I have bad knuckle bearings and bad TRE's. If I do the knuckles first but wait on the TRE's, will I do damage to the new knuckle bearing until i replace the TRE's. We are leaving on a trip, i have the parts and time to do the knuckles, but may not get the new TRE"s before we leave.
will i do more damage...?
- Thread starter worshhim
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The one thing you want to avoid is installing new TREs and then using a pickle fork to remove them for some other reason or repair. This usually tears the boots and your new TREs will not live too long after that.
ntsqd
technerd
I think that I'd do the TRE's now and leave the knuckle bearings until you return, but that's just me.
Heres a hint for saving TREs...DO NOT use a pickle fork!!! Loosen the nut until the threads are even with the end of the threads On the rod end. Get a big long bar and wedge in between the tie rod itself (maybe a foot back from the TRE.) and the axle or something. Either stand on the bar or have an assistant put a couple hundred pounds of force on the bar. Take a mallet or etc, smack the steering arm end on the side right next to the TRE. Should pop the TRE right out, may take a couple of smacks. Leaving the nut on keeps the rod from violently leaving its nest and splattering parts and people all over the garage. DONT hit the threads or the nut, just the side of the steering arm. keeps the TREs in good shape
- Thread starter
- #7
If i do the TRE's and leave the knuckle bearings, will the new TRE's be damaged if it is driven a week or so before the knuckle job? At this point I get a pretty serious wobble, but only occasionally. I thought this was due to bad knuckle bearings, how do verify that my knuckles are indeed toast?
There are a few different ways. You can jack up the front end and wiggle up and down (holding the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock) to check for worn hubs/knuckles. Then wiggle the tire side to side (holding it at 3 and 9 o'clock) to assess play in the tie rod ends.
Also if you start up the truck and have some one turn the steering wheel left and right quickly, you can spot play in all of the moving parts.
Also if you start up the truck and have some one turn the steering wheel left and right quickly, you can spot play in all of the moving parts.
A TRE removal tool is a lifetime thing: basically a C-bracket that fits around the end of the steering arm & has a hole in the member opposite with a bolt through it. You loosen the nut, slip the C around the TRE shaft (pushing back the boot) & tighten the nut: makes the Morse taper pop loose.
Bought one eons ago for my old Porsche & have made it work on everything else since. Pickle forks are great if you're changing the TRE & like to beat on stuff.
Bought one eons ago for my old Porsche & have made it work on everything else since. Pickle forks are great if you're changing the TRE & like to beat on stuff.
ntsqd
technerd
To answer the question of will only doing part of the job hurt the new parts, that answer is no with a possible qualifier.
Depending on the status of remaining worn parts you may be working to the new parts a little harder than normal for the short period where the job is only part-way done. Worst case this *might* shorten their lifespan by some amount. My best estimate is that if you are exceptionally anal-retentive about keeping track of exactly how long each part lasts and have acquired sufficient data from previous life cycles of those same parts for a comparison, then you might see a difference.
Otherwise, I doubt that you will.
Depending on the status of remaining worn parts you may be working to the new parts a little harder than normal for the short period where the job is only part-way done. Worst case this *might* shorten their lifespan by some amount. My best estimate is that if you are exceptionally anal-retentive about keeping track of exactly how long each part lasts and have acquired sufficient data from previous life cycles of those same parts for a comparison, then you might see a difference.
Otherwise, I doubt that you will.
