Whitecruise 100 series build up

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Okay yeah I've read that. That's exactly what we did. We had a friend of ours Darren Webster from. Wasatch Cruisers out of slc help us. Thanks that did explain more
 
4peanut, thanks for the help. I looked at your cruiser pics and your front end looks about right. What's your measure from center hub to well? I feel pretty solid the way the lift is, but I would enjoy being the heighest I can get. Spacers? I was thinking slew reservoir shocks an then OME shocks in back?
 
4peanut, thanks for the help. I looked at your cruiser pics and your front end looks about right. What's your measure from center hub to well?

I'm running Bilstein HDs all around, stock torsion bars up front, and OME 865's in back. My measurements are 21" front and 22.25" rear (865s netted me 2" to start, YMMV). I have had it higher than 21" up front, and while it looks good I do not like the way it drives. The steering is too light and there is a lot of torque steer under even moderate acceleration (i.e. not enough droop). Save yourself the money, time and frustration and follow the lead of those that have gone before us like spressomon, pfran42, and 1loudLX. These guys have some of the nicest 100's on the board, they drive them everywhere, and none of them are running a ridiculous amount of front lift.

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That's good info, thanks I'll check my measurements. I am running 865s in rear as well. I guess the next upgrade for me is tires, then shocks. Are you happy with bilstein ? Thanks for you help
 
I had 20.5" in front from center of hub to wheel well in front, and 22" in rear. Good? Anything I should adjust? I still need to replace the seal around the cv boot after torquing the tbars. I just got a fairly simple "tighten with a screwdriver " seals but the there aren't holes or slits in the track, just indents so it doesn't cut the boot, correct?
 
In order to get more than 2.5" lift in the front, you would need to drop the rear torsion bar mounting points, lower the entire front end, new steering knuckles, ... the list goes on. No one in the states makes a kit like this. There are a few in Japan that might but their durability is questionable. Also, there is little to no real world gain. You might be interested in doing a small body lift, someone on here was selling a small body lift to help people clear 35" tires.
 
Are you happy with bilstein?

I've had them on for less than 100 miles, and my ride height changed (more rake) and I got a fresh alignment that brought my camber from about +.4 to -.5, so there's a lot of variables. I can say that I have had this truck for three years and 30,000 miles and it has never felt better.

I had 20.5" in front from center of hub to wheel well in front, and 22" in rear. Good?

Unless you install a diff drop. I wouldn't touch a thing up front.

I still need to replace the seal around the cv boot after torquing the tbars. I just got a fairly simple "tighten with a screwdriver " seals but the there aren't holes or slits in the track, just indents so it doesn't cut the boot, correct?

Hit up pfran42 (Paul) for his CV boot clamp kit. I used them on a reboot, and also used one to replace a clamp on a leaking boot. Leak is gone.
 
Okay sounds like I'm being greedy. Thanks tho for telling me that. I guess 2.5" works! Haha sounds like a good shock, I'm deciding between those and OME. I like OMEs price much better!
 
I have looked at his kit and my seals are like the exact same deal. So I think I'm good with the ones I've got. I'll try and find some time to put those on this week. The hunt for tires goes on and on... They'll come sooner or later.
 
whitecruise said:
I'm deciding between those and OME. I like OMEs price much better!

I picked up my four Bilsteins for $75.99 each, with free two day shipping through a ShopRunner 30-day free trial, plus $45 in Auto Zone gift cards ($15 for each $100 spent) from autozone.com a few weeks ago. Net cost $258.96. YMMV.
 
Wow that is a deal. Those look and sound pretty solid. They said the rear is 45 mm how does that compare to the stock shock?
 

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