant. I had my windshield replaced, didn't have the sealant put in, and didn't notice the small steady stream of water leaking in the driver's lower corner. Still dealing with some electrical gremlins every now and then.
Upside is that I got to learn how to access the gazzilion or so wire terminals in the driver's footwell...

So, anyway...get the sealant. Save yourself the headache.

cool,

seth
 
-Spike- said:
Do a search on this. I'm suprised no one has mentioned it, the gasket must be glued in or it will leak. The glass companies will not want to do this. Either get a copy of the FSM page showing the correct glass installation procedures or point out the sealant on the old gasket as they struggle to pull it out. Get a leak guarantee, and if they don't use sealant, test it with a high pressure nozzle before they leave- they'll be getting their tools out again. Even if it happens to seal right then, the movement of the cab will cause it to leak eventually.

-Spike
Click to expand...
Right on. They will not want to use sealant/glue, but IIRC it needs to be glued on both sides, ie. windshield to gasket, and gasket to body. Darn, I though I had saved that part of the instructions on PDF, but I can't find it now.
 
Urethane, IIRC. It's the standard stuff they use.

2020 edit- Urethane cures and gets hard, and is used on windshields that do not have a gasket. I believe a butyl sealant is what is specced for our windshields, but I'm not 100% positive.

-Spike
 
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When using urethane try to have them use Dow Express urethane, very quick setup & will bond to all paints & glass types. Not to mention I know it cures VERY VERY quick;)
 
Must use copious amounts of sealant, many here have run into this problem, apparently windshield installers think that when there is a gasket no sealant is used, must be some other domestic vehicle out there where this is the case, it is not the case with the 80 series. If a new gasket is installed with no sealant it willleak

Get a photocopy or print out of the FSM and give it to the installer. Demand they follow these instructions before they start work.
 
Jared, I can print the pages if you want to stop by?

Brian and I put the windshield in Sunny Belly, a used gasket with rock rash and no sealer. He reports no leaks, but it could just be an AZ thing, rain what's that?:D
 
I just noticed a wet floorboard after washing the truck. Again. Mother fu.....

I would go one step beyond what some people have said here about sealant. You not only need a new OEM gasket, AND urethane sealant, but they need to be done at the same time. The windshield was replaced right before I bought the truck and leaked in a heavy rain. It also had a little rust bubble forming under the gasket's edge. I had it pulled, repaired, and re-installed. New gasket. No sealant. I threw a fit, because it leaked. I had the truck for a couple weeks, then took it back in. Still leaked afterward. Took it back in and they ended up breaking the glass pulling it. New gasket, new glass, no sealant, even after I jumped up and down about it. They had the FSM pages. I insisted and they agreed. Still no sealant when I picked it up. One week. Ready to blow my mental PHH, they finally came out and urethaned the hell out of it. It lasted over the summer, and just as it's starting to rain again in OR, it leaks. Rat bastard mother f..................................................... AAAAAaaaahhhh!!!

I'm very close to insisting on OEM glass, new OEM seal, and just having it done over again by a different installer. The problem is that nobody does their own glass. Even the local dealers contract out with the jackass mobile guys. What to do, what to do? Good luck, man. INSIST on OEM parts, top quality urethane (NOT silicone), and copious quantities at the time of initial istall.
 
Also without urethane sealing the windshield you will get a rattle in the dash.

I'm also curious how you can even use the old gasket since it should be full of urethane. Also also destroying the old gasket is the easiest way to remove the windshield and will help prevent breaking the glass on removal.
 
Darwood said:
... Also also destroying the old gasket is the easiest way to remove the windshield and will help prevent breaking the glass on removal.
Click to expand...

Wasn't a problem on Sunny Belly, the windshield came right out when the roof crushed down! :eek: :D
 
Agree on the sealant. It MUST be applied to the body and to the glass. The glass shops don't like to do this as it takes time and actual skill to do. As noted above, they'll even tell you on the phone they'll do it, then turn to Bob and tell him to go put a w/s in without mentioning it. Watch them work. Watch them put URETHANE sealant on both surfaces. Watch them put palm size dents above your w/s and on the cowl panel while they work. Get a written guarantee against leaks and don't deal with any shop that won't provide that.

The dash rattle is an amazing insight. I spent the better part of 3 years trying to find a dash rattle that ended up simply being the w/s creaking in the seal as I had not learned the lessons being told here about sealant. Also, I have one 80 with the tint band at the w/s top and agree with Rick - I hate it. When it will really drive you crazy is driving around in beautiful Cruiser country as you have to lean down to see the tops of mountains, etc. Wear sunglasses and enjoy the view.

DougM
 
-Spike- said:
Urethane, IIRC. It's the standard stuff they use.

2020 edit- Urethane cures and gets hard, and is used on windshields that do not have a gasket. I believe a butyl sealant is what is specced for our windshields, but I'm not 100% positive.

-Spike
Click to expand...

Right now I am dealing with leaks and "know it all" installers that think they know how to deal with it, I live in Venezuela and when they see an instruction page in English they say "Oh no that's in their country, here is a different procedure" :devil: So far, 4 failed attempts at 2 different places.

So, I think I found an installer willing to do it the way FSM states it should be done, which I hope to do in a few weeks.

Now, what I researched for adhesives for this work, the Sikaflex 256HV is not butyl, is Uretane, the HV stands for High Viscosity but Sika doesn't manufacture it anymore but they still have Sikaflex 256. But, Dupont manufacrures Betaseal DOW U-418HV which, as you guessed it, HV is High Viscosity, so this one is the closest one to the specification.

3M has a Butyl substitute, the "Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound" Part Number 08509 that's supposed to keep flexible for years. I asked 3M if they recommend this product and they answered by email the following:

autotrades@mmm.com​

Wed, Oct 13, 3:52 PM (4 days ago)
to me


Hello Erick,

Thank you for contacting 3M, where we apply science to life.

In short, the product mentioned (PN 8509, 3M Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound) SHOULD NOT be used for the installation of the windshield glass itself. For this repair, you should refer to Toyota’s repair manual for this vehicle or any official statements made by Toyota as it refers to the products and procedures they call out for glass replacement.

3M PN 8509 is “Designed for creating seal between rubber windshield gasket and auto body” – so while it may have reason for use on the rubber weatherstrip (also to be confirmed by Toyota repair manuals and official statements), it should not be used for the installment of the glass windshield.


All my best,

Erin

Erin Suchara | Application Engineer
Automotive Aftermarket Division

-------

So far, it's very confusing, already bought the 3M product and thinking about buying the DOW U-418HV. The first one to make the sealing of the lip around the glass and the second one to glue the glass in the weatherstrip insert and have the best of both worlds but I think the DOW product is what approaches the best the Sikaflex 256HV wanted to share my thoughts about this subject and will tell you how it turns out once I have it installed.
 
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In a somewhat ironic twist, I was the one that started this thread so many years ago. I went to the trouble of finding recommended person to install the windshield and watched them do it. And it has leaked on and off ever since. :grumpy:

I think that the mistake the guy made was not to use the sealant on "both contact surfaces". The FSM says to use the PN 08833-00030 sealant both between the gasket and glass and between the gasket and the body. The guy I had do it did only one of those-- although I am not sure which one after all these years.

I don't think you can get the toyota sealant anymore. But I think 3M might make an equivalent. I recall seeing a thread to that effect. Some day I might try and add that sealant to the side that is missing it. If I could figure out which one it is. But maybe at this point I should just have the windshield replaced again and watch to make sure the guy puts sealant in both grooves.

Here is a picture from the FSM


1634521515285.webp
 
sjpitts said:
In a somewhat ironic twist, I was the one that started this thread so many years ago. I went to the trouble of finding recommended person to install the windshield and watched them do it. And it has leaked on and off ever since. :grumpy:

I think that the mistake the guy made was not to use the sealant on "both contact surfaces". The FSM says to use the PN 08833-00030 sealant both between the gasket and glass and between the gasket and the body. The guy I had do it did only one of those-- although I am not sure which one after all these years.

I don't think you can get the toyota sealant anymore. But I think 3M might make an equivalent. I recall seeing a thread to that effect. Some day I might try and add that sealant to the side that is missing it. If I could figure out which one it is. But maybe at this point I should just have the windshield replaced again and watch to make sure the guy puts sealant in both grooves.

Here is a picture from the FSM


View attachment 2814870
Click to expand...

Thanks for posting this picture, the manual I have in PDF doesn't show that image, it says to apply the Sikaflex 256HV to both lips and only mentions the Toyota sealer (08833-00030) in the verification process testing for leaks and sealing them accordingly. Which version of the manual do you have?

Edit: I've been researching this subject for months, but today I was lucky, I found the Toyota product (08833-00030) in a few sites that I don't know their reputation and then suddenly found this in ebay, not the same number but gives an idea.

www.ebay.com

0883300070 Genuine Toyota Adhesive 08833-00070 for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 0883300070 Genuine Toyota Adhesive 08833-00070 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com www.ebay.com

Then kept looking and found the product with the manufacturer brand name in it:

www.allfourx4.com.au

ThreeBond 1324 Medium Strength Nut Lock Adhesive Sealant 6132450

ThreeBond 1324 Medium Strength Nut Lock Adhesive Sealant 50g 61324-50
www.allfourx4.com.au www.allfourx4.com.au

From their text I can say that PN 08833-00030 is just a liquid sealer (butyl perhaps?) or just a flowable sealant used to fix minor leaks after windshield install, it seems Toyota had a hard time repairing windshields outside from assembly line.
 
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