Window Seal Replacements (1 Viewer)

[StaticTorque]

62742-60040

Well... How the heck did I mess that up? Thank you for the correction.

Is there any other seals anyone can think of before I put my order in?

 

[White Stripe]

Check the inside bottom of your quarter panels, rust will develop their. Moisture gets in from bad quarter window gaskets and bad tail lamp bucket seals.

 

[StaticTorque]

bad tail lamp bucket seals.

What are those?

 

[White Stripe]

What are those?

If you remove your tail lamps you'll see the buckets. They are sealed around the body by butyl rope which can be degraded if it's original.

 

[roflbox]

If you remove your tail lamps you'll see the buckets. They are sealed around the body by butyl rope which can be degraded if it's original.

would that explain why I found the factory tool bag damp one day?

 

[HardyDanger]

would that explain why I found the factory tool bag damp one day?

Partially.
I have spent the past year chasing that.
What I have found, and think I’ve solved finally….

1) sunroof leak, or drain tube clog. I had this issue first. My driveway is at an angle, when I had the headliner out, I saw some water would trail all the way to the rear quarter panel. Fixed that.

2) Then I found the seals around clips that hold plastic vent louvers on leaked behind the slider window. Fixed that. Thought I was done. I posted a thread about that process somewhere.

3) Nope. Turns out. The trim molding under that slider window has little body clips, and gaskets that failed. One of those holes is right above the jack, and the jack was sitting in a puddle. (Very carefully removed that trim piece as those clip are tiny and v.hard to find, I think you’d have to buy the whole part)

Currently, I have that trim off, and the holes sealed with tape. As a test.

Been dry back there for 2 weeks.

4) now need to check the tail light gaskets…..

Sorry for thread tangent.

 

[White Stripe]

would that explain why I found the factory tool bag damp one day?

I doubt it. The tool bag sits up higher. Another good thing to do is treat the bottom of the inner quarter with good rust proof products in case moisture does get in their. Water can also enter through fender flare holes or by crossing a deep river. If water does get into the bottom of the quarter, it has no way to get out unless you remove it by soaking it up.

 

[StaticTorque]

would that explain why I found the factory tool bag damp one day?

I wouldn’t say so either. In my opinion that would be from the molding piece of trim under the 3rd row window. I had a leak coming from each clip. Instead of buying new ones, I used rubber electrical tape as a new seal. Instead of buying new ones.

Partially.
I have spent the past year chasing that.
What I have found, and think I’ve solved finally….

1) sunroof leak, or drain tube clog. I had this issue first. My driveway is at an angle, when I had the headliner out, I saw some water would trail all the way to the rear quarter panel. Fixed that.

2) Then I found the seals around clips that hold plastic vent louvers on leaked behind the slider window. Fixed that. Thought I was done. I posted a thread about that process somewhere.

3) Nope. Turns out. The trim molding under that slider window has little body clips, and gaskets that failed. One of those holes is right above the jack, and the jack was sitting in a puddle. (Very carefully removed that trim piece as those clip are tiny and v.hard to find, I think you’d have to buy the whole part)

Currently, I have that trim off, and the holes sealed with tape. As a test.

Been dry back there for 2 weeks.

4) now need to check the tail light gaskets…..

Sorry for thread tangent.

Sounds like we had very similar issues. Expect my sunroof and everything was okay.

 

[Francis K]

Total garbage jackass fix but in my old 450 I couldn’t find the source of that leak to save my life and one day I got so frustrated I sprayed all my trim with plasti dip and whatever I could get to on the inside where the jack is.

Leak was gone….

 

[StaticTorque]

Total garbage jackass fix but in my old 450 I couldn’t find the source of that leak to save my life and one day I got so frustrated I sprayed all my trim with plasti dip and whatever I could get to on the inside where the jack is.

Leak was gone….

I guess that’s one way to do it

 

[Techie]

As my rig is closing in on 300k miles on the body and living in the PNW, Im wanting to replace all the weather stripping, window runs and all that in the rig. Have everything nice a sealed back up, and maybe my windows will roll up and down better. Also don't want any rust, rust is bad.

When I was doing my research and taking notes on all the part numbers for weather stripping and window runs, I came across the small window on the back doors. As this window does not move or anything. How would the weather stripping be replaced on that window? Also, is there anything I am missing? I will be posting my research down below.


Window Seal Part #’s


LH Front:
Weatherstrip: 67862-60073
Window run: 68151-60010
Door glass channel: 69971-60020
Door molding: 75720-60021

RH Front:
Weatherstrip: 67861-60073
Window run: 68141-60010
Door glass channel: 69971-60020
Door molding: 75720-60021

LH Rear:
Weatherstrip: 67872-60043
Window run: 68152-60011
Door glass channel: 69971-90D00
Small window run: 68189-60010
Door molding: 75740-60020

RH Rear:
Weatherstrip: 67871-60043
Window run: 68142-60011
Door glass channel: 69971-90D00
Small window run: 68188-60010
Door molding: 75730-60020

LH 3rd row:
Window run: 62756-60010
Weatherstrip: 62742-60040
Molding: 75670-60020

RH 3rd row:
Window run: 62755-60010
Weatherstrip: 62741-60040
Molding: 75660-60020

Thanks for putting these all together in one place!!

 

[trobfox]

As my rig is closing in on 300k miles on the body and living in the PNW, Im wanting to replace all the weather stripping, window runs and all that in the rig. Have everything nice a sealed back up, and maybe my windows will roll up and down better. Also don't want any rust, rust is bad.

When I was doing my research and taking notes on all the part numbers for weather stripping and window runs, I came across the small window on the back doors. As this window does not move or anything. How would the weather stripping be replaced on that window? Also, is there anything I am missing? I will be posting my research down below.


Window Seal Part #’s


LH Front:
Weatherstrip: 67862-60073
Window run: 68151-60010
Door glass channel: 69971-60020
Door molding: 75720-60021

RH Front:
Weatherstrip: 67861-60073
Window run: 68141-60010
Door glass channel: 69971-60020
Door molding: 75710-60021

LH Rear:
Weatherstrip: 67872-60043
Window run: 68152-60011
Door glass channel: 69971-90D00
Small window run: 68189-60010
Door molding: 75740-60020

RH Rear:
Weatherstrip: 67871-60043
Window run: 68142-60011
Door glass channel: 69971-90D00
Small window run: 68188-60010
Door molding: 75730-60020

LH 3rd row:
Window run: 62756-60010
Weatherstrip: 62742-60040
Molding: 75670-60020

RH 3rd row:
Window run: 62755-60010
Weatherstrip: 62741-60040
Molding: 75660-60020

Sorry I’m late to the party. I just ordered new front window seal runs for my 97. Is it possible to do the job without removing the door panels(cards)?

 

[gummycarbs]

Sorry I’m late to the party. I just ordered new front window seal runs for my 97. Is it possible to do the job without removing the door panels(cards)?

If you mean the door glass run, then maybe for the fronts. I just did them. The passenger side went in after a LOT of jerking the rear section and down, using Ru-Glyde as a lubricant. The driver's side would not go in no matter what until I pulled the door card and pulled the glass out.

 

[trobfox]

If you mean the door glass run, then maybe for the fronts. I just did them. The passenger side went in after a LOT of jerking the rear section and down, using Ru-Glyde as a lubricant. The driver's side would not go in no matter what until I pulled the door card and pulled the glass out.

Thanks for the reply. So you were able to get the pass side down without removing the card? That’s encouraging.

 

[gummycarbs]

Thanks for the reply. So you were able to get the pass side down without removing the card? That’s encouraging.

IMO, it's not worth the wasted time and sore fingers. Pulling the door card only takes a few minutes, and pulling the front window out only takes a few more.

 

[JT 80 Series]

damn, $1200+ to replace all these seals

 

[StaticTorque]

damn, $1200+ to replace all these seals

Yeah, wasn’t cheap. But more than worth it. It’ll last me another 300k miles.

 

[JT 80 Series]

Yeah, wasn’t cheap. But more than worth it. It’ll last me another 300k miles.

Yeah I'm about to order them all. No leaking yet thankfully. You did it by yourself? How long did they take?

 

[StaticTorque]

Yeah I'm about to order them all. No leaking yet thankfully. You did it by yourself? How long did they take?

Yeah I’ve done it all by myself. I haven’t done the cargo windows yet though. Kind of scared to tackle those but I’ll have to either way. Small little window for the back doors is actually pretty easy to get out. I don’t remember exactly but between 2-4 weeks.

 

[JT 80 Series]

Yeah I’ve done it all by myself. I haven’t done the cargo windows yet though. Kind of scared to tackle those but I’ll have to either way. Small little window for the back doors is actually pretty easy to get out.

Do you think an average person could knock it all out in a day (cargo ones aside). I have also got to do the mudflap ones as well