While You’re At It: Front brakes (8 Viewers)

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Southlake, TX
This LDW I’ll have time to wrench so I ordered front OEM rotors and pads. What do you normally do while you’re at it? Paint the caliper? Replace the caliper? Flexible brake lines? Purge, replace & bleed fluid?

FYI. Brakes operate fine. No leaks, but this is part of my systematic replacement of every part or component
 
How much time do you have?

If the calipers are original and nasty, it could be good to get a rebuild kit to replace the rubber seals and take the opportunity to paint them.

If flex lines are original, definitely good to replace those as well since you'll have the system open if you are re-doing the calipers.

Good time to replace the wheel bearings too.

The ultimate "while you're in there" would be full knuckle rebuild and axle shaft seals. :rofl:
 
Unless the calipers are in such good condition that fresh paint is all they need, honestly I'd get the Toyota remans if you can instead of rebuilding them. It's a lot of work, pistons might be a pain to remove and in the process you'll likely find more parts you want or need to replace.

This was my recent rebuild with the cylinder kits 04479-60020 and 04479-60030, new flex lines, union bolts, bleeder plugs, slider pins and main caliper bolts

2025-06-03 16.21.34.webp
 
If you're systematically replacing everything then of course it'd be an opportune time to replace the lines and calipers along with those rotors and pads.
I personally would not unless they look sketchy.
 
Unless the calipers are in such good condition that fresh paint is all they need, honestly I'd get the Toyota remans if you can instead of rebuilding them. It's a lot of work, pistons might be a pain to remove and in the process you'll likely find more parts you want or need to replace.

This was my recent rebuild with the cylinder kits 04479-60020 and 04479-60030, new flex lines, union bolts, bleeder plugs, slider pins and main caliper bolts

View attachment 3978785
The Way to Go!!
 
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The remans are pretty much a bargain out of Ourisman in Richmond. If yours are original, it is pretty much a no brainer to place them. Hoses are condition dependent. Once you are that far in, bearings are on the list. Use a 54mm socket, not a farmer's chisel on the big nuts.
 
Adding that new OEM calipers do not come with new crush washers for the banjo bolts like parts store calipers do. I had trouble finding the appropriate sized crush washers and had to reuse my old ones after light sanding. Lesson: Buy new washers with the calipers

Edit: This applies to new OEM calipers. Not sure about remans.
 
Adding that new OEM calipers do not come with new crush washers for the banjo bolts like parts store calipers do. I had trouble finding the appropriate sized crush washers and had to reuse my old ones after light sanding. Lesson: Buy new washers with the calipers

Edit: This applies to new OEM calipers. Not sure about remans.
I’ve been piecemealing parts all day. New caliper bolts, banjo and crush washers, shims, pins; anti rattle, hose clamp thingy, hub gasket, lock washer, etc.

Now, is there really such a thing as a one-man bleeder kit. I’m scarred from sitting in the old Oldsmobile Delta 88 trying to stand on the pedal while my dad yelled at me forty years ago.
 
I’ve been piecemealing parts all day. New caliper bolts, banjo and crush washers, shims, pins; anti rattle, hose clamp thingy, hub gasket, lock washer, etc.

Now, is there really such a thing as a one-man bleeder kit. I’m scarred from sitting in the old Oldsmobile Delta 88 trying to stand on the pedal while my dad yelled at me forty years ago.
I have the motive kit, but I have also purchased the Toyota specific fitting for the master because the universal one that comes with the kit sucks ass.

Do a search for bleed brakes here and read through a few threads for sources.

You did knuckles and bearing 8 months ago and didn't do rotors? Cause you gotta take apart all the same stuff.....
 
I have the motive kit, but I have also purchased the Toyota specific fitting for the master because the universal one that comes with the kit sucks ass.

Do a search for bleed brakes here and read through a few threads for sources.

You did knuckles and bearing 8 months ago and didn't do rotors? Cause you gotta take apart all the same stuff.....
I bought this cruiser exactly one year ago over LDW. I immediately took it to Dajda’s “Texas Cruiser Man” and said “fix everything”. They tackled the knuckles which were obviously bad. They said the brakes were fine. Now that I’ve spent a year doing most of my repairs I would have known to do it all at the same time.
 
I bought this cruiser exactly one year ago over LDW. I immediately took it to Dajda’s “Texas Cruiser Man” and said “fix everything”. They tackled the knuckles which were obviously bad. They said the brakes were fine. Now that I’ve spent a year doing most of my repairs I would have known to do it all at the same time.
This will give you the opportunity to double check wheel bearings, proper grease and proper wheel bearing torque.

Consider changing all hub studs as well since there have been many monkeys with impact wrenches changing tires over the years. I have a 20T press and it added a total of about 1 hours to the whole rebuild. You'll already have the hubs off anyway.

Make sure to lube the spindle bushings well.
 
How much time do you have?

If the calipers are original and nasty, it could be good to get a rebuild kit to replace the rubber seals and take the opportunity to paint them.

If flex lines are original, definitely good to replace those as well since you'll have the system open if you are re-doing the calipers.

Good time to replace the wheel bearings too.

The ultimate "while you're in there" would be full knuckle rebuild and axle shaft seals. :rofl:

Right??? Half-way there by the time the rotor is accessible...
 
Take a good look at your flexible brake lines, both the ones on the knuckle and the one from the axel to the frame - mine were ok-ish, but they are fairly cheap to replace - and if you are bleeding the brakes anyway - why not have fresh lines.
when I did this, I used almost a whole bottle of Brake fluid, as I kept purging the lines until fluid ran clear- it was pretty nasty for the first few feet of lines. (I did front and back and Level switch under the rear axel at the same time.

A basic mityvac or any vacuum bleeder system will work. although I have had success with just a plastic hose and bottle to catch the fluid, but I run the hose up higher than the caliper, so as bubbles come out of the caliper, they go up.
 

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