Wife's '91 LC80 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 13, 2023
Threads
6
Messages
27
Location
Tacoma, WA
Been on here for a few months now, and thought Id throw up a little thread about my wife's '91 LC80. This is really just to keep track of progress and share a bit of what I'm doing.

We got this thing Sep. 2023 after the wife's '04 Mini Cooper S s*** the bed. It had a bad water pump leak, and with the new Minis if anything on the engine goes bad you basically have to take the entire front end off the car and take all the accessories off the motor to get to anything. HUGE pain in the ass. It was also just not in very good shape cosmetically. So it went on the chopping block.

The goal was to replace the Mini with something 4x4 that she could drive to work in the snow, because she always gets super freaked out by cold weather and insists on driving my '17 Tacoma when it gets nasty out. We looked around for a while for all kinds of Toyotas, and finally found this 80 series listed for $3,500. I knew it would be rough, but I knew I could fix anything on it relatively easily compared to modern cars. I'v been working on cars from the 70s-90's for about 18 years now, so I'm very comfortable with most of auotmotive work.

Driving the Land Cruiser back was a bit dangerous but also very enjoyable. Lots of giggles. Every turn was an adventure as the tires were cracked and warn, the shocks were bad, and every suspension bushing was completely warn out. Total boat on the road. The brakes were questionable, the windows wouldn't go up and down, and it had a bad exhaust leak. It had a cracked front windshield, and a warn out interior. The good is that it has no rust at all. Super solid.
I think the PO had used it as a hunting rig in eastern WA because it was very very dirty and dusty inside and there were shell casings everywhere.

The day we got it.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

I've done a lot of work since that day. Thanks to this forum I got a comprehensive list of all the jobs I had to do together and ordered all the parts. Most of it being fairly strait forward bolt on work, but I battled the exhaust leak for weeks. It was between the manifolds and the down pipe flanges, and just kept loosening up. Turned out the flanges were warped badly so I ground them flat'ish, and then finished them by hand with a file and blue die to mark low and high spots. I also found that the threads in the manifolds for the down pipe were stripped out so the studs kept pulling out when I tightened the nut down. I had to TIG weld a few of the studs in from the top of the flange, like a plug weld. I'm not planning on keeping this motor for ever so I'm not worried about removing those studs.

Right when I thought I had the 80 running tip top, we took it on a trip over to my moms, and on the way back it blew the hell out of the top coolant hose while we were driving. Coolant gauge never moved so I'm guessing the temp sensor was bad. Scared the s*** out of both of us. Had to sign up for AAA on the side of the road, and get a tow home. Then I had the pleasure of of replacing the head gasket and all the coolant parts besides the radiator in a weekend. Got it done in about a day and a half.

Now we are finally at a point where the LC is running reliably and we can have some fun with it. Its a relief.

List of things I'v replaced or upgraded.

Engine:
New head gasket
New coolant pump
Flushed the engine out with Sea Foam and a cheap filter and oil, then did a K&N filter and good oil
Air filter
New intake boots
Painted valve cover (+5hp)
New thermostat
Replaced all coolant sensors
EGR delete
Cleaned IAC Valve
New fuel injectors and plugs
New distributor cap and rotor
New engine mounts
New vacuum hoses
New coolant hoses
New heater valve and heater core flush
Spark plugs and leads
Cleaned TB
New TPS
TIG welded a custom 2.5" stainless exhaust from the manifolds back with a Flowmaster 50 series
New drive belts
Previous owner deleted the AC

Wiring and electrical:
New alternator
New Optima battery
New ground wires
New power wire to starter
New fusible link
Moved the engine bay fuse box farther away from the exhaust with a custom bracket and wrapped it in gold heat reflective tape, cleaned all contacts, no more starting issues
Wired in an AUX Beam 8 gang switch
Atoto head unit and reverse cam
JBL door speakers

Brakes:
New pads and rotors up front
New brake hoses up front
New MC and fluid

Suspension:
ICON stage 1 3" lift kit
New urethane bushings everywhere
Delta panhard lift bracket (this made a surprising amount of difference in handling!)

Steering:
I TIG welded new steering links with DOM tube (steering wheel now stays center)

Body:
Depo lights and indicators
New window motors and lubed rubber tracks
New windshield glass and gasket
Painted grill black with SEM trim black

Wheels and Tires:
33" BFG KO2s on stock wheels (for now...)

This is how the car sits now.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Plans for this year are to get some bumpers on, and prep the truck for some overland trips. New seats are a must. I have a bad back and the driver seat is missing a lot of foam on the left which makes me sore. Maybe build some drawers for the back, and get a tent mounted up. We have driven most of the WBDR in my Tacoma, and have learned A LOT about what we need to bring and what is not necessary.
I also want to keep improving the look of the 80. Maybe a bed liner paint job as the paint is totally shot. I need to rebuild the axles too, the front axles are leaking.
Next year I want to do new wheels and some 35" KO3s with gears and lockers. Some Rock Jock sway bars are also in the works eventually. I'm also planning an LS swap down the road.

I have to watch my spending and time spent on this project, because I have been working on a Jeep build for over 2 years now and I really want to get it done this year. I have a '81 Jeep DJ5 postal Jeep that I converted to 4x4 with Charokee axles and I put an LQ9 into. Reeeealy want to be driving that soon.

Anyways thats it for now. Ill be updating this thread as I go. Im a welder fabricator and IM hoping to be able to share some fun fabrication projects down the road, and maybe have a few fabricated items to sell down the road.
 
Today I re-did the shifter boot for the transfer case shifter. I dicked it up the first time, because I'm impatient and kinda slow some times. To quote Dr. Pooh, "for I am a bear of very little brain, and long words bother me."

Here is a quick "How To" with a link to the boot on Amazon, and things you will need.

Shift boot. This thing fits perfectly on the LC80 metal shifter boot frame and its only $11. Its not real leather but it looks good and the stitching isn't bad. I wasn't able to find a Toyota boot for less than $100.


Tools you will need:
Hair dryer that you will need to use while your wife is gone (I already melted my wife's travel unit while trying to start some BBQ charcoal more quickly, so I don't think it matters if I get some glue on it)
A bottle of contact adhesive (this stuff stays a bit flexible and is used often in upholstery work)
Lots of small binder clips
Some sort of razor blade knife or exacto knife
A clean work surface you don't mind getting glue on. If your old you'll put some news paper down.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

First clean all the old glue off the metal boot frame. Doesn't have to totally shiny clean, you just don't want piles of old glue and dirt on it.
Then dry fit the boot to the frame and see how it fits. Get it stretched around the frame the way you want it, and then carefully cut two small slots on each end of the boot so the little metal tabs on ether end of the frame can go through the boot and help hold it in place. I pulled the edge of the boot over the tabs and then cut the slots over where I could see the tabs pushing through the boot. That way you know you have them in the right place.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Now you can start thinking about applying some glue. I didn't have enough binder clamps to do the whole thing at ones, so I did it in stages. How ever you do it, I recommend doing one side at a time so you aren't racing the glue drying out.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

I started on the long sides. Fold the edge of the boot back to expose the underside of the frame, and apply a modest amount of glue to the frame and the boot material. Give it a quick bit of hot air with the hair dryer to set the glue off. You want the glue tacky and sticky, not dry. Ones you have the glue right, fold the boot material over the frame and secure it in place with the binder clamps.
Repeat the with each of the four sides of the frame. Then let it dry, I'm going to let it sit over night.
Before installing, trim any excess boot material off with your knife.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr









 
Today I re-did the shifter boot for the transfer case shifter. I dicked it up the first time, because I'm impatient and kinda slow some times. To quote Dr. Pooh, "for I am a bear of very little brain, and long words bother me."

Here is a quick "How To" with a link to the boot on Amazon, and things you will need.

Shift boot. This thing fits perfectly on the LC80 metal shifter boot frame and its only $11. Its not real leather but it looks good and the stitching isn't bad. I wasn't able to find a Toyota boot for less than $100.


Tools you will need:
Hair dryer that you will need to use while your wife is gone (I already melted my wife's travel unit while trying to start some BBQ charcoal more quickly, so I don't think it matters if I get some glue on it)
A bottle of contact adhesive (this stuff stays a bit flexible and is used often in upholstery work)
Lots of small binder clips
Some sort of razor blade knife or exacto knife
A clean work surface you don't mind getting glue on. If your old you'll put some news paper down.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

First clean all the old glue off the metal boot frame. Doesn't have to totally shiny clean, you just don't want piles of old glue and dirt on it.
Then dry fit the boot to the frame and see how it fits. Get it stretched around the frame the way you want it, and then carefully cut two small slots on each end of the boot so the little metal tabs on ether end of the frame can go through the boot and help hold it in place. I pulled the edge of the boot over the tabs and then cut the slots over where I could see the tabs pushing through the boot. That way you know you have them in the right place.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Now you can start thinking about applying some glue. I didn't have enough binder clamps to do the whole thing at ones, so I did it in stages. How ever you do it, I recommend doing one side at a time so you aren't racing the glue drying out.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

I started on the long sides. Fold the edge of the boot back to expose the underside of the frame, and apply a modest amount of glue to the frame and the boot material. Give it a quick bit of hot air with the hair dryer to set the glue off. You want the glue tacky and sticky, not dry. Ones you have the glue right, fold the boot material over the frame and secure it in place with the binder clamps.
Repeat the with each of the four sides of the frame. Then let it dry, I'm going to let it sit over night.
Before installing, trim any excess boot material off with your knife.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr









This is awesome, I need to do my transfer case shifter boot as well. Thanks for the link.
 
LOL. Wife's 80 sounds a helluva lot more like YOUR 80. Paint looks OK, OEM wheels can't be improved upon IMO.
Let's see a photo under the hood. How many miles on the mighty 3FE?
 
LOL. Wife's 80 sounds a helluva lot more like YOUR 80. Paint looks OK, OEM wheels can't be improved upon IMO.
Let's see a photo under the hood. How many miles on the mighty 3FE?
Nah, I let her choose the things she is excited about, which is mostly cosmetics. I just keep it running and put things together for her. She absolutely loves her 80 and talks about Land Cruisers every day. I got lucky and married a lady that likes cars. We almost bought a FZJ80 many years ago, but the silly seller wouldn't sell it to us because he had promised some one ells first dibs. As we were driving home in a 4Runner we just bought, he called and told us the other people never showed up.
We have had a few Toyotas together. Our first one was a '86 Truck with an extended cab and 5 speed. Then the '95 4Runner, then my '17 Tacoma, and now this LC80.
I'll post up a picture of the 3FE later. Its not beautiful but it runs well. Its got ball park 300k miles on it but I don't know the exact number off the top of my head.
 
Last edited:
Today I removed this rats nest from the Landcruiser. The speakers stopped working for some resin last week, so I started trouble shooting. When I got down to checking the factory amp, which I never did before for some resin, I found this mess.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Luckily it was easy to snip out. I just soldered the factory wires back together, that the former owner had cut and spliced. Speakers work again. I have no idea at all what the heck was going on. The PO wired in some sort of after market plug and a relay. What for? Your guess is as good as mine.
 
Been on here for a few months now, and thought Id throw up a little thread about my wife's '91 LC80. This is really just to keep track of progress and share a bit of what I'm doing.

We got this thing Sep. 2023 after the wife's '04 Mini Cooper S s*** the bed. It had a bad water pump leak, and with the new Minis if anything on the engine goes bad you basically have to take the entire front end off the car and take all the accessories off the motor to get to anything. HUGE pain in the ass. It was also just not in very good shape cosmetically. So it went on the chopping block.

The goal was to replace the Mini with something 4x4 that she could drive to work in the snow, because she always gets super freaked out by cold weather and insists on driving my '17 Tacoma when it gets nasty out. We looked around for a while for all kinds of Toyotas, and finally found this 80 series listed for $3,500. I knew it would be rough, but I knew I could fix anything on it relatively easily compared to modern cars. I'v been working on cars from the 70s-90's for about 18 years now, so I'm very comfortable with most of auotmotive work.

Driving the Land Cruiser back was a bit dangerous but also very enjoyable. Lots of giggles. Every turn was an adventure as the tires were cracked and warn, the shocks were bad, and every suspension bushing was completely warn out. Total boat on the road. The brakes were questionable, the windows wouldn't go up and down, and it had a bad exhaust leak. It had a cracked front windshield, and a warn out interior. The good is that it has no rust at all. Super solid.
I think the PO had used it as a hunting rig in eastern WA because it was very very dirty and dusty inside and there were shell casings everywhere.

The day we got it.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

I've done a lot of work since that day. Thanks to this forum I got a comprehensive list of all the jobs I had to do together and ordered all the parts. Most of it being fairly strait forward bolt on work, but I battled the exhaust leak for weeks. It was between the manifolds and the down pipe flanges, and just kept loosening up. Turned out the flanges were warped badly so I ground them flat'ish, and then finished them by hand with a file and blue die to mark low and high spots. I also found that the threads in the manifolds for the down pipe were stripped out so the studs kept pulling out when I tightened the nut down. I had to TIG weld a few of the studs in from the top of the flange, like a plug weld. I'm not planning on keeping this motor for ever so I'm not worried about removing those studs.

Right when I thought I had the 80 running tip top, we took it on a trip over to my moms, and on the way back it blew the hell out of the top coolant hose while we were driving. Coolant gauge never moved so I'm guessing the temp sensor was bad. Scared the s*** out of both of us. Had to sign up for AAA on the side of the road, and get a tow home. Then I had the pleasure of of replacing the head gasket and all the coolant parts besides the radiator in a weekend. Got it done in about a day and a half.

Now we are finally at a point where the LC is running reliably and we can have some fun with it. Its a relief.

List of things I'v replaced or upgraded.

Engine:
New head gasket
New coolant pump
Flushed the engine out with Sea Foam and a cheap filter and oil, then did a K&N filter and good oil
Air filter
New intake boots
Painted valve cover (+5hp)
New thermostat
Replaced all coolant sensors
EGR delete
Cleaned IAC Valve
New fuel injectors and plugs
New distributor cap and rotor
New engine mounts
New vacuum hoses
New coolant hoses
New heater valve and heater core flush
Spark plugs and leads
Cleaned TB
New TPS
TIG welded a custom 2.5" stainless exhaust from the manifolds back with a Flowmaster 50 series
New drive belts
Previous owner deleted the AC

Wiring and electrical:
New alternator
New Optima battery
New ground wires
New power wire to starter
New fusible link
Moved the engine bay fuse box farther away from the exhaust with a custom bracket and wrapped it in gold heat reflective tape, cleaned all contacts, no more starting issues
Wired in an AUX Beam 8 gang switch
Atoto head unit and reverse cam
JBL door speakers

Brakes:
New pads and rotors up front
New brake hoses up front
New MC and fluid

Suspension:
ICON stage 1 3" lift kit
New urethane bushings everywhere
Delta panhard lift bracket (this made a surprising amount of difference in handling!)

Steering:
I TIG welded new steering links with DOM tube (steering wheel now stays center)

Body:
Depo lights and indicators
New window motors and lubed rubber tracks
New windshield glass and gasket
Painted grill black with SEM trim black

Wheels and Tires:
33" BFG KO2s on stock wheels (for now...)

This is how the car sits now.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Plans for this year are to get some bumpers on, and prep the truck for some overland trips. New seats are a must. I have a bad back and the driver seat is missing a lot of foam on the left which makes me sore. Maybe build some drawers for the back, and get a tent mounted up. We have driven most of the WBDR in my Tacoma, and have learned A LOT about what we need to bring and what is not necessary.
I also want to keep improving the look of the 80. Maybe a bed liner paint job as the paint is totally shot. I need to rebuild the axles too, the front axles are leaking.
Next year I want to do new wheels and some 35" KO3s with gears and lockers. Some Rock Jock sway bars are also in the works eventually. I'm also planning an LS swap down the road.

I have to watch my spending and time spent on this project, because I have been working on a Jeep build for over 2 years now and I really want to get it done this year. I have a '81 Jeep DJ5 postal Jeep that I converted to 4x4 with Charokee axles and I put an LQ9 into. Reeeealy want to be driving that soon.

Anyways thats it for now. Ill be updating this thread as I go. Im a welder fabricator and IM hoping to be able to share some fun fabrication projects down the road, and maybe have a few fabricated items to sell down the road.

Been on here for a few months now, and thought Id throw up a little thread about my wife's '91 LC80. This is really just to keep track of progress and share a bit of what I'm doing.

We got this thing Sep. 2023 after the wife's '04 Mini Cooper S s*** the bed. It had a bad water pump leak, and with the new Minis if anything on the engine goes bad you basically have to take the entire front end off the car and take all the accessories off the motor to get to anything. HUGE pain in the ass. It was also just not in very good shape cosmetically. So it went on the chopping block.

The goal was to replace the Mini with something 4x4 that she could drive to work in the snow, because she always gets super freaked out by cold weather and insists on driving my '17 Tacoma when it gets nasty out. We looked around for a while for all kinds of Toyotas, and finally found this 80 series listed for $3,500. I knew it would be rough, but I knew I could fix anything on it relatively easily compared to modern cars. I'v been working on cars from the 70s-90's for about 18 years now, so I'm very comfortable with most of auotmotive work.

Driving the Land Cruiser back was a bit dangerous but also very enjoyable. Lots of giggles. Every turn was an adventure as the tires were cracked and warn, the shocks were bad, and every suspension bushing was completely warn out. Total boat on the road. The brakes were questionable, the windows wouldn't go up and down, and it had a bad exhaust leak. It had a cracked front windshield, and a warn out interior. The good is that it has no rust at all. Super solid.
I think the PO had used it as a hunting rig in eastern WA because it was very very dirty and dusty inside and there were shell casings everywhere.

The day we got it.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

I've done a lot of work since that day. Thanks to this forum I got a comprehensive list of all the jobs I had to do together and ordered all the parts. Most of it being fairly strait forward bolt on work, but I battled the exhaust leak for weeks. It was between the manifolds and the down pipe flanges, and just kept loosening up. Turned out the flanges were warped badly so I ground them flat'ish, and then finished them by hand with a file and blue die to mark low and high spots. I also found that the threads in the manifolds for the down pipe were stripped out so the studs kept pulling out when I tightened the nut down. I had to TIG weld a few of the studs in from the top of the flange, like a plug weld. I'm not planning on keeping this motor for ever so I'm not worried about removing those studs.

Right when I thought I had the 80 running tip top, we took it on a trip over to my moms, and on the way back it blew the hell out of the top coolant hose while we were driving. Coolant gauge never moved so I'm guessing the temp sensor was bad. Scared the s*** out of both of us. Had to sign up for AAA on the side of the road, and get a tow home. Then I had the pleasure of of replacing the head gasket and all the coolant parts besides the radiator in a weekend. Got it done in about a day and a half.

Now we are finally at a point where the LC is running reliably and we can have some fun with it. Its a relief.

List of things I'v replaced or upgraded.

Engine:
New head gasket
New coolant pump
Flushed the engine out with Sea Foam and a cheap filter and oil, then did a K&N filter and good oil
Air filter
New intake boots
Painted valve cover (+5hp)
New thermostat
Replaced all coolant sensors
EGR delete
Cleaned IAC Valve
New fuel injectors and plugs
New distributor cap and rotor
New engine mounts
New vacuum hoses
New coolant hoses
New heater valve and heater core flush
Spark plugs and leads
Cleaned TB
New TPS
TIG welded a custom 2.5" stainless exhaust from the manifolds back with a Flowmaster 50 series
New drive belts
Previous owner deleted the AC

Wiring and electrical:
New alternator
New Optima battery
New ground wires
New power wire to starter
New fusible link
Moved the engine bay fuse box farther away from the exhaust with a custom bracket and wrapped it in gold heat reflective tape, cleaned all contacts, no more starting issues
Wired in an AUX Beam 8 gang switch
Atoto head unit and reverse cam
JBL door speakers

Brakes:
New pads and rotors up front
New brake hoses up front
New MC and fluid

Suspension:
ICON stage 1 3" lift kit
New urethane bushings everywhere
Delta panhard lift bracket (this made a surprising amount of difference in handling!)

Steering:
I TIG welded new steering links with DOM tube (steering wheel now stays center)

Body:
Depo lights and indicators
New window motors and lubed rubber tracks
New windshield glass and gasket
Painted grill black with SEM trim black

Wheels and Tires:
33" BFG KO2s on stock wheels (for now...)

This is how the car sits now.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Plans for this year are to get some bumpers on, and prep the truck for some overland trips. New seats are a must. I have a bad back and the driver seat is missing a lot of foam on the left which makes me sore. Maybe build some drawers for the back, and get a tent mounted up. We have driven most of the WBDR in my Tacoma, and have learned A LOT about what we need to bring and what is not necessary.
I also want to keep improving the look of the 80. Maybe a bed liner paint job as the paint is totally shot. I need to rebuild the axles too, the front axles are leaking.
Next year I want to do new wheels and some 35" KO3s with gears and lockers. Some Rock Jock sway bars are also in the works eventually. I'm also planning an LS swap down the road.

I have to watch my spending and time spent on this project, because I have been working on a Jeep build for over 2 years now and I really want to get it done this year. I have a '81 Jeep DJ5 postal Jeep that I converted to 4x4 with Charokee axles and I put an LQ9 into. Reeeealy want to be driving that soon.

Anyways thats it for now. Ill be updating this thread as I go. Im a welder fabricator and IM hoping to be able to share some fun fabrication projects down the road, and maybe have a few fabricated items to sell down the road.
Any heating issues with that Atoto head unit? I wrote the company asking why they put off so much heat, the acceptable range according to them is up to 60 c. Hope to see you out on the trail, we did the Enumclaw to Easton old highway trail in my Tacoma, I’m really looking forward to doing it in my 80.
 
Any heating issues with that Atoto head unit? I wrote the company asking why they put off so much heat, the acceptable range according to them is up to 60 c. Hope to see you out on the trail, we did the Enumclaw to Easton old highway trail in my Tacoma, I’m really looking forward to doing it in my 80.
Haven't had any heat issues with the radio. We did have an odd issue where the radio was intermittently loosing sound. Everything worked as it should, all sound setting were right, but no sound from any speakers. Didn't matter if I used USB, AUX, BT, or Radio. No sound. It some how resolved it's self at some point and its been working right for weeks now. No idea what was wrong. Couldn't find any loose wires or anything.
 
I thought I'd fixed the EFI issue by moving the relay box away from the exhaust, but yesterday on the way to a hike with my dad the LC died twice. Refused to start at the gas station until it cooled down, and then a few miles later it died on me while driving. Pulled over, let it cool down again and plugged in a spare EFI relay. Drove it home and parked it.
So today I'm going to do some re wiring.
 
Anyone have a part number for the plastic body EFI relay from the Camry that plugs into the 3FE relay plug?
 
Got the EFI relay rewired with some 10g wire. The ends of the original wires were definitely corroded and and looked like they were getting kind of toasted brown by heat.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Replaced the wire from EB1 to the relay, and the wire from the relay to the fuse.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

If this doesn't work, I'll make a little extension harness and run the relay into the drivers footwell, away from the heat like a few other people have done. I feel like the LC starts up just a tad faster now that the wiring is fixed.

Some one was asking for a picture of the engine bay, so here it is. Its dirty and there is some messy "temporary" wiring for the Auxbeam switch relay box. Originally I was trying to fit a second battery in the space that opened up by moving the relay box and deleting the OEM wiper fluid bottle, but I could get the hood to close no matter how I oriented things. That's why there is some real heavy duty wire running from the battery to that area. Right now that wire is only running the Auxbeam unit, which is way over kill. At some point I'm going to down size the wire and make a nice mounting bracket for the Auxbeam unit.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

I wrapped the relay box in some of that fancy gold foil tape to try and keep some heat off of it.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

I also stuck the PRP seats I bought for my Jeep in the LC. My wife already informed me that they belong to her now, so I guess I'm buying new ones for the Jeep 😄
I ordered some Planted seat brackets for the seats because they are suppose to be great, but the aren't. WAY over priced for what I got. They are over $200 each, and they showed up with the powder coat rubbed off a bunch of the edges because of bad packaging, and the passenger side bracket was real hard to bolt in. Had to use a pry bar to pull it around and get the bolt holes to line up. Next time Ill just order some cheap ones.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

I also have a Coastal Offroad front bumper showing up some time soon. Excited for that.
 
I picked up a WhiteLine rear sway bar from RCA Garage. Sadly the finish was chipped slightly during shipping. I masked it and blasted it with some sandable primer. Probably just use some Rustoleum Satin black next and finish off with a blast of clear coat.

IMG_9895.jpeg


IMG_9896.jpeg


IMG_9897.jpeg


IMG_9899.jpeg


IMG_9900.jpeg
 
I picked up a WhiteLine rear sway bar from RCA Garage. Sadly the finish was chipped slightly during shipping. I masked it and blasted it with some sandable primer. Probably just use some Rustoleum Satin black next and finish off with a blast of clear coat.

Nice. Looks quite a bit beefier than the stock one. I think I'm going to get one of the sway bars from Rock Jock and weld that in at some point.
 
Did a few things recently. We got our Coastal Offroad DIY bumper kit in, and I welded it up and got it dry fit to the LC. Happy with it. Time to save up for a winch and some lights. Most likely going to buy a Superwinch SX12SR, which is their 12k winch with synthetic rope. I owned one of their winches before and liked it a lot. Also going to throw some Diode Dynamics lights in it at some point. Bumper should be back from powder coating on the 7th.

Stuck a snorkel on because it was on my wife's list of things she wants. She said "now it looks hard core." hahaha

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Also replaced the low pressure steering pump hose today, as the old one cracked and sprung a leak. Then I re re adjusted the brake proportioning valve because the rear drums were locking up badly after my first attempt. Does anyone make a kit to delete the LSPV, and replace it with a manual valve? Iv seen them for the 40 series, but not the 80.

I also finally got around to installing the beefy 1.5" 1/4" wall DOM tube tie rod. The stock tie rod was interfering with the sway bar badly, and with this tie rod being even fatter, I made some custom brackets to bring the sway bar up just a tad so they don't rub anymore. The Icon lift kit came with sway bar spacers, but they just make the issue worse. Maybe they are only for the FZJ? Because they lower the sway bar on the frame side of things which makes the issue worse. Toyota's sway bar to frame bracket also seams WAY over engineered. Why doesn't the sway bar just bolt directly to the frame, instead of having all the crap between the sway bar and the frame? All the other cars Iv ever worked on have the sway bar bolted directly to the frame.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr
 

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