Windscreen/roof moulding causing leaking? (1 Viewer)

[SMLE]

Hi folks,

Long story short, I picked up my 2004 LC 2 days ago and I've started noticing some issues which I want to address.

The windscreen needs replacing as it's scratched to death so I'm going to get it replaced, however the moulding down the sides of the windscreen is barely in situ, and has multiple missing rivets.

It's also missing the rubber insert which slots inside and keeps water directly off the rivet areas.

I believe this is allowing water to get into the A Pillars and cause some wider issues relating to fusebox.

I'm going to order new rubber inserts and rivets from Toyota later today so the windscreen fitter can install them when they're done, however I've noticed the sealing strip on the roof from the windscreen to the first roof bar mounting doesn't look right.

The drivers side looks like the bit coming from the rear of the car has been cut down slightly compared to the passenger side.

Pics below showing passenger side, driver side and then passenger side windscreen moulding.

A few questions:

- if I were seal in the rivets on the windscreen moulding to ensure no water ingress, will it still cause issues if the water gets down in this roof moulding/seal gap?

- If it does, shall is it simple enough to change this long strip of sealing that goes along the roof channels from the rear? (Not sure exactly how long it is as it seems to be under the 'outer' moulding)

- is the idea that no water whatsoever can get into the roof channels or is it just the less the better?

- the windscreen moulding seems to stick out a bit on the curve of the roof on the drivers side, is that an issue?

Any other comments/thoughts welcome!

Thanks!

 

[2001LC]

Bye Bye to The King: Windshield rust repair ++

Well I can't believe I sold The King (2001LC Thunder Cloud NO NAV ), He's be with me near 14 years and has been the most reliable vehicle I've ever had the pleasure of owning & driving. When I bought it, I ask at the Toyota parts counter; "what part or parts are you seeing purchased the most...

forum.ih8mud.com

See my "Master" thread. Look under "windshield" for more info. There's a video around, of installer out of CA, that really does a great job.

 

[Rhetoric]

If you are changing the windshield, it's mandatory to change both pieces of side trim and rivets. There is also a piece of rubber that sits over the rivets. Changing the upper trim is also recommended. There is metal in the top and main side trim that usually gets bent upon removal.

If the rivet holes in the A pillar aren't mangled, just use the Toyota rivets with new trim. You should have zero leaks if the install is done properly. No need to plaster more sealant around things as that could cause more issues.

 

[SMLE]

If you are changing the windshield, it's mandatory to change both pieces of side trim and rivets. There is also a piece of rubber that sits over the rivets. Changing the upper trim is also recommended. There is metal in the top and main side trim that usually gets bent upon removal.

If the rivet holes in the A pillar aren't mangled, just use the Toyota rivets with new trim. You should have zero leaks if the install is done properly. No need to plaster more sealant around things as that could cause more issues.

Thanks, the upper piece being the section about 12" or so in length that runs from the top of the windscreen to just shy of the roof bars?

My local Toyota dealer quoted £450 a side for the side trim on the windscreen itself and £48 a side for the rubber that sits over the top, so I'm still looking around to find an alternative route as mine are definitely bent.

I need the part number if anyone has it (mine is an 04 if that makes a difference)!

Funnily enough I've had a downpour of rain here this afternoon, and it's definitely coming in.

Thanks

 

[SMLE]

Bye Bye to The King: Windshield rust repair ++

Well I can't believe I sold The King (2001LC Thunder Cloud NO NAV ), He's be with me near 14 years and has been the most reliable vehicle I've ever had the pleasure of owning & driving. When I bought it, I ask at the Toyota parts counter; "what part or parts are you seeing purchased the most...

forum.ih8mud.com

See my "Master" thread. Look under "windshield" for more info. There's a video around, of installer out of CA, that really does a great job.

Thanks, I'll have a read!

 

[Rhetoric]

Thanks, the upper piece being the section about 12" or so in length that runs from the top of the windscreen to just shy of the roof bars?

My local Toyota dealer quoted £450 a side for the side trim on the windscreen itself and £48 a side for the rubber that sits over the top, so I'm still looking around to find an alternative route as mine are definitely bent.

I need the part number if anyone has it (mine is an 04 if that makes a difference)!

Funnily enough I've had a downpour of rain here this afternoon, and it's definitely coming in.

Thanks

No I mean the trim that goes horizontal from the LH side of the vehicle to the RH side that sits in the channel just above the glass next to the body.

Try https://partsouq.com/

Enter your VIN then find where the windscreen pieces are for your exact P/Ns. Partsouq probably also has the pieces for cheaper, even with shipping.

 

[DirtehHippeh]

Can confirm what Rehtoric suggests, partsouq is the way to go, your VIN should help you locate the correct parts. I believe the part name is 'Moulding, Windshield, Outside RH/LH', as I recall my part number started 75533/75534 respectively. I have an '04 LC and the parts shipped from UAE. Even with shipping it was less than half the cost of dealer prices, parts were genuine Toyota, and arrived in less than a week. YMMV.

 

[SMLE]

Thank you both, Partsouq was a total revelation! Between that and another site I just ended up spending equivalent of 600USD on bits and postage, but *touch wood* I've been able to get everything I need and more.

Not bad all things considered, and I've got every conceivable seal/moulding around the windscreen and various other bits which my local dealer wanted to charge me handsomely for (all whilst being grumpy).

I'm getting it fully inspected next weekend hopefully so I'll have a bit more of an idea of anything else I need to do to baseline it before going on travels next year.

 

[Malleus]

Next time, use PartSouq to find the part numbers and send Dave Stedman an email. He'll bea their prices.

 

[2001LC]

I always remove and install outside and inside side molding. I never let installers do those for me. If side molding in good condition, I reuse. If removed properly, it is reusable. I also clean painted metal in roof rain gutter, and long side of A pillar (sides rivet holes are in) top to bottom of any adhesive or black ploy, to prep for install. I use 3M double sided body tape, for upper roof rain channels to/on side molding (new OEM side molding comes with)

When I know there's a leak at side molding rivet holes, suspect rust or perforation under molding allowing water in. I remove side molding.. I plug the holes with 3M windshield bytul.

 

[AARONTLC]

I always remove and install outside and inside side molding. I never let installers do those for me. If side molding in good condition, I reuse. If removed properly, it is reusable. I also clean painted metal in roof rain gutter, and long side of A pillar (sides rivet holes are in) top to bottom of any adhesive or black ploy, to prep for install. I use 3M double sided body tape, for upper roof rain channels to/on side molding (new OEM side molding comes with)

When I know there's a leak at side molding rivet holes, suspect rust or perforation under molding allowing water in. I remove side molding.. I plug the holes with 3M windshield bytul.
View attachment 3733292View attachment 3733291

So I am doing this exact thing. I have my windshield removed and I am going to strip all of the old urethane with a poly carbide drill wheel from HF. Several of the rivet holes of course had screws so I purchase some oversized rivets. My question is, do you apply the butyl rubber and press the rivets through the molding and through the butyl rubber? Or is this picture for when you are not using any molding?

 

[2001LC]

So I am doing this exact thing. I have my windshield removed and I am going to strip all of the old urethane with a poly carbide drill wheel from HF. Several of the rivet holes of course had screws so I purchase some oversized rivets. My question is, do you apply the butyl rubber and press the rivets through the molding and through the butyl rubber? Or is this picture for when you are not using any molding?

Actually I was just talking about cleaning adhesives/black poly off paint of body metal.

I do sometimes take down to bare metal. Which is whenever I see rust. I coat with epoxy primer and POR-15 rust.

They bytul is temporary, just to plug holes until molding install. It is removed before installing molding.

When rivet holes enlarged. I add extra layers of POR-15. I trial fit OEM rivets, after each layer drys but still tacky (so I can add more POR-15). I'll add up to 6 layers of POR-15. If I think I'll need more than 6, i use oversized rivets.

 

[SMLE]

I always remove and install outside and inside side molding. I never let installers do those for me. If side molding in good condition, I reuse. If removed properly, it is reusable. I also clean painted metal in roof rain gutter, and long side of A pillar (sides rivet holes are in) top to bottom of any adhesive or black ploy, to prep for install. I use 3M double sided body tape, for upper roof rain channels to/on side molding (new OEM side molding comes with)

When I know there's a leak at side molding rivet holes, suspect rust or perforation under molding allowing water in. I remove side molding.. I plug the holes with 3M windshield bytul.
View attachment 3733292

Thank you for this, really useful!

Mine is missing the rubber weatherstrip that goes over the rivets on both pieces of moulding, and also missing most of the rivets so leaks aren't surprising at this point! I've currently got sheeting over the windscreen area when the car isn't in use to prevent anything further. What oversized rivets are you using? I've got standard ones coming with the parts however until the moulding is removed I won't know the condition of the holes.

Here's a question - where can I find outlet of the sunroof drain holes underneath the car? I believe there is front and back drain holes but not sure where they come out and can't find references to it online. The previous owner said they checked they weren't blocked but I'd like to verify this myself as they weren't honest about a lot of things with this car

Thank you!

 

[2001LC]

Thank you for this, really useful!

Mine is missing the rubber weatherstrip that goes over the rivets on both pieces of moulding, and also missing most of the rivets so leaks aren't surprising at this point! I've currently got sheeting over the windscreen area when the car isn't in use to prevent anything further. What oversized rivets are you using? I've got standard ones coming with the parts however until the moulding is removed I won't know the condition of the holes.

Here's a question - where can I find outlet of the sunroof drain holes underneath the car? I believe there is front and back drain holes but not sure where they come out and can't find references to it online. The previous owner said they checked they weren't blocked but I'd like to verify this myself as they weren't honest about a lot of things with this car

Thank you!

I posted a link for you in above post. I suggest you also click on my master link, in my signature line. Look under windshield. There you'll find more reading, that my help you along the way.

Also, one "mudder" wrote about installing OEM glass, OEM procedure, sealing and parts. Very help suffin mud, if you search.

There is also a video around of a really good install by a shop in CA.

Rivets: I found one of my local Safelite Auto Glass, which is a national chain. Had some oversized rivets they gave me. I also found various size at my local Toyota Dealership parts department, one was 90269-05034. What your after, is: "Plastic Coated Aluminium" rivets. Those materials, will not damage the body paint exposing bare metal. The reason, we do not to use metal screws, is, they cut through the body paint.

I remove molding when screws used, open holes or I suspect breaks in paint. To plugs holes as stated previously. Also to expose any breaks in paint, to open air.

Sunroof drains into cavity between fender well and front doors. I just poor water through the sunroof drains, and watch first to see if flows through drains and second if it hit the ground. In the LC. You can see this "cavity", by opening front door and looking near hinges into fender cavity. BTW: We need to clean out this cavity if debis like mud, leaves, etc. has built up in them.

 

[SMLE]

I posted a link for you in above post. I suggest you also click on my master link, in my signature line. Look under windshield. There you'll find more reading, that my help you along the way.

Also, one "mudder" wrote about installing OEM glass, OEM procedure, sealing and parts. Very help suffin mud, if you search.

There is also a video around of a really good install by a shop in CA.

Rivets: I found one of my local Safelite Auto Glass, which is a national chain. Had some oversized rivets they gave me. I also found various size at my local Toyota Dealership parts department, one was 90269-05034. What your after, is: "Plastic Coated Aluminium" rivets. Those materials, will not damage the body paint exposing bare metal. The reason, we do not to use metal screws, is, they cut through the body paint.

I remove molding when screws used, open holes or I suspect breaks in paint. To plugs holes as stated previously. Also to expose any breaks in paint, to open air.

Sunroof drains into cavity between fender well and front doors. I just poor water through the sunroof drains, and watch first to see if flows through drains and second if it hit the ground. In the LC. You can see this "cavity", by opening front door and looking near hinges into fender cavity. BTW: We need to clean out this cavity if debis like mud, leaves, etc. has built up in them.

View attachment 3734013View attachment 3734014
View attachment 3734015
View attachment 3734016

Apologies - I will read your link properly and stop asking silly questions!
Pictures are a great help, many thanks

 

[AARONTLC]

Actually I was just talking about cleaning adhesives/black poly off paint of body metal.

I do sometimes take down to bare metal. Which is whenever I see rust. I coat with epoxy primer and POR-15 rust.

They bytul is temporary, just to plug holes until molding install. It is removed before installing molding.

When rivet holes enlarged. I add extra layers of POR-15. I trial fit OEM rivets, after each layer drys but still tacky (so I can add more POR-15). I'll add up to 6 layers of POR-15. If I think I'll need more than 6, i use oversized rivets.

So, I had light rust off and on up and down the pillars and light pitting across the top. I went down to bare metal on the top and just in partial spots where necessary on the sides. I cleaned with denatured alcohol and then used Ospho on all the bare metal and seams to kill any rust that I could not see and to reach down in the pits up top. I then used denatured alcohol to clean all the surface areas and applied POR-15 to the bare metal and previously rusted areas.

2 of the 8 holes, I feel are oversized so I have some larger plastic coated Toyota rivets that will be used.

Safelite texted me yesterday and said they can no longer get OEM glass but had a "NO LABEL" bronze windshield that they are comfortable with, blah, blah. to my knowledge the non OEM windshields do not come with the DAMS or the rubber spacers, have you had any issues with them installing them if you provide? I have the FSM which I was going to have on hand so the technician can reference for installation. Do you see any issues with this plan or anything I have done in preparation? Thanks!

 

[SMLE]

As an update for you all, I got hold of all the parts including dams from partsouq, and the windscreen (an aftermarket one) was fitted on Wednesday. Despite the installer confirming they were familiar with the moulding rivets etc, they ended up advising they couldn't install them (after the screen had already been installed!). Rust wise it was all pretty good actually which was a pleasant surprise, and the small bits were taken back to baremetal, treated and primered.

The installer fitted the dams direct to the windscreen which I wasn't especially happy about, however I checked the moulding alignment/fit after and it all looked okay, so the dams seem to be sat okay.

I've now got a different installer coming on Monday to finish the job, who is familiar with these. Out of the holes, only 1 was drilled out larger by a previous installer so it's not so much of an issue to deal with but still frustrating. If I had my time again with this I would have got all the holes welded up and had the mouldings fixed on with adhesive.

I've definitely got some anxiety around the install as I want it watertight, and the previous guy didn't fill me with confidence!

Will report back.

 

[AARONTLC]

As an update for you all, I got hold of all the parts including dams from partsouq, and the windscreen (an aftermarket one) was fitted on Wednesday. Despite the installer confirming they were familiar with the moulding rivets etc, they ended up advising they couldn't install them (after the screen had already been installed!). Rust wise it was all pretty good actually which was a pleasant surprise, and the small bits were taken back to baremetal, treated and primered.

The installer fitted the dams direct to the windscreen which I wasn't especially happy about, however I checked the moulding alignment/fit after and it all looked okay, so the dams seem to be sat okay.

I've now got a different installer coming on Monday to finish the job, who is familiar with these. Out of the holes, only 1 was drilled out larger by a previous installer so it's not so much of an issue to deal with but still frustrating. If I had my time again with this I would have got all the holes welded up and had the mouldings fixed on with adhesive.

I've definitely got some anxiety around the install as I want it watertight, and the previous guy didn't fill me with confidence!

Will report back.

Fitting the dams to the windshield is per the FSM. Did he/she not place them correctly?

 

[SMLE]

Fitting the dams to the windshield is per the FSM. Did he/she not place them correctly?

Ah that's great to know, I must have confused the correct way after watching the example youtube video of that chap out in CA replacing a screen that people link to on here.

Dams all looked to have been fitted correctly, my main gripe was the moulding not being attempted but hopefully will be resolved by this other fitter on Monday!

 

[2001LC]

So, I had light rust off and on up and down the pillars and light pitting across the top. I went down to bare metal on the top and just in partial spots where necessary on the sides. I cleaned with denatured alcohol and then used Ospho on all the bare metal and seams to kill any rust that I could not see and to reach down in the pits up top. I then used denatured alcohol to clean all the surface areas and applied POR-15 to the bare metal and previously rusted areas.

For future reference:
Ospho converts rust and leaves a zink coat. Ospho is designed to work with oil based paints. Do not rinse off, let dry and paint. Before painting, bush and white areas (which is result of moisture) and or wip with lacquer thinner.

POR Metal Prep, eats rusta and leaves a zink coat. POR-15 rust paint, is designed to work with POR degreaser & metal POR-15 Metal prep. Rinse with water. POR support has said "As long as I use water based cleaners, it's okay to use non POR".

2 of the 8 holes, I feel are oversized so I have some larger plastic coated Toyota rivets that will be used.

Or coat holes w/POR-15 rust, to build up (reduce ID) and use STD size.

Safelite texted me yesterday and said they can no longer get OEM glass but had a "NO LABEL" bronze windshield that they are comfortable with, blah, blah. to my knowledge the non OEM windshields do not come with the DAMS or the rubber spacers, have you had any issues with them installing them if you provide? I have the FSM which I was going to have on hand so the technician can reference for installation. Do you see any issues with this plan or anything I have done in preparation? Thanks!

Use of non OEM, which is typical install, if fine. But a tick is to place tape under hole at top center on body, that rubber alignment block of OEM, sit in. Then coat top side with black ploy. This insures, hole is plugged!