Which would you buy, a BJ60 or a HJ60?

[brownbear]

Funny you should ask, the health nurse said I have the blood pressure of a teenage girl. I'm not sure if that's good or bad.
In any event. I am tired of arguing about 2H and 3B engines. We'll just have to agree to disagree. Everyone can do thier own research and make the decision that is best for them.

Cheers.

Sheldon

As long as you don't get other things teenage girls get all is fine...


I think this is the last 2h vs 3b thread..... I am going to merge all new ones into this one

Let it suck it's self into outer space....

Best thing is we are driving durable Toyotas. Cheers and calm.

 

[bigbrowndog]

Funny you should ask, the health nurse said I have the blood pressure of a teenage girl. I'm not sure if that's good or bad.
In any event. I am tired of arguing about 2H and 3B engines. We'll just have to agree to disagree. Everyone can do thier own research and make the decision that is best for them.

Cheers.

Sheldon

I asked about the blood pressure as a return to your remark, not really my style. I really have not heard an argument, just silly statements that are made and others parrot because they think "that guy is an expert" and I explained why a local bloke would not write up on the forum because of it [with 40 years rebuilding and machining engines of all sorts]. The only statement I made about the 3B was that it was considered underpowered for the Australian market [ right back through all my posts]. It would be more constructive to advise which rings / pistons etc to use in all engines as a lot of the cheap rings are not dimensionally stable and do not fit very well so they wear the piston and collapse. Every one of Toyota' engine has a weakness or two none are perfect.Then when they are not maintained correctly is this because of an inbuilt fault or poor maintenance is the fault? Previously pointing out about head deposits, valve adjustment, overheating/ split radiators, egt's from crook injectors etc and winding up pumps to cover crook injectors rather than fixing the problem. From what is posted from time to time there seems to be only a few diesel mechanics in N.A. that have a great deal of experience with Toyota diesels less with Nissans unlike here in Oz where they are common and many diesel mechanics specialise in them and are happy to give advise.

 

[Greg_B]

Exactly. Getting them machined for a 3B or 2H is ok. My mate tells me after machining they are actually a bit softer but if you check them once a year or more often if you are doing a very high mileage they will still last for years. Of course if they are badly worn its a throw away and new ones are very expensive and should be fitted with new cam followers and pushrods,LOL if this is the case I am quite sure that a new or reground cam will be needed. All part of diesel maintainence Good to hear. cheers

Hi bbd...Actually, you can harden the surface again after they are surfaced. This would be the correct way to do it so it is not pounded out in short order...

gb

 

[Garry]

Exactly. Getting them machined for a 3B or 2H is ok. My mate tells me after machining they are actually a bit softer but if you check them once a year or more often if you are doing a very high mileage they will still last for years. Of course if they are badly worn its a throw away and new ones are very expensive and should be fitted with new cam followers and pushrods,LOL if this is the case I am quite sure that a new or reground cam will be needed. All part of diesel maintainence Good to hear. cheers

I had the rockers built up and re-surfaced about 4 years ago (25000km) and have checked the gaps twice since, with no adjustment needed.

 

[bigbrowndog]

I had the rockers built up and re-surfaced about 4 years ago (25000km) and have checked the gaps twice since, with no adjustment needed.

Cheers, That's good to hear. The settings can change as the valve seats wear first.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

One of the possible reasons for the negative Canuck reactions to the 2H may be due to the fact that the 2H motors that came into Canada were not the same quality of engine that Australia had been having for years. From what I gather, in 1985 they made some changes to this engine - going from wet cylinder liners to no cyl. liners, for example - that may have made for a less-durable product. This motor was only seen in Canada from 1986-7.

I'm glad, knowing the above, that mine, a 1982, is the earlier version. I'm learning lots about it every day as I work on it.

-Chris

 

[peterdouglas]

I know I'm entering this conversation rather late, but I chose a 3B for a few reasons:

1. I figured it would be more economical to operate a 4 cylinder over the 6 (and I heard there was only a small decrease in power according a friend who has owned both)

2. That same friend also told me, as Sheldon stated, that there is a disproportionate number of 6 cylinders vs 4 cylinders needing rebuilds

3. In my past experience with a gutless gasser 1.7 liter 4 cylinder Lada Niva 4x4, it was the "underpowered-ness" that helped it in mucky conditions - less likely to spin the tires. Not a fair comparison, but my gas powered 2006 Toyota Matrix (basically a Corolla mechanically, for the non North Americans), is nice and powerful and torquey, for the class of car it is. Even with really good winter tires, it spins tires in all snow conditions so easily. In my BJ60 with 30" x 9.5" BFG All Terrain TA KO tires, I can stomp on the accelerator in 2WD and rarely spin the wheels.

Lastly, my BJ60 had two previous long term owners. Both were seniors who, sterotypically, drive slow and gentle. The first guy apparently used it mostly for going hunting. Plus, it has been oil sprayed for rust proofing every year since new and has only minimal rust - a rarity for an 84 Toyota from the snow belt part of Canada! That's why I chose my 1984 BJ60. It's now got 328,000 kms and still running strong.

 

[Duane]

What a read this thread has been!
I am recently new to driving a BJ60..inherited the girlfriends with a wack of miles on it.
If I were looking for a used cruiser the condition of the vehicle would be my main concern as the engines seem like the most reliable part! Body and frame condition first as mechanical stuff is easy to deal with.
At 750,000 km+ everything we are fixing are all the small things that keep costing money...radiator, broken shock mount, exhaust, tranny/xfer case seal, pinion seals, door latches, master cylinder, panel clips, seats, batteries, radio/speakers, windshield, glowplug rail corrosion, hoses etc. An engine is one of the least likely problems and so many are available. So many people neglect the coolant condition and it can cause costly problems.
To me #1 rust, #2 fluid leaks and condition of (oil, coolant, brake fluid) #3 check everything to see that it works. #4 If all these things are equal then one can ponder to take the 4 or 6 cylinder.
That's my 2 cents

 

[Duane]

oops apologies GLTHFJ60 as I read what you initially posted. If the 2 were vehicles were perfect which one to pick.....
I think I read somewhere in this thread about where the engines were assembled as being a reason.........
That might be a good point... someone pointed that out to me after I bought my 4runner about the J I think in the VIN# meaning it was assembled in Japan. That might be an angle to check assuming one assembly plant or country makes a better component or source components come from a better source. My experience in robotics/automation/manufacturing would believe that for certain if you can find out. Materials and specs always vary. I think the engine owner determines which will last longer. Buy which ever one you prefer to drive in your application and you will probably never regret your decision.
ok that was my 4 cents now

 

[Tofudebeest]

Did you say RUST?

 

[Garry]

Holy Sh*t!! Looks like someone has had a crack at a cheap fix on that one! Not very successfully though.

 

[Tofudebeest]

same section after cutting out cancer and treating.