Which cruiser is better? (5 Viewers)

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That is a clean rig! A bit of a digression, but can someone tell me who makes those alloy wheels? I've seen those around, and would like to try to get a set for my LJ78. My factory 16"x6" rims are pretty limiting to the width of tires I can mount.

Cragar soft 8's?: http://www.customwheelsdirect.com/html/wheels_brand/wheel_detail.php?id=74594

That black one above is in incredible shape, unreal. As far as mileage goes, my 85 BJ70 has 31x10.5 A/T's, stock gearing. Filled up the other day, went 525km's on 65 litres of diesel, around town. Works out around 21mpg I believe.
 
You didn't mention the price for the Lj71 but if it was the same price as the BJ or less, I would consider if in seriously good nick (looks to be). What kind of use(s) are you needing for your future cruiser? You will not be able to tow anything with the 2.4. The rust factor difference alone is worth $1000's in my opinion, but being RHD though, if youre in ON maybe you should look into insurance? If looking atthe 2.4 has a t-belt been done recently? Were the idlers and water pump changed at the time? You'll be due for that stuff if not...

Tough call. I've had good experiences with several 2.4td's but they were the old-school variant with the black valve cover and NOT the 2lte. Super gutless and you cannot/should not run anything over 30, maybe 31" tires. They certainly have less "forgiveness" than the more robust 3B. An older diesel cruiser on a student budget may seriously affect your budget for other things.

Have fun with your shopping/ decision and keep us in the loop!
That mint BJ70 is serious Cruiser p0rn btw....lucky owner!!!!
 
Quick question diesel69er, how much do you think it would be for the rust repair professionally done?

Personally ,I wouldnt bother. Dont limit yourself to 7# series,check out a 60 and 80 series.They dont use all that much more fuel and the extra room can be very useful.
 
In your situation, I'd go with the best deal of those two. The BJ70 has the more desirable and dependable drivetrain, but the LJ is almost certainly in better shape. Usually it comes down to paying too much for a rusty old cruiser or WAY too much for a clean Cruiser. With the less expensive rust bucket you can enjoy it for a few years, then sell at loss or scavenge the drivetrain. Guys that buy the expensive Cruisers typically have just as many issues as the cheaper trucks, sink tons more money into them, then eventually sell at an even bigger loss. :D
 
An older diesel cruiser on a student budget may seriously affect your budget for other things.
X 2000.....

Sorry, but I'm going to be the grumpy ol' phart here, and elaborate. I don't know how old the student is, or what they are studying, but a student needs low maintenance, reliable, cheap transportation that doesn't consume a bunch of their time and resources.
- Anything that's rusted significantly like that BJ will cost more to fix than it's worth - and will be rusted badly again in 3 to 5 years.. Your much better off spending 10 or 15k for a HZJ73.
- With the LJ, it looks like it would be a great little project - just budget 6 to 10 k for a good motor/tranny swap. And once done, it will have less "value" on the open market than it does now.

A student on a budget should be running away from those "deals", and looking for a Echo/Yaris/Civic/Corolla.. And DON"T get a VW!
 
X 2000.....

Sorry, but I'm going to be the grumpy ol' phart here, and elaborate. I don't know how old the student is, or what they are studying, but a student needs low maintenance, reliable, cheap transportation that doesn't consume a bunch of their time and resources.
- Anything that's rusted significantly like that BJ will cost more to fix than it's worth - and will be rusted badly again in 3 to 5 years.. Your much better off spending 10 or 15k for a HZJ73.
- With the LJ, it looks like it would be a great little project - just budget 6 to 10 k for a good motor/tranny swap. And once done, it will have less "value" on the open market than it does now.

A student on a budget should be running away from those "deals", and looking for a Echo/Yaris/Civic/Corolla.. And DON"T get a VW!

My dad gave me the same advice back in the '70's when I bought a Triumph to drive to college. I of course ignored his advise because I was a "lot smarter" than him. ;)
It is amazing how much "reflecting" you can do while you stand beside your vehicle awaiting the arrival of the tow truck. :D
 

Thanks for posting that link.

In regard to the comments on the 2lte engine in the LJ71. The 2lte can be made into a half decent engine with a number of modifications and improvements. Having done these modifications, I'd say that for most owners who cannot do their own work, it is not worth owning a 2lte powered cruiser. Especially a student who could be faced with some hefty bills!

I've improved my LJ78 2lte to the point that I can tow 2500lbs+ though, and I'm quite happy with the power. Never had any overheating or head problems yet...
 
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I have been looking for a 70 for my brother which is probably the same age as you and he is the student as well. 70 series are for sure a cool and rare trucks.

I came to the conclusion that finding rust free BJ70 is impossible, as salt on our roads does a good job melting snow and corroding metals. The one i have seen will require a full frame of restoration in order to keep them on a road for a years to come.

Rust is expensive to repair, so dont waist your money on ON landcruiser. Save up and get one from rust free province like BC, but i will stay from LJ too as to known problems.

If your serious about owning a 70 series in Ontario you should talk to this guy.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/other-vehicles/611429-1991-hzj73zx-5m-locked-built-clean-15-000-a.html

I would look into insurance though as apparently in Ontario its harder to get insurance now. Talk to guys like Crushers and Peter and get their advice. There are threads on the forum with info.

A student on a budget should be running away from those "deals", and looking for a Echo/Yaris/Civic/Corolla.. And DON"T get a VW!

Nothing wrong with a VW the old diesels are reliable as hell its just the car and all the gizmos around the engine that get gremlins.

Cruisers are costly if you want to maintain them properly. Ask just about every owner on this forum.
 
I'm a little late to the party but here are my 2 cents.

Any Ontario BJ70 with "fresh" looking paint and rust bubbles = a cover up. That rig has serious bad bondo and the passenger rear quarter looks really soft. Ask him to safety it.

i have a '86 BJ form Ontario that was religiously rust checked and oiled, and I still have frame rot and driver floor holes.

People say land cruisers run forever, but nothing mechanically does. It's all about the maintenance. Mine is low k's and it still needs a ton of dough because it's 25 years old. Parts are rare and expensive.

Plus they're slow as s***, which may help you avoid tickets. Don't think you'll by the BJ70 and not have to put a dime into it for 500,000 more km.
 
Thanks for your insight everyone. I appreciate it! I will keep you posted and start a new thread after I purchase my very own LC. I am prepared to put $ into one and be consistent with up keep and maintenance. Now that I have the Land Cruiser bug I can't shake it!
 
Was the LJ70 with 3.0lt tubro K series engine from 1994 onwards sold in Canada? Good reliable truck.
 
See you got one.....LJ79. Feck....just read about what happened to green. Tough luck.
 
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They're Mickey Thomson Thompson Classic II's that haven't been polished in a while.
 
I got to disagree, if you notice in the pics the material is quite thick around the modular openings. I would say those are cast aluminium not chrome steelies

Yes, you are right. They do look like the Mickey Thompsons also, after having another look....
 
Thanks for your insight everyone. I appreciate it! I will keep you posted and start a new thread after I purchase my very own LC. I am prepared to put $ into one and be consistent with up keep and maintenance. Now that I have the Land Cruiser bug I can't shake it!

My advice is always to start with the best rust free body you can find.
Bad mechanicals are a better certainty of being repaired to last.
I would rather spend $5k on engine rebuilds than paint/rust repairs
 
My advice is always to start with the best rust free body you can find.
Bad mechanicals are a better certainty of being repaired to last.
I would rather spend $5k on engine rebuilds than paint/rust repairs

To be perfectly honest, my advice is to find a rust free sidekick and throw on some 31's and a rear locker. Run the hell out of it until you're done school and get a job, then buy a cruiser. You don't want to end up deciding between paying tuition and rebuilding an injection pump, which alone will cost about the same as the tracker.
 
To be perfectly honest, my advice is to find a rust free sidekick and throw on some 31's and a rear locker. Run the **** out of it until you're done school and get a job, then buy a cruiser. You don't want to end up deciding between paying tuition and rebuilding an injection pump, which alone will cost about the same as the tracker.

Very good advice.

You could also look for a third gen 4-runner (96-01 I think). They are getting quite affordable these days, and are a solid and capable rig. Both the 2.7 and 3.4 are very solid engines. Get a manual shift with rear diff lock if you can find one. 2.7 is great on gas.
 

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