Window Rocket - who’s tried it? (22 Viewers)

[FIDO96]

Ok, just finished my install…31 mins start to finish, with two battery post disconnects and kick plate removals (don’t forget to connect the ground wire after plugging in the plug!)….super easy install and night and day results! Let me figure out how to upload to YT for B&A vids.

10000% recommend…not a waste of money if you ever go anywhere and need to roll down your windows…Whataburger here we come.

 

[FIDO96]

Before and after…sorry for the horizontal vs portrait grip…hands were dripping sweat in the Dallas garage.

 

[shocktower]

So I'm going to chime in for the ones who doubted this,I have been running the prototype for 2 years and not one problem,with the Window Rocket and my Land Cruiser is my only vehicle that I drive daily its such an improvement,I still have 2 windows with OEM runners, I was the gueneapig but I have faith in @PIP

 

[Spencwa]

Thanks to a member sending me a link to this thread!

The Window Rocket is my product.

I'll start by answering a few questions-

Austin didn't do anything sneaky in his video. He's a stand up dude and calls it like it is. I told him about the product and asked him if he'd do a no BS tell it like it is video on what he thought of it if I sent him one. I was bummed it didn't clear his clutch pedal so he ended up installing it in his dad's 80.

The video turned into a bit of a how to install it thing instead of a review. I got the impression there wasnt much video potential in just a review. Just watching windows work faster isn't very exciting material i guess. He made the video, I had no say is what he said and I think he did a fine job. All he got was a Window Rocket for his dad.

The module is not an off the shelf voltage booster. We tested a bunch of them. The module is a high current switch mode power supply with reverse polarity protection and overcurrent protection that defaults to battery voltage. It is made specifically for us, engineered and built by a company I have vetted to make high quality products. It costs me a hell of a lot more than $25 in 250 piece orders.

I bought my first 80 in 2011. The windows barely worked. I replaced all the window runs and motors, adjusted the windows properly and had decent windows. Within a few years the windows were slowing down in the winter. I lubed them and limped them along until I sold that 80.

When the windows slowed after just a few years I was annoyed. It got me thinking.

I have a background in CNC machining and CNC machine repair. I've done some advanced repairs on machine tool way systems and have a lot of training with box way systems. There's a phenomenon known as stick-slip. It's something we have to tune the drives and servos for and advanced machines with high speed box ways use air/oil injection ways to alleviate high friction at slow speeds.

This is where I got the idea that increasing the window velocity could increase the reliability of the entire window system. There is a big correlation between glass velocity and seal friction. There's a velocity where window motor current drops dramatically. The 80 series windows operate below this velocity threshold.

Over the course of years I dissected the 80 power window system. Measured currents, voltages and temperatures under load. I found that while going up it was common to see less than 10 volts at the window motors. I saw 8 volts even with the alternator charging.

Early on I was surprised to find the power window relay gets very hot in normal operation, over 250 degrees on the outside. The contacts are hotter than that inside. Yet the rest of the window wiring is pretty robust.

Exactly what the window rocket does is eliminate the relay as the current choke point and raise the voltage upstream to get 14 volts to the motors. This keeps the glass velocity above the high-current threshold. It does this well, it does work and it won't damage anything in your window system.

If you want to DIY something like this you'd think just cut the top off a Denso relay and solder or crimp some wires in there. Problem you'll encounter is the crossection of the terminals inside the relay you need to attach 10awg wires to are too small for that. There's no connector that plugs in where the Denso relay does.

We designed a new connector body around high current terminals to plug in where the Denso relay did. A lot goes into this connector. We machine them from solid rod using a fixture and 14 different tiny tools one of our HMC's. I'm pretty proud of that connector. Nobody who plugs it in is going to know how much work goes into making that little part. But it makes the whole shebang not just possible, but very easy to install.

The rest is just common sense design so it goes in easy, connections stay tight for the life of the vehicle, it looks good and is anodized so it won't corrode. The Window Rocket will install without the standoffs fine, but the standoffs come with it so you can install it with one hand. It mounts in a place that isn't fun to get to.

The final product was installed in a couple cruisers in October 2023 and has been torture tested since. It has worked great in all the daily driven test cruisers so in May I put the product into production and here we are today.

I look forward to real reviews from those who've used one already. And I'm always open to criticism. I'm not new. I have thick skin. Tell it like it is, but don't think this is some half-baked overhyped BS. A lot of work has gone into this product to get it where I feel it's right.

And yes, I know the price is on the higher side. I'm looking into what can be done to lower the cost. A big factor is the volume. If I can buy in thousand quantities and streamline some of the labor intensive assembly I can work the price down without sacrificing quality. Sales have been more than anticipated. I'm seeing what I can do. And I very much appreciate all those who've stepped up to purchase already. Your support is huge!

Thanks!

Dustin@PIP

Did we ever get a RHD version?

 

[PIP]

Did we ever get a RHD version?

RHD will be available some time in August.

 

[Fosters]

Mine arrives today…I’m expecting similar improvements even with new rubber and motors

 

[reklund5]

Just installed mine. What a sweet solution to a simple problem. 10 minute install, and the windows zip up and down as fast as my 2025 Tundra. Got me thinking about my old MkIII Supra now....gotta see if it uses the same relay. @PIP Might be hitting you up for that one....

 

[Spencwa]

RHD will be available some time in August.

Dang, flying home to Uganda in a few weeks... Guess I'll have to wait until me next trip back to the states! Thank You!

 

[ohsix]

I installed mine today. My 30 year old Land Cruiser windows now operate like they were designed in 2025.

@PIP, do you have any interest in making something similar for the windshield wipers? Can I go plugging the window rocket relay into the other 3 relay spots near the window relay to see if one controls the wipers?

 

[gonzopancho]

If you think 1997 power windows suck you should own a 1989 fj62 lol I also have a 94 fzj80 the windows suck oh and a 95 they kinda suck

I own a 1989 FJ62. The windows in the 80 series suck a lot more.

 

[gonzopancho]

Thanks to a member sending me a link to this thread!

The Window Rocket is my product.

I'll start by answering a few questions-

Austin didn't do anything sneaky in his video. He's a stand up dude and calls it like it is. I told him about the product and asked him if he'd do a no BS tell it like it is video on what he thought of it if I sent him one. I was bummed it didn't clear his clutch pedal so he ended up installing it in his dad's 80.

The video turned into a bit of a how to install it thing instead of a review. I got the impression there wasnt much video potential in just a review. Just watching windows work faster isn't very exciting material i guess. He made the video, I had no say is what he said and I think he did a fine job. All he got was a Window Rocket for his dad.

The module is not an off the shelf voltage booster. We tested a bunch of them. The module is a high current switch mode power supply with reverse polarity protection and overcurrent protection that defaults to battery voltage. It is made specifically for us, engineered and built by a company I have vetted to make high quality products. It costs me a hell of a lot more than $25 in 250 piece orders.

I bought my first 80 in 2011. The windows barely worked. I replaced all the window runs and motors, adjusted the windows properly and had decent windows. Within a few years the windows were slowing down in the winter. I lubed them and limped them along until I sold that 80.

When the windows slowed after just a few years I was annoyed. It got me thinking.

I have a background in CNC machining and CNC machine repair. I've done some advanced repairs on machine tool way systems and have a lot of training with box way systems. There's a phenomenon known as stick-slip. It's something we have to tune the drives and servos for and advanced machines with high speed box ways use air/oil injection ways to alleviate high friction at slow speeds.

This is where I got the idea that increasing the window velocity could increase the reliability of the entire window system. There is a big correlation between glass velocity and seal friction. There's a velocity where window motor current drops dramatically.

Nearly every motor (especially low voltage motors) draws more current at low rpm. In fact, when supplied with enough power, any electrical motor will develop infinite torque at stall (0 rpm) until something breaks or burns.

The 80 series windows operate below this velocity threshold.

12VDC (especially) motors draw a lot of current at low rpm. Conversely the no load (no torque) speed is the highest rpm the motor will develop at a given voltage.

There is direct (near linear) correlation between a DC motor's torque and speed. As the load increases, the speed decreases proportionally until the motor stalls.

Likely that all you’ve done here is increased the voltage supplied to the motors with an OTS buck booster. Interestingly, yours has no label.

Over the course of years I dissected the 80 power window system. Measured currents, voltages and temperatures under load. I found that while going up it was common to see less than 10 volts at the window motors. I saw 8 volts even with the alternator charging.

Early on I was surprised to find the power window relay gets very hot in normal operation, over 250 degrees on the outside. The contacts are hotter than that inside. Yet the rest of the window wiring is pretty robust.

Exactly what the window rocket does is eliminate the relay as the current choke point and raise the voltage upstream to get 14 volts to the motors. This keeps the glass velocity above the high-current threshold. It does this well, it does work and it won't damage anything in your window system.

If you want to DIY something like this you'd think just cut the top off a Denso relay and solder or crimp some wires in there.

Why risk a DENSO relay (common “fix” for people looking to increase the voltage to the alternator field) when one could just wire in a 13.8VDC buck booster with some regulation? They’re available off the shelf.

Problem you'll encounter is the crossection of the terminals inside the relay you need to attach 10awg wires to are too small for that. There's no connector that plugs in where the Denso relay does.

Hmm. Wonder how everyone who wires a 30/40A relay for a fuel pump does it.

We designed a new connector body around high current terminals to plug in where the Denso relay did. A lot goes into this connector. We machine them from solid rod using a fixture and 14 different tiny tools one of our HMC's. I'm pretty proud of that connector. Nobody who plugs it in is going to know how much work goes into making that little part. But it makes the whole shebang not just possible, but very easy to install.

Did you use Google to search for “10awg relay pins” before you developed this?

The rest is just common sense design so it goes in easy, connections stay tight for the life of the vehicle, it looks good and is anodized so it won't corrode.

It’s aluminum and aluminum forms a natural oxide layer pretty quickly.

The Window Rocket will install without the standoffs fine, but the standoffs come with it so you can install it with one hand. It mounts in a place that isn't fun to get to.

The final product was installed in a couple cruisers in October 2023 and has been torture tested since. It has worked great in all the daily driven test cruisers so in May I put the product into production and here we are today.

I look forward to real reviews from those who've used one already. And I'm always open to criticism. I'm not new. I have thick skin. Tell it like it is, but don't think this is some half-baked overhyped BS. A lot of work has gone into this product to get it where I feel it's right.

And yes, I know the price is on the higher side. I'm looking into what can be done to lower the cost. A big factor is the volume. If I can buy in thousand quantities and streamline some of the labor intensive assembly I can work the price down without sacrificing quality. Sales have been more than anticipated. I'm seeing what I can do. And I very much appreciate all those who've stepped up to purchase already. Your support is huge!

Thanks!

Dustin@PIP

 

[efjayatee]

@gonzoso So what is the negative effect?

I'm glad it's working out for folks that tried it. Just wished it was less $.

 

[mehbohdi]

Installed mine yesterday works as advertised, time will tell when winter shows up. It does work much better and my stuff was in pretty good condition to begin with.

 

[littlegreenmonster]

seems too good to be true, but i just pulled the trigger. i have replaced all the regulators/motors and the rails and lubricated them and they still are awful. my front passenger window gets stuck about halfway up on a cold rainy/humid day. the windows have to be the most frustrating thing about owning an 80.

 

[effjay80]

I would assume if voltage / current exceeds motor specs they'll (the motors) fail early. That said the duty cycle here probably low enough to not matter. I not learned enough to opine and if my windows bothered me enough I'd try it. Mine go down at warp speed and back up a bit slower.

Just Google DC motors excess voltage/current or something to that effect.

 

[PIP]

Nearly every motor (especially low voltage motors) draws more current at low rpm. In fact, when supplied with enough power, any electrical motor will develop infinite torque at stall (0 rpm) until something breaks or burns.



12VDC (especially) motors draw a lot of current at low rpm. Conversely the no load (no torque) speed is the highest rpm the motor will develop at a given voltage.

There is direct (near linear) correlation between a DC motor's torque and speed. As the load increases, the speed decreases proportionally until the motor stalls.

Likely that all you’ve done here is increased the voltage supplied to the motors with an OTS buck booster. Interestingly, yours has no label.



Why risk a DENSO relay (common “fix” for people looking to increase the voltage to the alternator field) when one could just wire in a 13.8VDC buck booster with some regulation? They’re available off the shelf.



Hmm. Wonder how everyone who wires a 30/40A relay for a fuel pump does it.



Did you use Google to search for “10awg relay pins” before you developed this?


It’s aluminum and aluminum forms a natural oxide layer pretty quickly.

Thanks for setting me straight on this buddy!

 

[gonzopancho]

seems too good to be true, but i just pulled the trigger. i have replaced all the regulators/motors and the rails and lubricated them and they still are awful. my front passenger window gets stuck about halfway up on a cold rainy/humid day.

I had that occurring on 92, (in 2014/15) except DS rear. Eventually it pulled the window off the channel (or rather the channel off the window), then the window dropped.

Pretty simple to put back together, and in the process I cleaned all the window runs with soapy water and 2 rinses with clear, reinstalled the window on the regulator, had it pull out again, (the rubber there was quite old), so I glued it in with some 3M Windshield adhesive. Let that set, then reinstalled the regulator, window and runs. Then lubricated the runs with Slyglide. This helps a lot.

Worked so well I did the cleaned and lubed the runs on three windows out of spite. Never thought about the windows in that truck again until now.

I have a diesel-swapped (1HD-FTE) / 5-speed (H152F) LX450 and the kid has a @Cruisers and Co turboed 40th Anniversary. So I still have a couple 80-series to molest when I’m bored. (Way more into the earlier trucks.)

the windows have to be the most frustrating thing about owning an 80.

Have you heard about the PHH, my friend?

Thanks for setting me straight on this buddy!

I bought one of your kits, just to see for myself what it was about. Haven’t installed it, yet. I gotta say that it looks like a off the shelf regulated 13.8VDC 30A power supply (missing the label that is normally on the potting), a simple but nice bracket and a 40A/30A relay all pre-wired with a machined (tooling marks, no mold witness marks or flash) version of the Toyota connector.

If the $295 list price is what’s slowing sales, why not offer a kit of the bracket, screws, terminals and the machined connector, and reference the power supply to the (by all appearances identical) one found on Amazon for $60 or off Alibaba for half that?

Go ahead and offer the fully assembled version for $295, some people will buy that just to reduce the time, complexity and risk of sourcing it themselves.

 

[PIP]

I had that occurring on 92, (in 2014/15) except DS rear. Eventually it pulled the window off the channel (or rather the channel off the window), then the window dropped.

Pretty simple to put back together, and in the process I cleaned all the window runs with soapy water and 2 rinses with clear, reinstalled the window on the regulator, had it pull out again, (the rubber there was quite old), so I glued it in with some 3M Windshield adhesive. Let that set, then reinstalled the regulator, window and runs. Then lubricated the runs with Slyglide. This helps a lot.

Worked so well I did the cleaned and lubed the runs on three windows out of spite. Never thought about the windows in that truck again until now.

I have a diesel-swapped (1HD-FTE) / 5-speed (H152F) LX450 and the kid has a @Cruisers and Co turboed 40th Anniversary. So I still have a couple 80-series to molest when I’m bored. (Way more into the earlier trucks.)



Have you heard about the PHH, my friend?



I bought one of your kits, just to see for myself what it was about. Haven’t installed it, yet. I gotta say that it looks like a off the shelf regulated 13.8VDC 30A power supply (missing the label that is normally on the potting), a simple but nice bracket and a 40A/30A relay all pre-wired with a machined (tooling marks, no mold witness marks or flash) version of the Toyota connector.

If the $295 list price is what’s slowing sales, why not offer a kit of the bracket, screws, terminals and the machined connector, and reference the power supply to the (by all appearances identical) one found on Amazon for $60 or off Alibaba for half that)?

Go ahead and offer the fully assembled version for $295, some people will buy that just to reduce the time, complexity and risk of sourcing it themselves.

Thanks for buying one! I appreciate it! The module is not an off the shelf part. There are many suppliers that make things that look the same. Their quality varies drastically. And it's not always the fault of the supplier- You can get whatever quality level you want to pay for.

I'm glad you you feel the product is simple. That's precisely the goal. I think it's a bit deceptive how much labor goes into making and assembling these buggers.

Slowing sales?

 

[gonzopancho]

Thanks for buying one! I appreciate it! The module is not an off the shelf part.

You said this before. I assume you know it’s testable.

There are many suppliers that make things that look the same. Their quality varies drastically. And it's not always the fault of the supplier- You can get whatever quality level you want to pay for.

I'm glad you you feel the product is simple. That's precisely the goal. I think it's a bit deceptive how much labor goes into making and assembling these buggers.

Not for me.

Slowing sales?

Just the objection that $295 is “too much”.

 

[petegangies]

If you don't want to buy one, or don't think something is "worth it", or you think you can build one yourself for cheaper, then go ahead and do it, and allow the person selling these to go about their business—it's pretty simple.