Which year to buy? (Noob question) (1 Viewer)

CSA

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I'm thinking about a 100 and want to spend no more than 25k. Recognizing that the later the model the better, in general, is there a model year or years I should be focusing on?

Thanks.
 
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2001 minimum. Trac, 4 pinion diff and uses regular gas instead of premium. If you can squeez in an 03, they went to 5 speed auto that year.
 

spressomon

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Also if it is important to you check to be sure whichever year you get has rear A/C. Advantages to every year I think...in a perfect world given what I have learned a 2003...then add lockers fr/rr...35's...and 4.56 fr/rr...OME, et.c then you're set ;)
 
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CSA said:
I'm thinking about a 100 and want to spend no more than 25k. Recognizing that the later the model the better, in general, is there a model year or years I should be focusing on?

Thanks.

Buy a 2000 with low miles for dirt cheap, then with the rest of the 25K...add all the good stuff ( lockers, ARB/Slee bars, winch, beefy tires, racks..etc.. !!)..You might even have enough left to fill the gas tank once or twice !! ;)
 

hoser

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I would go for a '00 ('01 if you want Navi). At the time I was shopping, the '00s were about $5k more than the 98-99s. I chose to get a 98 and spend the $5k on mods. I wanted to keep the total cost (with mods) under $30k-- ($10k in mods).
 
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Also consider the Lexus LX 470 as it is essentially a clone and may actually be cheaper (more sold) with a maintnence history accessed at any Lexus dealer. A Lexus is even more likely to have been a mall queen properly dealer serviced at regular intervals by the household help. :D

Is trac available in earlier model years on the LX?

The :princess: and pink panty comments may be the only downside. ;)
 
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Do the LX470's all use premium, or did they also switch to regular in '01? If premium, that's $5 extra per tank, say 40 tanks/year, so $200 more/year in fuel assuming about 12K mi driven annually (I guess a small price to pay if it has all those extra luxuries). Looking at the LC mag from Japan, it seems a number of owners strip all the LC decals from their rigs (both 100's and Cygnus) and buy the LX decals (like $300 for the body/grille emblems, then $300 more for the wheel emblems, then $300 more for the floormats, $600 for the airbag, etc....you get the picture).

Also, if you're interested in a '03+, there seem to be more LX's than LC's available. Besides the number of rigs sold, my theory is LC owners tend to keep their vehicles longer while LX drivers are more likely to trade in around 60K mi for the latest body style or at the expiration of a lease. Finally, I've yet to see a LX tow while it seems quite a few LC owners on this board do.
 

hoser

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NMuzj100 said:
Also consider the Lexus LX 470 as it is essentially a clone and may actually be cheaper (more sold) with a maintnence history accessed at any Lexus dealer. A Lexus is even more likely to have been a mall queen properly dealer serviced at regular intervals by the household help. :D

Is trac available in earlier model years on the LX?

The :princess: and pink panty comments may be the only downside. ;)
Like the LC, ATRAC is available only on '00+ for the LX.

Personally, I'd buy an LX especially in the early years (pre '03) where there was a significant difference. The two parts that often break in the LX are the steering wheel "moan" and the auto side view mirrors--both of which can be disengaged. The only drawbacks I see are the 285lbs of increased weight and the fewer aftermarket front bumper alternatives.

As for fuel grades, many of us have been using less than premium fuel with no ill results so far (crossed fingers). I'm still waiting for somebody to put their 100 on a dyno--87 octane vs 91(or 92) octane. I'll gladly chip in for the dyno testing costs.
 
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Josh83 said:
2001 minimum. Trac, 4 pinion diff and uses regular gas instead of premium. If you can squeez in an 03, they went to 5 speed auto that year.
My 2001 manual doesn't say regular octane? It needs premium. I can tell the difference after about 50 miles on regular. Where did you read this?
 
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A low-test (or -octane) fuel is of higher volatility and you can get more energy out of it given appropriate timing and lower RPMs, and of course is less likely to precombust under pressure. IIRC low-test has a higher butane %. I don't think you'd get any HP differences between the gasolines, maybe a small chance of retarded timing skewing.

Just my guess, I'm probably wrong.

What is the 2UZ-FE's compression throughout the years?
 
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hoser said:
Like the LC, ATRAC is available only on '00+ for the LX.

Personally, I'd buy an LX especially in the early years (pre '03) where there was a significant difference. The two parts that often break in the LX are the steering wheel "moan" and the auto side view mirrors--both of which can be disengaged. The only drawbacks I see are the 285lbs of increased weight and the fewer aftermarket front bumper alternatives.

As for fuel grades, many of us have been using less than premium fuel with no ill results so far (crossed fingers). I'm still waiting for somebody to put their 100 on a dyno--87 octane vs 91(or 92) octane. I'll gladly chip in for the dyno testing costs.

I have been using 87 for the past 2 months with no ill effects and gettin on average 15mpg and that is alot of non highway driving.
 
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ShottsUZJ100 said:
My 2001 manual doesn't say regular octane? It needs premium. I can tell the difference after about 50 miles on regular. Where did you read this?

I also have an 01 and the manual says that if premium (91 or higher) is not available you may run 87.
 

hoser

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Here are Compression Ratios from an unconfirmed source for both LC and LX:
98-02 9.3:1 (Bore x stroke = 3.66 X 3.40)
03-05 9.6:1 (Bore x stroke = 3.70 X 3.31)
2006 10:1
 
Last edited:
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Very interesting. They've continued to overbore the 2UZ through the years, now by even a greater margin. I should know this, but what's the torque curve on the latter years comparatively? I bet it's higher in the band and I bet peak HP is reached quicker?

Interesting though that compression is bumped UP yet req's for high-test go away? Not making much sense here, other than possibly the greater bore of the cyl gives more block area in the chamber to reduce risk of predetonation?
 

hoser

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I don't have the torque curves for this engine but Toyota "advertises" the following:

98-02
230 hp @ 4,800
Torque 320 lb-ft @ 3,400

03-05
235 hp @ 4,800
Torque 320 lb-ft @ 3,400

2006
275 hp @ 4,800
Torque 332 lb-ft @ 3,400
 

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