I'd be interested in hearing what is recommended for cam break-in, too.
who has done a cam swap in a 2F without removing the motor??? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Mace
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Basic rule of thumb on flat tappet cam.....start off with fresh oil/filter....if possible prime engine.....run @ high idle 1500~3000 rpms for 20~30 minutes.... shut it off and change oil/filter after cool down.....drive it in your normal manor....change oil/filter again after 500~1000 miles..... do not use synthetic oil for at least 5000 miles....
Grant, do you have a favorite break-in oil? I've read non detergent oil, Shell RotellaT, Chevron Delo400, Mobil Delvac as suggested choices. Would the usual multivis I would normally put in (Castrol 20W50) be OK, or do I want a lighter oil? How important is the startup oil choice for our tractor engines? (I'm assuming any fresh oil is better than Mace's vintage used oil
.)*edit: while I'm asking, I coated my lifters with assembly lube (grease) when I installed them. Is that OK? Good? Bad? Indifferent? (I can still pull them and change to something else if it would be a good idea.)
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That's exactly what I did, except I did not have the cajones to run at 3K. I kept it about 22-2300 for 20 minutes. I used straight 30wt non-detergent oil. Since the first oil change I've run Castrol GTX in 20-50. I may change to Rotella, dunno. After the second oil change I ran it almost 4K
But I was afraid of the rings not seating. When I bought my FJC they told me not to change the oil for at least 5K to seat the rings. Lots of theories out there, but what Grant suggested is the tried and true AFAIK.Ed
Ed-it to IDave's edit......I coated everything with assembly lube AND I primed the oil pump with a drill..............
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Yep, got the drill setup. How long did you prime?
Until my mechanical oil pressure gauge started to move and then some
You can't rely on watching for oil to come out of the rockers unless you happen to have the cam perfectly aligned, but you will fill the main galley and assure there is oil there, ready to go.
Until my mechanical oil pressure gauge started to move and then some
On a pre-F 1/2 F engine, you don't have to worry about the cam hole alignment.
We's got that copper tube instead!
On a pre-F 1/2 F engine, you don't have to worry about the cam hole alignment.
But I thought it's source was the #2 cam bearing? But, then again, I don't know. Maybe it feeds from the main oil galley?
Come to think of it, you're right.
The oil holes will align when the engine is on #1 tdc or very close vicinity...............
Mace is a TDC kinda guy..................Me? Not so much.............I never would have thought of that
Ed
- Thread starter
- #53
Mace is a TDC kinda guy..................Me? Not so much.............I never would have thought of that
Ed
lol
That, is kinda funny..
I am pretty far from a TDC kinda guy
Mace; having royally screwed up a couple of very expensive cams and rebuilds in the distant past have had a long pow wow with Ron Iskendarian who strongly recommended an engine break in oil; Bradd Penn Break in oil.......the old Kendall oil company name was bought out several years ago but the old refinery still makes premium "Green" racing oil and break in oil under a different name; it is now called Brad Penn racing oils <http://www.bradpennracing.com>the refinery apparently was bought back by a group of the engineers BUT they cannot use the Kendall name we were all familiar with..................engine oils are not the same as they were in the past and we are using old time designed engines with flat tappets....you might want to go to their website and give it a quick read.it is quite informative; appologize for any hijacking just wanted to the reccomends of the guy who has built both our cams 
Lou
Lou
