- Location
- United States
Hello all! First of all I want to thank everyone on this forum but being an absolute life saver throughout my restoration. I've decided to take the project in another direction, so here we are.
The rig was a one owner bone stock 1987 60 and driven by an older couple, pretty much the dream 60 find. Opening the engine up further confirmed it had an easy life.
I've spent the last few years getting together and overhauling everything needed for a sweet 2FE conversion. Biggest reason I wanted this conversion was keeping the reliability of the 2F, originality of the factory block, and importantly a SMOG legal rig in CA. But I don't want to do a motor twice, so I've decided to pause, spend the money and try and go for the R2.8 which is the ultimate goal. I started by purchasing a rare opportunity "2FE Kit" from Red Line Land Cruisers in CO to get all the parts at once. The parts included are enough to fill up the back of a 60: ECU and entire wire harness for a FJ62, making it very easy to add/replace wiring, intake manifold with air cleaner assembly with MAF sensor, 3FE valve cover, 6 new OEM fuel injectors (hard to find), surfaced and ceramic coated exhaust manifolds (silver), new OEM motor mounts, new Aisin oil pump, complete OEM gasket kit for 3FE and 2F as you'll need a combination of both, a case of Joe Gibbs Driven break in oil, new exhaust and intake manifold studs, HEI dizzy with wires. All of the original 2F accessories are optional at no cost, alternator, AC pump, power steering pump, fan, old carb( which is actually new), exhaust manifold, misc brackets. I also can include a nice FJ62 instrument cluster and dash pad if you want to update the inside to match what's under the hood, I planned on doing it to retain functionality of the check engine light etc. Having the entire wire harness will make this very easy. Clutch was recently replaced so I was going to run it.
Engine wise I've got is a freshly overhauled long block, .020" over, with a balanced rotation assembly-done with flywheel and clutch basket, rods and pistons balanced together. Block, tappets, and flywheel done by Quality Auto Machine in San Diego, and balanced by San Diego Engine Blancing in Santee, CA. Fresh 3FE head overhauled by a shop in Oregon that really knew Yota heads, done with toyota valves/seals and not GM, milled .040", flat top pistons to not push compression beyond ignition and octane limitations. This will be a Premium octane rating rig, but the added power and fuel injection efficiency should be great? 3FE valve train is installed, still have the 2F rocker arm assemblies and original 2F head. Crank polished, and rods trued, and are both still nominal as their journals were in great shape. Head was installed with an OEM head gasket with a coat of copper gasket spray, ARP fastener lube on the head bolts.
New, stock 2F cam as the old one was too far gone on the lobe tips, resurfaced tappets, new OEM cam gear and crank gear.
The engine was assembled with Joe Gibbs assembly grease, therefore the long block can sit and still be protected at first fire up or any other rotation.
I completely understand the insane risk of buying and trusting an engine project like this. I didn't take any shortcuts and spent a lot of money doing it right. Worst case it's still a long block, so yanking the guts out to have a look for yourself really wouldn't be that difficult.
I am currently stationed away from the project but shouldn't be a big deal. Pictures are exactly what you would expect, attached are the few I had from initial assembly. Upon inquiry I can have some sent if there's specific things you want to see. Everything is boxed up at the moment. The block in attached to an engine stand that can go with it no cost if need be. As mentioned I have a lot of original 60 parts I won't be using, all the 2F stuff, and the 4 speed manual etc.
I'm going to start at $6k, I know that's a lot but it's fairly negotiable, you're getting a lot for the money! All the legwork has been done more less. Call me anytime I'd love to talk through it all.
No shipping unless it's an absolute no-go. Buyer will have to pay.
Thanks for looking and thanks again to all those out there contributing to keeping these rigs going.
The rig was a one owner bone stock 1987 60 and driven by an older couple, pretty much the dream 60 find. Opening the engine up further confirmed it had an easy life.
I've spent the last few years getting together and overhauling everything needed for a sweet 2FE conversion. Biggest reason I wanted this conversion was keeping the reliability of the 2F, originality of the factory block, and importantly a SMOG legal rig in CA. But I don't want to do a motor twice, so I've decided to pause, spend the money and try and go for the R2.8 which is the ultimate goal. I started by purchasing a rare opportunity "2FE Kit" from Red Line Land Cruisers in CO to get all the parts at once. The parts included are enough to fill up the back of a 60: ECU and entire wire harness for a FJ62, making it very easy to add/replace wiring, intake manifold with air cleaner assembly with MAF sensor, 3FE valve cover, 6 new OEM fuel injectors (hard to find), surfaced and ceramic coated exhaust manifolds (silver), new OEM motor mounts, new Aisin oil pump, complete OEM gasket kit for 3FE and 2F as you'll need a combination of both, a case of Joe Gibbs Driven break in oil, new exhaust and intake manifold studs, HEI dizzy with wires. All of the original 2F accessories are optional at no cost, alternator, AC pump, power steering pump, fan, old carb( which is actually new), exhaust manifold, misc brackets. I also can include a nice FJ62 instrument cluster and dash pad if you want to update the inside to match what's under the hood, I planned on doing it to retain functionality of the check engine light etc. Having the entire wire harness will make this very easy. Clutch was recently replaced so I was going to run it.
Engine wise I've got is a freshly overhauled long block, .020" over, with a balanced rotation assembly-done with flywheel and clutch basket, rods and pistons balanced together. Block, tappets, and flywheel done by Quality Auto Machine in San Diego, and balanced by San Diego Engine Blancing in Santee, CA. Fresh 3FE head overhauled by a shop in Oregon that really knew Yota heads, done with toyota valves/seals and not GM, milled .040", flat top pistons to not push compression beyond ignition and octane limitations. This will be a Premium octane rating rig, but the added power and fuel injection efficiency should be great? 3FE valve train is installed, still have the 2F rocker arm assemblies and original 2F head. Crank polished, and rods trued, and are both still nominal as their journals were in great shape. Head was installed with an OEM head gasket with a coat of copper gasket spray, ARP fastener lube on the head bolts.
New, stock 2F cam as the old one was too far gone on the lobe tips, resurfaced tappets, new OEM cam gear and crank gear.
The engine was assembled with Joe Gibbs assembly grease, therefore the long block can sit and still be protected at first fire up or any other rotation.
I completely understand the insane risk of buying and trusting an engine project like this. I didn't take any shortcuts and spent a lot of money doing it right. Worst case it's still a long block, so yanking the guts out to have a look for yourself really wouldn't be that difficult.
I am currently stationed away from the project but shouldn't be a big deal. Pictures are exactly what you would expect, attached are the few I had from initial assembly. Upon inquiry I can have some sent if there's specific things you want to see. Everything is boxed up at the moment. The block in attached to an engine stand that can go with it no cost if need be. As mentioned I have a lot of original 60 parts I won't be using, all the 2F stuff, and the 4 speed manual etc.
I'm going to start at $6k, I know that's a lot but it's fairly negotiable, you're getting a lot for the money! All the legwork has been done more less. Call me anytime I'd love to talk through it all.
No shipping unless it's an absolute no-go. Buyer will have to pay.
Thanks for looking and thanks again to all those out there contributing to keeping these rigs going.
